It seems to me, that almost everyplace where metal rubs metal on an AFV, becomes shiny. Right? Makes some sense.
Ok, now here is my question. On a tank with steel wheels-german AFVs, KV1s and all steel tracks, wouldn’t the constant motion of the road wheels over the tracks cause the tracks to have a trail of polished metal on them? I understand that metal rusts; but a constant burnishing would keep them kleen and shiny. Am I just going crazy? Are there any photos?
You’re right. And it also gets frequently modeled. Maybe look a little closer? I know Mig Jimenez discusses it in his FAQ book. Go down the length of the inner track with some graphite.
Agree, it does get replicated this way; however, it isn’t made to look like chrome or silver, more of a graphite color, which I feel is more realistic as the track would also be contending with dirt and dust, etc. while traversing the ground…
I can not say I have seen tank tracks in use. But as a former Hvy Mine Mechanic I have seen the treads, sporckets and rollers on all kinds of different tracked equipment. These areas of contact were always shiney and almost mirror polished in the best and worst of conditions. Dust would not even adhere as there was no static on the contact surface. I use a steel / grey color to replicate this as the chrome look, even if correct looks out of place.
My own experiance with tracks is from M113 series vehicles that I served on. The central guide teeth of the track were fairly bright and free of any rust, dust, mud, etc. The same with the steel portion of the track that comes in contact with the idler wheel and sprocket teeth. The outboard portion of the inner face of the track was a dull steel color. When the vehicle sat still for more than a day or so, the tracks would get a light bright coat of rust. As soon as the vehicle was moved any distance over say 100yds or so, the rust wore off. The outer facing portion of the track shoes were again the dull steel color but were often coated with dust, mud, foliage debris, etc. The cleat portion that directly contacted the ground was a less bright bare ground steel. Track pads-the rubber portion of the shoe, were a dark grey with many gouges from rocks, etc.
The inner faces of road wheels where track guide teeth make contact, the portion of the idler wheel in direct contact with the track, and the portions of the drive sprocket that contacted the tracks were bare metal. The idler wheel rim that contacted the steel portion of the tracks was fairly bright and smooth polished looking. The other areas that were rubbed bare were more of a ground/scraped bare steel color.
I consistently model them that way–that’s why I don’t paint the whole model with the tracks on it as you can’t really effectively cover the whole tracks. I thin some metallic steel paint, and sort of scrub down the insides where the wheels contact, and then DB the guide horns. And on many tanks, like Panthers, don’t forget the inner races of the inner wheels where they contact the guide horns as well; they are bright silver as well.
You can see it here; note the horns and the inside race:
I forgot one other area of wear… the lower hull area adjacent to the upper tracks. It was usually scraped clean of paint by debris and the tracks scraping againt the hull sides on occasion. Not really noticeable under field conditions because of mud, dust, and dirt, but after return from the wash rack and sitting in the motor pool, they bare areas stand out.
Doog- that Tiger nailed the look of the inner side of tracks.
