Hi all!
How do you guys rescribe the panel lines on that old kits with raised lines?
I am trying but my results were not good…I tried with a scalpel, a dental tool and with a pin attached to my pin vise…
First I use the old lines as guides, after I sand the old lines and on the same moment try to clean the new lines from the plastic residues…Am I doing right?
I’ve found the best scriber you can buy off the shelf is the one made by Bare Metal. They are pricey for what you get, but both the scriber and the adze are both good, rugged tools designed specifically for models. In fact, I wish I had them now, but I lost them and haven’t replaced them, so I’m using a variety of dental tools (1.50 each at my local hardware store) and carbon-tipped scribers such as carpenters use for fine work. Neither are really satisfactory, because the scribed lines require too much cleaning up.
Tom
The scriber from Bare Metal is one of my favorite scribing tools. There is also a double ended version of the tool available from Micro Mark. Both work very well.
Regards, Rick
How do you do for the circular or rounded panels?
Verlinden makes a special scribing template that has circles & oval shapes as well as rectangles with both sharp & rounded corners. It’s available in both 1/48 & 1/72 scales. A little expensive, but very useful if you are going to rescribe many older kits or need to replace lost detail.
Regards, Rick
Thanks for the tips Tom, Hector and Rick.
That Bare Metal Scriber looks like a dental tool I am trying to use…
And the rivets? How do you do to replace them?
also to rescribe circles or ovals you might want to try an drafting templet used on mechanical drawings the best place to fine these would be Hobby Lobby or a local art store, and they are alot less expensive then the Verlinden but just effective and they have more different sizes in circles, ovals, even squares then the Verlindens
How do you rescribe rivet details in 1/72?
Recessed rivet detail can be reproduced with pin, needle, and sometimes, nails, depending on the scale. Get several different sizes of the above mentioned and try them out on some scrap plastic to see which one give the most appropriate sized indentation. I
Raised rivet detail is more difficult. Again using needles or pins, a drop of a thick glue can be applied but it takes practice to get the right size.
It’s keeping the alignment consistent that’s the really hard part for both methods.
I’ve got an unorthodox method for scribing lines which may be appealing to some. You can check it out HERE.
Fade to Black…
Never seen this type of approach before…Very interesting…Maybe I should try…
I have just received a set for scribing from Hasewaga - Tritool as well as compound curves template, bought it from HLJ and work very nice, the scribing set is a series of mini saws in different patterns to be used in flat and rounded surfaces, the curves template are series of arcs or semi-circles and you can adjusted to shape of the fuselage and so on.
Give them a try, I hope it helps.
hey mhsuzuki;
well everyone has their own way to rescribe panel lines, I use Squadrons Rescriber, an Exacto Knife w/ #11 Blade, a Pine Vise w/ a Sewing Machine Needle (they are less likely to dull & harder to bend or break), a Machinists 12" & 6" (also I cut down a 6" to 2 3" rules) Steel Rule, a few rolls of Embosing Tape, a Drafting Circle Templet, a Drafting Oval Templet, and a Drafting Square Templet( the templets are less expensive then the Verlinden Templets and have far more sizes then them too), after I pre-scribe the panel lines (I use the Exacto knife first) then I follow up with the Squadrons Scriber, after the lines are done I sand the part with 320 to 1500 grit paper or up to 2500 if doing BMF, then I wash the part and let dry over night, then assemble the kit as directed, I use the tape for panel line going over seams, and the templets for small access panels like fuel doors and external power receptal doors, and for circled or oval panels on wing & fuselages, and if you mess up a line use Super Glue and Polish it right after you apply the SG
HAVE FUN AND REMEMBER TO RELAX AND TAKE YOUR TIME
A company called Olfa make two scribers. One is a blade in a handle which you pull towards you against a straight edge and the blade removes a ‘V’ shaped line. It is much easier to use that a scalpel and it does not leave raised plastic along the edges of the cut line, making it much easier to clean up. Press lightly for a shallow line, press harder or use multiple passes for a deeper line. The company also makes a cutter which will cut circles. It is adjustable and will cut any size you are likely to need for an aircraft. Hope this helps.
Because of I live in the developing country I have not much equipment in here. I always use the fret (I don’t know the technical term) of PE. After used the PE you have the empty frame. I bend that frame on the curve of model and used the pin from super glue (It’s enclosed with the super glue package for make the hole) attach w/ the pin vise to make the new panel line. Some models have a bad raised panel line. I touched with the 1200 grit sand paper and make the shadow line with carbon (HB pencil) wipe across the old line and write the new panel with pin. I’m doing the new panel line for my F-5E 1/32 scale of Hasegawa but not done it yet.
I have tried several techniques deSCRIBED in this tread. I personaly had the best results using a boxcutter (i think that’s the correct word) A plain simpel boxcutter made by stanley, because of it’s weight it wil stay in a straight line when you scribe. It therefore gives you a lot of control. Obviously this knive wil only work for straight lines and the lines need to bee sanded after scribing.
For curves and areas wich aren’t flat, I often use a embossing scribing tool. I find these type of tools (I have tried several differnt scribing tools) more difficult to use. Because of there weight and size, they offer less controle.
I also find a 0.5mm pencil a good tool for this - many a/c I have seen have very indistinct panel lines which from a scale distance are almost indiscernable on a model. The lead can leave a bit of a gloss but this can easily be duled by matt varnish.
Colin Russell - as a matter of interest what is the tool that you use from Olfa - I have looked at their web site and cannot see anything obviously fitting your description.
In addition to the techniques described in the other posts, another trick that works wonders is to brush a bit of liquid cement (Tamiya or Testors works for me) into the scribed line, let dry and then sand. This pervents the raised ridge on either side from being pushed back into the line and makes cleaning out the sanding swarf much easier.
HTH,
Tony