Ok guys, my bad.
Make sure when you enter the code that you hit the box on the right. [:-^]
I need more coffee.
Well I found a wet Q tip will remove the powder from clear parts if you don’t want them aluminium.
As long as you don’t buff it in, you can remove the powder from everything; clear parts, decals, etc… It’s the buffing that sets it in place. I don’t know if it’s the heat or what, but until it’s buffed, it’s a fairly easy cleanup.
-Fred
OK Gerald. Sent in my order. I already have some of your powders, but looks like I`ll be needing more…Harv
For me there are some days when there isn’t enough coffee![swg]
I want to see what happens when it’s applied over a filled seam. Does the seam show/look different?
My working theory is that if you filled and sanded the seam correctly, it will be unnoticeable.
But, having said that, tonight I’ll see if I have any two parts I can glue together that I know aren’t supposed to have seams and take it from there.
Being able to apply the NMF before assembly really speeds the process. I’d be further along but I’m waiting on Squadron to see if they can find me a particualr PE set for the cockpit.
-Fred
Holey crap!!! Ten dollars for shipping!!! That cant be right!..
SnJ Spray Metals and Polishing Powders are consider hazardous materials due to their flammable nature, so they must ship via ground carrier such as UPS. Contact me if you have further questions regarding shipping to your specific destination.
I just sent an email before I saw this. And after thinking about it, hazmat makes sense. Is pm good for you?
This has been a great thread! I’ve been trying to sort out the diferences, pros/cons, etc of the various products on Hawkeye’s web site and have come up with some questions:
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What are the differences and advantages of the acrylic sprays vs. the enamel sprays?
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Does using the sprays eliminate the need for the buffing?
Thanks!
OK, I found A drop tank that’s supposed to be seamless and I’m working on getting some results now.
I glued the two halves together and sanded the seams. On one side of the tank, I just applied the powder. The seam is visible - but in all fairness, I didn’t sand the seam until it was completely invisible. On the other side of the tank, I applied some squadron white putty. I’m waiting for it to cure, so I won’t have definite results on that till tomorrow.
-Fred
The acrylic smells a whole lot nicer [tup] and has a slghtly glossier finish…sort of a self clear coating finish that is hard and durable. The SnJ (enamel) will bind to just about anything. Including glass for those who are artsy fartsy. Here is a wine bottle being antiqued for use as a vase.
Using the polishing powders is strickly optional. But it is a way to get a polished metal appearance.
Did you get my reply to your email gerald?
I love that last pic you put up, you can REALLY see the contrast between each method!!! Man I want this powder!
Ok, my lateat rounds of tests pretty much proved what I had thought. If you fill and sand the seam carefully, you make two pieces look like one solid piece once the powder is applied.
-Fred
I’ve been using the same technique for a number of years. SnJ Aluminum powder over Model Master Gloss Black. Works every time. If you need to fill seams with Tamiya putty, then apply a couple of light coats of super glue, sand smooth then apply the paint and powder.
For more NMF see my website http://www.barneysairforce.com/
Wow, that mustang look’s hot! I cant wait to get the powder, I’ll put the B-17off ton the side for a while. I’ve got a tamiya zeke I can try the powder out on. I’ll do overall NMF with a mottled IJN green on the upper surfaces. I’d like to do a T-6 as well, but I gotta find one first.
Do you know what this powder looks like over regular acrylic flat aluminum? Just make it shinier?
I haven’t tried SnJ Aluminum powder on any acrylics yet but it works just great on any enamel or lacquer base coat…including Alclad.
Here’s my 1:48 C-47 VIP transport…work-in-progress.
Also, what do you buff the powder with?