Just thought I would post my tiger. This also has been my first venture with the dreaded zimmerit. Came out pretty good! Still got to put on the tow cables though. Ow well![8-)]
Very nice for a first attempt. It might be a little thick but by the looks of it I’m guessing it is in 1/72 scale which makes it even harder, but a very nice first attempt nonetheless. How did you do it?
I don’t think Tamiya do 72nd Armour kits do they. Is this 35th scale.
It does look a litle thick, but all in all a good first attempt. Are you putting any turret numbers on this. How come you added the cross keys insignia on the front.
Not bad,I stick with the molded on stuff,your camo and weathering also came out good
Great first attempt, all round a finish to be proud of, well done. Terry
I applaud your efforts. My first attempt was quite laughable and I haven’t tried it since. I have to agree with Blitzwing though, the zim is a tad thick. The rows should be about half as wide. It’s always advised to keep references handy. That being said, you do have the basics down and no doubt your next effort will be even better. [:)]
thx for the words, no there was no turret number on this tank. The number was 505 but it is simply known as the charging knight.
Thats odd, can’t say i have seen one of these without numbers. 505 was the unit, the 505 s Pz Abt. When the knight was applied this way the numbers were usually on the bottom end of the barrel. I only asked about the crossed keys because thats a different unit.
gjw, don’t let the kerfuffle about the turret numbers or insignia throw you or dissuade you—the first tanks I built were a Panzer Gray Leopard 1A3 and a grey Jagdpanther numbered “666” lol. The guys mean well, and are all good modelers who know a lot more than you might at this point about cerain details of a kit and tank that’s been around quite a while. You’ll get there too–to “caring” about numbers and insignia, etc. I didn’t really at the beginning. In fact, I’m kinda “meh?” about it now sometimes, too. [whstl]
Anyhoo—it’s a nice model for a first zimmerbaby. Zimmerit can be the bane of panzer modeling, and at least you tried it, even if it’s a tad out of scale. But still—you TRIED it, and that’s to be heartily commended. Next time, you’ll take into account the well-intentioned critiques, and make an even more accurate one. [:)] [Y] A nice model, all in all!
Definitely echo the others in commending you on attempting DIY zim! Always a challenge, what did you use for materials and methods out of curiosity?
The camo pattern looks good as do some of the other details. [Y]
HEAR-HEAR… !http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m606/MisaMeow/Kawaii%20Japanese%20Emoctions/9a616f74.gifor is it hear-hear, or there-there??
Whatever, it looks good for the level of experience you have.
!http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k27/pinkyandrexa/laurenstompsmily1.gifWe ALL have to start from somewhere.
Carry on…
ya i guess i screwed up on that 
i used epoxy putty green and a roller i found in the internals of a window shades [8-)]
!http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g439/exatera/smileys/smiley_perfect-1.gifThat particular brass roller is perfect for the turret zimm on the Tiger I.
Just make sure the zimm is about half as wide and a little bit more than paper thin.
Ya the epoxy was kinda bunched up in places, but hey in late 44 the krauts weren’t to concerned about consistency haha! Thx for the tip, someday i may make a late production Tiger
Thats about how my first attempt turned out as well.
A little adice: When you apply it , coat the epoxy putty with baby powder roll out the epoxy putty in paper thin sheets with a AA battery so it doesn’t stick when you use the roller on it. Just wet the backside so it’ll stick to the model surface. This helps preserve surface detail, its also easier to trim out areas that don’t need zimmerit like exhaust ports, etc. Get the zimmerit roller tools from either Trumpeter or AFV club you can do diff scales and diff patterns with them and they’re only about $12-15