Didn’t I already say that I didnt give a flying **** if it was accurate or not? I just wanted to build it
In that case, I would recommend a nice Midnight Blue, with a contrasting burgundy interior. Really would give it that nice post-Reconstruction look.
A nice umber/black/rust plaid on the seat fabric might be a nice choice too? But that might be a bit hard to paint?
Actually, Steven, if you are paying attention, you might actually learn something from these posts that people are taking the time to comment on, for a time when little things like accuracy might be of a concern to you. Just my [2c]
…wow…[sigh]
WOW, what’s with the hostility? People were just trying to help. And your response to the previous comments about track color sure do seem to suggest a least a passing interest in accuracy.
Temper, temper…
Steven,
My apologies for taking the thread slightly off course from your build, but you surely can realize that many people read threads for different reasons and that the corresponding discussion/commentary about the appropriate colors will be read by them as a result? It’s often how misinformation gets spread around, someone read it here or there, then it gets repeated, and so on. Even if you may not particularly care for your build, the topic of colors came up and, in the interest of insuring the advice/information presented that was posted was accurate I asked Mikey about his sources and the discussion progressed from there.
The “silent majority” of readers benefits from these types of discussion and, sometimes, this is how new information gets brought to light which is, after all, the purpose of a discussion forum like this. [;)] No one was trying to influence you one way or the other and you are of course free to do as you like with your build. No one’s trying to take that away from you or lessen your enjoyment of the hobby. If you interpreted anything posted in that way then I offer you my sincere apology for that.
I know, its quite alright, its just, honestly, I dont really care at this point if its the right shade of gray to me, gray is gray at this point. You dont even know if im using the right color or not because my camera doesnt do colors perfectly. I’m not doing it field gray, Im doing it dark gray.
But honestly, this whole THE COLOR MUST BE ACCURACTE Is the same thing to me as someone saying THAT BUILD SUCKS, THERE ARE 72 RIVETS ON A KING TIGER, NOT 73!! I honestly dont care. So many people say ‘dont worry what others say, build for your own enjoyment’ then so many others scream in reply ‘Thats not right! it was a slightly darker shade of gray then the one your using!’
Steven,
You may be blowing this all out of proportion. I haven’t seen anyone screaming at you or knocking your build. It was a mere tangent in the middle of your thread about colors. It’s kind of the point of posting WIP’s in that folks will try and point things out to help you. Otherwise, everyone would just post side pics of the finished product. I’m not trying to pile on, I just think that maybe you are reading a little too much into all of this. Enjoy your build.
Regards,
Jeff
Been meanin’ to ask you about this… What exactly is the problem with the figures? I’ve been using Tamiya figures for years and years, and these guys are no exception… They need some work if you’re going to use them in the kit poses, but overall, they turn out fine in a dio…
well you hackem, as is they just dont seem natural to me, and the faces look bad, atleast to me. But then, im used to the new tamiya figures and dragon ones.
Ah, gotcha… Yeah, they’re a little bland as far as expressions go… But then again, that’s not really a detractor in the overall scale of things, since you can’t really see what a figure’s face looks like at normal viewing distances… Folks around here and other forums, as well as in model mags, get used to high levels of detail because the photography make the figures so large… At 20-30 scale feet, it’s not an issue with me…
The really bad ones out there have parting lines running down the center of the face, and I’ve run across a few of those, but a head swap takes care of that… As for Dragon and newer Tamiya figs, they’re all pretty good, but still don’t come in useable poses 90% of the time, outside drivers and the like. The resin figures have incredible detail, but are just too expensive for me to be choppin’ up… But then again, I like some of 'em as is, but overall, I don’t want my figures looking like everyone else’s, you know, where viewers say, “Oh yeah, That guy’s from the Tamidrag Belchfire kit.”, or something like that…
As I see it modeling is a very personal hobby. We do this for enjoyment and nothing else. Some of us are very detail oriented, others not so. That’s what makes it so much fun and that’s how we learn from each other.
Smeagol build for yourself, do your thing, be happy with your accomplishments, learn from your mistakes and push yourself to do more.
Thats exactly what I am doing G. Sometimes, accuracy is good, like the bit about the bottom of the treads being black rubber, thats a good bit of info, and I’m glad I was told, but as to the exact tint of gray… I point you to this build up here /forums/1120266/ShowPost.aspx
Ugh that antiena thing broke off, again, Im so either gona replace it with wire, or just cut it completly off and sand the hole.
Hans, as far as the figures, I’m with you on useability, there are SO many kits out there with guys holding the rifles ready to fire, or standing around posing with them, even dragon kits, but so few that can be used. I like the panzer grenadier set they have with the one figure putting the AT hand held weapon, whatever it is, up to a tank, thats a nice figure, but so many are honestly unuseable like you said. 90% of green army men are in fighting poses, why not our models? (though, there is another figure I have, its a dragon one I got with a miniart building, its a german, russian front, soldier reloading his rifle, its a nice pose.
I just think there are to many good figures that are at rest… figures its hard to make a good dio of anything except that without hacking.
If you can get a hold of the voyager set of Width indicators you’ll thank yourself in the end the set comes with 4 indicator poles so you can actually do 2 models with 1 set. If you go with the wire method it should be the same dimension as the original piece and just use the original base and mirror and use super glue for the little balls on top.