Tamiya Marder III

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

I am looking for an aftermarket Aluminum barrel for my Tamiya Marder III, kit 35255. Any links would be excellent. Also I am looking at the Fruil ATL-13 Tracks but what I have read is is the stock idler is too narrow. Anyone else have this issue and any tips before I order the tracks :slight_smile:

Thanks

Jon

2

You will need to look for a Pak 36(r) barrel. Jordi Rubio makes one that also has a white metal muzzle brake but that’s the only one I know of off the top of my head that would be readily available but not part of a resin upgrade/interior set.

Can’t help you on the Fruils, but I know that when I built mine and replaced the tracks with MKs, the MK set included spaces for the Tamiya idlers to give them the right width (I ultimately just replaced the kit idlers with a set of MK idlers to keep things tidy). The Fruil set may, I emphasize may, also include replacement sprockets, but you would need to check to be sure before committing.

3

Thanks for the heads up on the barrel. I found this one for the barrel, it isays for a Marder II but listed as a PAK40 is this not the correct one?

http://www.internethobbies.com/jrr-25.html

The fruils do come with a sprocket but I will check into the MK’s

Thanks for the info.

4

Hi Jon

Sorry can’t answer the Friul question either. That barrel should work. The III M had the Pak 40 7.5cm gun. Voyager also make barrels for that gun with a choice of early, mid and late style muzzle breaks. VBS0102, 03 and 04 respectively.

A side note, I am working on the Dragon III M as we speak and in researching the gun found out that when the Pak 40 was put on a tank it was designated a Kwk 40. Seems a waste of time to me but I guess it was all that extra paperwork that help 'em lose the war.

A couple of weeks ago I found a Pak 40 sitting outside a VFW hall near me. Here are some ref pics I took.

5

That’s not the right barrel if you’re building the straight Marder III. The Marder III is a different from the III-M. The III-M had the PaK 40 just like the Marder II but the straight III had a rechambered Russian 76.2mm gun that is totally different and was designated the Pak 36 (r).

6

Jon,

You can use the Fruils with the stock sprocket and idler if you make spacers out of some styrene tubing of appropriate diameter. I think the spacers were about 1mm or so. Make sure you assemble your sprocket and idlers with spacers first, or you’ll have to do it the hard way like me, and splice spacers into the sprockets after you build the kit and realize the tracks don’t fit. D’oh!

Jeff

7

Thanks everyone for all the tips. I just started the chassis tonight.

Jon

8

I should have looked closer at the kit # in your original post. That kit number is the Marder III-M and the PaK 40 barrel is the one you want, not the Pak 36(r). [B]

9

Bill, you are right I have the Marder III M so the 40 is the right one. I found this one on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=190460136422&si=bj5dLxMyEdk56a2de5hCcrLUoJk%253D&viewitem=

10

I am going to start paining my Dunkelgelb but I wanted to try to use a technique of painting the base coat first then use a mask of sea salt before painting the top coat of Dunkelgelb then wipe it off to reveal chipping and such. What color would the base coat be? A primer red or a gray? I only use Tamiya acrylics so any mixes of color codes would be super helpful!!

11

If you need more width on your sprocket and idler you can make a spacer out of styrene. This is what I did for my Marder III 38(t)

Rob