This is my first armor model I built in a very long time. It is straight OOB, and weathered with chalk pastels. The paint is Lifecolour acrilycs. This was done before I was a member of this wonderful, but crazy forum. I would like to hear what you guys have to say, even the good, the bad, and the ugly. All in the name to make me a better modeller.[:D][:-,][}:)]
Thanks for posting your model Supraman. I love Shermans and it’s always good to see them built up!
Firstly, I tend to be a stickler for form and function of a model. For instance, I always try to replicate the"how’s" and “why’s” of actual armor subjects. For instance, I think your choice of stowage placement isn’t very realistic. The tracks (very heavy) are magically glued onto sheet metal fenders, the jerry cans are precariously placed on the back end, and the knapsacks on the right turret wall are very apparently glued on rather than attached via their webbing. Same thing about the loose helmets.
Consider that this huge AFV bucked and churned all over various types of terrain – then you may want to reevaluate how “loose” items would have been stored. Consider it from the tank crewman’s point of view. Also you’d never emplace storage items that blocked your effectiveness (persicopes and lines of vision, turret and gun movement, tank mobility).
Hope these help.
If I can suggest, get Kalmbach Publishing’s “How to Build Realistic Tanks and Artillery” I think it’s a great primer for beginning armor builders – lots of easy tips and good photographic depiction of what to do and what to look for.
T26, thank you for your advice. This is why I posted here, to learn, and ignore what the assembly instructions tell you. Some of the “floaters” can be fixed with thread, but the tracks I will have to think about. As for the book, it is on my wish list.
Your basic assembly and painting appear to be pretty good.
In addition to what RC said, you should apply a layer of gloss before applying your decals then apply a layer of clear flat to blend them in.
Your track connectors and tools are way too silver. Choose Model Master metalizer Brurnt Iron or Burnt Metal for these. Much closer to lightly oxidized iron/steel.
The .50 caliber, Ma Deuce to it’s friends, should be very dark gunmetal or dark olive drab. There’s also a large mold seam along the receiver body that should be sanded smooth. Take a new #11 blade or use a fine drill bit in a pin vise and open a small hole in the center of the Ma Deuce’s barrel.
You have some nice dusty weaterhing on the glacis plate, but the dirt magically avoided getting on the star and numbers. Do your weathering after you apply decals so they look like they’ve been the same place as the rest of the vehicle. Carry this weathering to the hull behind the running gear.
Your track guides look too rusty for an active vehicle. While rust never sleeps, itgets polished off surfaces taht come into contact with other metal.
First I’d like to tell you that it looks great, you’ve got some good skills. However, what these fellows had told you is very useful advice. The only thing I would add to what they have said is to put a wash on your packs, this will liven the detail on the bags. You did do very well, we’re just sticklers for the small stuff.
You’re headed in the right direction. I will add that when you “do” remount those spare tracks, just make sure that the guide horns are pointed out. Steve
Yes, the Brits used racks and brackets when they mounted tracks horns down. I have seen US tanks with horns down, but it was more common to have them up.
Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and skills. ajlafleche, I see what you mean about the star, it does “shine bright”[;)]. though if you look carefully at the fifth picture, you will see that the dusting was applied after setting the decals. The lack of a flash filter just hightened the white. MortarMagnet, Darn I knew I forgot something.