To those of you who followed my original StuG III B blog you’ll know that my Labrador chewed my 75% completed StuG to bits a few months back. It was coming on really well and I was GUTTED!
Anyway, I’ve got my replacement and all the tools and decals that hadn’t been used for the last one so some of you will get a sense of Deja-Vu as I build & blog StuG III B the second!
The dog has grown out of the ‘chewing’ stage but I won’t be taking any chances!
Today I’ve got the basics done, the wheels are assembled, I’m probably going to use the tools from my original build as they are all painted and look good. I’m going to try mounting the spare wheels on the rear deck using the mounts and am undecided about using the moulded tow cable or a spare piece of tow cable from a Dragon kit that I did use the cable on - probably the latter.
Tommorrow I’m going to assemble the gun and the casemate. Everything will be buttoned up except the single Periscope that comes out of the single small hatch - because of that I won’t be worrying about the interior; it will be present but not painted.
I’m going for a used and abused dry and dusty looking build with the Friuls which of course I have from the original attempt and some additional stowage too. I’m undecided on the markings yet.
Box art:
Supplied PE grills and metal gun barrel:
This is todays work except the tools which were from the last StuG:
Thanks for looking folks - I’m determined to make this a StuG to remember (for all the right reasons)!
I’m trying to get hold of some of the new MiG Panzer Grey Fading Pigment but I’m struggling to find anywhere in the UK that has it?
Cheers Wingy - I promise this one will actually make it to the finish line!
Just a quick update:
I had planned to get the casemate all assembled with hatches on but shortly after getting the gun assembled family came over so it will have to wait until next weekend. I’ve got next weekend to myself so I plan to get the basic assembly complete and make a start on the dreaded Friuls!
Anyway, the gun is assembled and looks good so that’s a start!
I actually did something a bit ‘inventive’ and lopped off the top of the Tamiya single Periscope which which is going to be the only thing poking out of a hatch (hence the reason I am not bothering with any interior detailing - more time to expend on the exterior). I replaced the top of it with a clear plastic periscope from my spares tub which was left over from my old Dragon Brummbar I think. It has the face pre-drilled with a rounded lens unlike the Tamiya one which has a flat face and at best would need drilling out.
Sorry I haven’t got more to show you but weekends aside we have two Holiday weekends coming up (Easter and another one) so that’s four additional days off work and four days extra build time!
Here’s where I am so far - the spare wheels are not yet fixed in place btw:
This WIP update is the work that I did yesterday afternoon - I’ll post a further update later when I’m finished today. I’ve got the work laptop and am working from home until 2pm on the emergency phone so won’t be starting on the build today until later.
Yesterday was basically a ‘get the basic build ready for paint’ day! I was 75% there but needed to assemble and fit the casemate, the antennae holder, various lights and siren and some wiring detail. This all got primed and left overnight ready for the basecoat to be air brushed on today.
Here she is so far:
I used some lead wire to show some wiring going to the siren, light and front headlight. I drilled a small hole at the rear of the base of each headlight to push the wire into.I’ve just noticed that wonky light so I’ll have to sort that:
The replacement Dragon Periscope - the Tamiya kit version just had a flat face and no lens detail:
Spare wheel mounts:
Side view - I’ve put Blu-Tack on the wheel inserts to ensure there is a clean, paint free contact area for when I glue the road wheels on:
So far she’s looking quite tidy and definately an improvement on my first attempt (the one the dog chewed up) so fingers x’d she’ll come good.
The plan for the rest of today is to simply get the basecoat on and make a start on the Friuls.
I hope you like her - thanks for looking chaps [Y]
I’m making steady progress now. The basecoat is down and in the flesh it looks superb (The photos don’t quite look as good - the grey looks a bit too bright in the photos).
I’m going for a faded finish and heavily weathered so I decided I’d have a mess about with my greys and see what I could do.
I used about 6 parts German Grey (XF-63), 3 parts Dark Sea Grey (XF-54) and 1 part Flat White - this colour should work really well with the washes and when it darkens after weathering it should look very nice. I’m very pleased with the Dark Sea Grey - I didn’t even know I had it until today!
I’m going to sit down with my dinner and a DVD soon so this is where I’ll be leaving things - with the Easter weekend upon us and 4 days to play with by this time next week I’d at least like to have the decals on, the tools painted and the Friuls assembled ready for some serious weathering.
As for markings I’m either going for the 192nd StuGAbt (Poland, '41) or the 191st StuGAbt (Greece '41). The first option is the often seen ‘Skull & Bones’ which although it looks cool it has been done to death so I’m undecided as yet.
Thanks for looking guys!
I feel a lot better now the basecoat is on. This is the EXACT point that I got to last time when my last StuG III B was chomped by the dog so this is staying safely out of reach!
I’m happier with the colour too - looking back I can now see that the last one was too blue and an overspray would probably have been needed. I’m very happy with this one. I’ve got all my tools from last time; they are painted but now I have some Metallizer paints for tool heads and Vallejo Wood colours for handles I’m going to tart them up a bit. The pre-moulded tow cable is not being used - I’m going to have a run of cable laid straight down the fender with the tools. The pre-moulded cable looks too neat and tidy imo!
Looking great buddy! I should have wired the lights on my StuG B… was still new at the hobby. You have gone further more than I have and it is looking real good. Did you do pre-shading or are you planning to do post-shading this time?
You’re moving right along with this one Ben, making up for lost time for sure. [B] Also neat to see you adding more details like the headlight wiring, it’s a step up in your building efforts in terms of attention to detail. [Y]
Sorry I didn’t reply yesterday but I’ve got a throat infection and feel super terrible so this is the first time I’ve been back on the site since Sunday!
Andy: Funnily enough I tried a pre shade with my first attempt at the basecoat and it worked well but the basecoat was waaaay too light so I had to add a dash more XF-63 to darken it up and obviously obliterated the pre-shade in the re application as per usual - I’ll get there eventually [00ps] I sent you a pm re post shading/fading?
My question was as I’m building a StuG I have lot’s of big grey square panels and would like to highlight the centres of the panels? How do I do this - I assume with an AB? How is the paint best prepared and applied? I can see it now - a big slodge of colour in the middle of the panel! I can see the theory behind this method but how do I apply the fading? If anyone can give me any guidance re this method I’ll be very greatful as I’d love to give it a try!
The photos are a fairly good representation of the shade I settled on but the photo lighting made the paintwork appear a bit brighter than it actually is so bear that in mind.
I could have been lazy and just loaded the cup up with Panzer Grey and be done with it but I want to experiment and see what I can do. If it all fails a dark Paynes Grey wash will sort it [whstl]
Last night I found the recent copy of a particularly expensive magazine (I don’t want to name it and get into trouble) and there was an article where a chap built a large scale 38(t) and his basecoat was very similar to mine. He used Paynes grey and a stack of different washes & pigments to obtain a great effect so I’m going to be roughly sticking to his build & weathering method now.
I had a look through my stocks and found a full bottle of ‘Pro Modeller Black Wash’ that you put on with a sponge or kitchen paper towel and then remove any excess with another paper towel (damp or dry). I tried it on the underside where there is some rivet, panel line detail and large flat areas and it worked AMAZINGLY! It really popped the lines and rivet detail and turned the lighter colour basecoat to something far more realistic and it actually had a more ‘natural’ appearance to it.
The ‘Pro Modeller’ is a British chap who pops up at a lot of shows and has a lot of helpful stuff on You Tube.
I build this Stug about a year ago and I really like your basecoat, mine got a lot darker after weathering. Wiring the headlight is a very nice touch along with the new periscope.
Are you planning on any stowage on the engine deck? I was looking at this last night thinking it is such an open space, it needs something on it. But if you weather it nicely, you might not want to cover it up.
I did this center panel shading on my last tank. I added a few drops of Buff to the basecoat and just carefully sprayed it, starting in the center and working out. I had the airbrush needle barely open and used about 10 psi.
Keep up the good work and buy a bone for that puppy. Our new puppy chewed up a couple fuel cans on my last build, so I know who you feel.
I agree with iraqiwildman. If pre-shading method didn’t come out good, then you can always go for post-shading option by just adding just very little buff or tan to Grey Panzer whatever you were using. It worked on my Panzer I especially around the open space area.
Righto, I want to post shade it but obviously having never done this before I’m a bit apprehensive about doing it and screwing my build up.
Perhaps someone can provide a little step-by-step guide so I know I’m doing things right. I haven’t got big enough boys bits to go and try this out and hope for the best at the minute, especially after recent disasters but I really want to learn and give this a go.
Perhaps a simple bullet point instruction list?
Please, indulge me! Show me the true meaning of the force!
Seeing as it’s the Easter weekend and the weather is stunningly hot for April in England it would be very rude of me not to carry on with work on my StuG!
It’s been looking at me from behind the glass in my cabinet all week and I’ve been trying to convince myself that the basecoat was fine but all along I really knew that it wasn’t right and I wasn’t 100% happy with it so…I added a chunk of XF-63 German Grey to my original basecoat colour and decided to re-paint her.
Nothing special, just a few shades darker really. I really, REALLY wanted to get this pre-shade thing to work and have tried so many times that I was DETERMINED to get it right today - and I think I have? For the first time in over a year of trying it’s actually worked, properly!
So, I now have a far better and much more visually acceptable Panzer Grey coloured StuG and nice, visible pre-shade lines.
Due to my air brush not being top of the range the trigger has to worked with caution - a push a tad to far shoots too much air out and a couple of the black lines ‘splodged’ a bit. I didn’t think that it would be an issue but these two splodgy lines showed up under the basecoat a little bit. Luckily they are not too bad at all and are in a place on the rear flat deck where I’m planning to have a tarp or Swastika air signal flag so they’ll be covered anyway.
Let me know what you think guys - personally I’m soooo pleased that I’ve finally got this right! I know what psi setting to use now and exactly the type of spray needed - just next time remove any splodges straight away!
I’m leaving her to fully cure overnight and will carry on with decals etc. I’m off to start the Friuls now!
Pre-shade lines in place:
Looking much better now:
Thanks for looking guys - I’d love to hear any comments and helpful suggestions on making this build one of my best!
Looking good I have this kit that I picked up at Hobby Lobby for about $12 I think, on clearance. I will be following your build to get some hints and tips
Yes, your pre-shading tunred out really good.[:)] I like the lighter color basecoat, since it will darken during weathering. Are you going to try highlighting the center of the panels?
I would go with a big flag on the engine deck. I think the red and white on the flag would really look cool with all this gray. You can buy them, download one or paint your own on tissue.
Keep up the good work and keep it away from that puppy. Happy Easter.
