Thought I would share the latest “hot iron” zim application on this Tamiya T2 currently on the bench.
Step 1: “Scale” the pattern by drawing the vertical spacing (2.5 - 3.0 mils) on the model with a straight edge and an automatic pencil:
Step 2: Begin by “drawing” in the pattern , keeping the iron at 30 degrees and drawing backward, keeping between the index lines:
Step 3: Reduce the tip angle to detail complex angles, radaii,and tight spots. Molding details such as tool mounting holes etc. can be worked around and left intact:
The best thing? A $10.00 soldering gun beats $30.00 worth of resin or PE zim anyday, and is always ready to go for the next kit.
Try it boys, it is as easy as drawing a line with a pencil, it is very forgiving, and above all EASY!
That looks really nice Crockett. I don’t think I’d have the guts to do that though, with my luck I’d end up with a pool of red-hot liquid magma. [oops]
Looks great Steve. Wish I had your time and patience though. One thing about it that I see, is that there isn’t much room for error. That is different than I saw it being done, figuring you gently press is flush, rather than “draw” it on. Keep up the good work.
Thx Steve, this posting cleared my question marks!
Could this maybee go into sort of a static tips section Kalmbach?
Same as earlier postings about Friul and Karaya tracks assy and blackening?
Damn, that looks great. Have always been afraid to try this. Don’t want to end up with a warped, melted mess. Going to have to give it a try on some scrap.
Decals are no problem. I use Solvaset over zimmerit. Beware, this setting solution is “hotter” than micro sol/set products. First, I apply a nice brushed on coat of Future in the decal areas and let that set up for about a day. Then, decal as usual with careful application of Solvaset until the decals are soft enough to “press” into the zim grooves with a wet Q Tip.
The decals below were done using the method described and are the kit decals from Dragon:
By “drawing back” I simply mean use the hot iron by contacting the plastic surface and pulling backward, maintaining an approximate 30 degree angle. Once you have reached the boundary line, lift, and begin a new trough.