The Orange Cap stuff also welds the plastic together…just doesn’t almost instantly evaporate like the green.
It looks like this never got sorted.
This is baffling, the orange cap stuff is about as fool proof as possible, and as MM66 said, I’ve never heard of it not working, either.
Are the parts resin by any chance? Or nylon or anything other than styrene?
Hi Greg!
Having Built this kit twice over the years,I can assure you there is no resin in this kit. However some Heller kits do take longer to react to some glues. I could NEVER get the Testors Tube Glue to stick on the first one. That’s when I discovered the Liquid Cements!
That said, I have come to the conclusion that Heller was NOT using Virgin Styrene. Even trace amounts of any other type in that chain would elicit a different reaction. I have also had that problem with some Imaii Kits!
I’m not sure if the OP is using the regular orange cap or the orange cap limonene. The regular orange cap, as I mentioned above, is 20ml and comes in a hexagonal jar. The limonene variety comes in a 40ml jar. If it is the limonene version, I can see it being not as strong (though I’ve never used it so I may be off-base)
On a related note, does anyone know if the 40ml white cap is the same cement as the 20ml orange cap?
a little off topic i think - but - whats good for resin parts?
Hey TB. That’s an informative post, might clear up many things.
I was going to mention that the Testors Orange cap is about as close to tube glue as I’ve seen, and I’m not sure I agree with some posts here that is is just a thick solvent. I think it is filler and solvent, designed to fill gaps. I never quite understood how tube glue works in the first place, so I’m just guessing.
I haven’t done a Heller kit since the 60’s, so any peculiarities in the plastic are lost to memory.
Again, good post, thanks.
The white gasket in the lid of the tamiya glues falls out of the lid alot with me,anybody else?
Ah, I looked up the limonene version and I see what you mean. Both 'orange caps. Thanks for elaborating, I understand your comment above better now.
I didn’t even know about the limonene version. Took two posts to get through my thick skull, but you made it. [t$t]
I’ve always heard CA or epoxy.
I like to use CA gel with resin, and Bob Smith’s IC-Gel is my preferred brand, FWIW. Nothing has fallen apart so far. Knock wood.
I don’t have as much experience with resin as others here, so maybe there will be better advice to follow.
If I may offer a clarification, both glues work by welding the pieces together. The difference between the two is in thickness.
The one is thin enough that you can hold two pieces together-fuselage halves, say-and use the applicator to flow the glue into that seam, where it melts the plastic and forms the weld.
The other is a little thicker, and won’t flow sufficiently, so you have to brush it on to the parts and then place them together. The glue still melts the plastic and forms a weld.
Best regards,
Brad
Ive got the Insta-Cure+ gap filling and Maxi-Cure extra thick and according to charlie at BSI, he says the Insta-Cure should work good. Havent tried it yet and called after you posted only bc i didnt need to get another tube of glue - yet ;). We’ll see.
I completely agree. Any CA will work, and those two will work great on resin.
The IC-Gel is a just a personal preference of mine for a few reasons.
mine sticks to the glass lip most of the times - not all though
question - ive used the orange cap one recently. worked good though i use mostly testors, may now say model master, in the triangular black bottle w/ the long nose…
The tamiya orange cap - i used it a little lately and ive noticed that once i brush it on, it starts to dry or evaporate almost immediately. Is this normal? Is it flashing off ?