I’m thrilled to know that you may sort out whatever mistakes you might have made in making your tracks!
Be aware that the tracks can stay flexible for up to an hour or more–it all depends on what kind of glue you use and how much of it you use. You definitely want to wait for them to become melted together from the glue, and to start hardening.
Quick glue like Tenax R7 will naturally cause the tracks to become stiffer faster. If you do this technique for the first time with a different glue than Testors’. check back every 15 minutes or so and gauge the pliability of the tack length. Depending on the strength of the glue, you may be able to put them on after a half-hour.
The most important thing is to leave them on for a day or more so that they don’t shrink! Even a millimeter of two can make it frustrating to put the tracks back on or make them want to pull apart at some point. [:)]
Very nice tutorial, Karl! My main artist “AI” also uses similar method to construct the tracks. He also uses slow-setting cement, a chloroform based one.
Aw dang Karl, now I dont have an excuse to stay away from indy tracks anymore, why do you have to go and be so helpful all the time?!
All kidding aside after reading this I will have to try my hand at. Unfortunately Ive been able to make do with vinyl tracks for the past 5 years by only getting certain kits (tamiya) but that really limits the choices of models you can build…anyways keep up the good work as always
Thanks for the nice words! That’s the greatest compliment that you can give—to know that something I posted may help you to expand your own modeling skills and potential!!
Guys like you were exactly the kind of guys I was targeting with this tutorial----guys who steered away from some of these great kits because they were intimidated by indy track links. Once you get the process down, yyour enjoyment—and your stash [;)] --will expand exponentially because there willl be nothing that you can’t build! [:D]
do what i do build warwheels and trucks. they are different builds than tracks, at least until the upper hull.
seriously i have a PZ-IIC w/ length and link and a JGSDF TYPE 87 SPAA with indy tracks (no support rollers but the technique will still work) i will be using this for in between wheels builds
Wayne, you’re absolutely right–this technique works well for just about any tank. With a little creativity, you could even use it for a Sherman. I hope your tracks turn out great!
Unfortunately I didn’t read it until I had glued all the running gear together, but I’ve been able to work the tracks around the sprocket and wheels fine.
Thanks for the “thanks”, G! Honestly, I appreciate hearing that it has helped you, or any other modelers. [:)]
Given the realism of indy links over those durned “rubber bands” that have sadly seemed to be making a comeback, it makes me feel like this post is hopefully contributing to more modelers not being scared of them. I honestly feel like this is what led to the invention of those “DS” tracks that I despise so much. Maybe if more modelers don’t shrink from doing indy tracks it might lead to more use of them over the DS alternative–at least that’s my hope! [whstl]…[:D]
Karl, thanks for putting this together! I’m on my second armor build and I would much rather use the individual tracks instead of the “rubber bands” and this tutorial was very helpful in showing me how to assemble them.
