The Real Future Wax: opinions, trials, pain and suffering

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

First, I’ve come back to modeling after a long break, and I do not claim to have the professional experience or all of the absolute answers. But after building about 5 models recently, I feel that the complete mess that ive gone through on the last couple of cases needs comment. I’m sure that many will disagree.

I realize that there are many tools of the trade that are OMG worthy: Bare Metal, Alclad, PE, etc. Future wax is NOT one of them. My education concerning Future has gone through Swanny’s publication, FSM articles, etc, etc, etc. It’s benefits include protection, sealant, anti-silvering of decals and more. As for me, Future is for one thing and one thing only: dipping canopies and clear parts in and placing them on a piece of paper towel and letting it sit until it goes on the model.

I have airbrushed future on each model before and after decaling in hopes of achieving that “candy coated” mirror like shine, especially to scale cars. After spending an hour or more stripping the future from my Mustang I am done with it. I had a great shine on a lacquer coat and then came the Future. “Oh yeah, this is gonna really make this shine mile deep” , I thought. Oh no. Please know, as we say in surgery, the enemy of good is better. after giving it a 48 hr dry time I came back to it only to wonder “where the f%^% did the shine go???!!?” Well, it was underneath the future coat. this has happened on 3 cars since March. I don’t care if you airbrush it at 40 , 20, 10, or 0 psi, all I can say is good luck.

What is the true miracle compound? Windex, because it strips future. Yes , future is great on clear parts. If you have an enamel or lacquer that looks perfect, LEAVE IT PERFECT. Use MicroSol for decals, it deals with silvering just fine.

From now on my method for autos will be Testors One-Coat( although it takes about 5) Lacquer and Wet Look Clear at the end if you want to take it above the bar.

Hope I didn’t offend Future die-hards too badly. And I’m probably doing something wrong but this has been my experience.

Thanks

2

I was not at all impressed with Future after using it to dip clear parts. After removing my mask I found a sticky mess with impressions from the texture of the Tamiya tape embedded in the parts. I don’t know if I let the Future dry long enough, but I would hope the 48 hours I did give it would have been sufficient.

Using Future as an intermediary coat for applying decals has always worked well for me though. I used to not be too satisfied with the result but after backing the PSI down to around 12 it works great. Micro-Sol has not been effective for me without the use of Future under and over the decals. I agree that Future does not leave a desirable final gloss coat that would be acceptable to me on a car model. However, as I finish all my aircraft and tanks with a coat of Micro-Flat this isn’t a problem. If I was looking for a polished gloss finish for something like a Ferrari Future would be unacceptable. Even spaying at low pressure it’s too grainy. I don’t know if a light sanding with some super fine grit would help, but I have no intentions of finding out. My modeling subjects don’t require that sort of finish.

I hope you are able to find a method/technique that does satisfy you. I struggle with trying to adapt tips and methods that other people seem to have great results with only to become annoyed that it doesn’t work as advertised.

3

You dipped the part in the Future after you masked it? You’re supposed to dip it before you mask it. You did in fact let it dry enough but the tape soaks up the future and leaves an impression on the canopy.

4

My problem with the stuff is this. I used to wax my cars with it . Now all it seems to want to do is " FISHEYE " on all the surfaces I put it on.So I now use for floors . tankerbuilder P.S. it,s almost like they DID change the formula ?

5

I agree, Future is for floors and maybe dipping canopies. I have found it leaves a blotchy, uneven shine if applied as a final coat to a model. Hand brushed, air brushed, whatever, I have never been pleased with the results. Testor’s clear lacquer in a rattle can works fine for me.

6

I use a bunch of very light coats and get good results.

7

Future is great for clear parts. It is also great for floors. Beyond that, I agree with the majority here. [bnghead]

8

I too have had Future tribulations…heh.

Went back to the Testors rattle can. I just can’t seem to get Future to airbrush well for me. Must be a genetic skill [:D]

9

Never had an issue with it and mixed with tamyia flat makes a great final coat.

10

When I dip canopies in future, I put it in a container for at least 2 weeks before I will even touch it again with a tweezer much less mask it. 48 hours is not nearly enough time to mess with a part DIPPED in future.

I apply future by making a run from 4 different directions of the model then letting it sit for 5 minutes. Then I coat again, let it sit for 5 minutes and do it again. Sometimes I will take a hair dryer to it in order to reactivate it a bit to level it out more once I’ve done my 3 coats. Then I recoat after 8 hours. It usually takes at least 2-3 sessions for the surface to be smooth enough for decals. When I do a plane I have to of course flip it over, so the pre-decal coatings are a total of 4-6 sessions with another 2-4 sessions after decaling. Then I wait 24-48 hours and hit it with a clear flat lacquer and call it good. I usually put the future on at around 20 or so PSI.

Future is a true wonder weapon. You can make clear parts much better, mix with talcum powder to form a sandable filler, and you can brush it on really heavy/multiple coats and wetsand it to use as a surfacer.