I figured I would show something I’m working on for once, the zimmerit is from Eduard, I have the PE screens on their way, along with some tiger 1 resin radiators from tankwork shop, just too give a little life under those PE screens.
PE zimm is not the best, due to a couple of issues. All PE zimm tends to be barely visible (depth of ruts) after paint and weathering. Secondly, the seams and endlines need to be filled (putty) to eliminate the seams at the panel joins. I did one T2 with Verlinden and never again. Resin, hot knife or putty generally give better results
Although passable the level of definition is not comparable to the hot knife method
IMHO, investing in resin for your next build or home brewing your zimm will result in a much more realistic model at scale.
regards,
Steve
I’ve never thought PE zimm was a good idea, but I gotta say that I am impressed w/ how good Crocket’s looks once painted and the seams blended…I’d go w/ a resin set next time or scratch it…
Good to see an example of some of your work in progress LB! While PE zimm may not be for everyone, what you’ve done with it so far looks good. Keep us posted on your progress.
a picked up a couple sets of the Cavalier Zimmerit a few weeks back, and have yet to use it. Looks pretty good, and seems to scale fairly close. I also have several sets of the Eduard Zimmerit, and it also scales pretty close to what I saw at the Patton Museum (looked tobe about 10mm deep at the most). But I also noticed that the Eduard stuff is a little flat looking compaired to the real stuff, and maybe too regular looking. The real stuff was very uneven with lots of peaks (sorta like cake iceing). Anyway I bought some tools at the LHS to try on some scrap till I get the nack. I also have another idea in the back of my head to try, and that’s with an etcher (I have an air etcher). How well this works I wont say, but will once again try it on some scrap.
gary
The Cav and Aztek resin zimm sets are about as good as it gets in terms of realism w/o applying it yourself, IMO…be careful to try to match your zimm to those tanks with surviving zimm in museums—that zimm has typically been “burnished” down over the years to a much thinner and flatter appearance than it would have during the war…also, any zimm applied in a museum tends to be heavy-handed as well…Aves putty is probably the best medium for do it yourself, IMO…
Thanks guys, the only reason I’m using the PE zim is because I got it for free!! couldn’t pass that up.
Scratch this idea, I’m going to rip off the PE zim and add my own, after looking at the kit I realized it looks way out of scale compared to real zim, I ordered Tamiyas light curing putty, I’m going to try to use that fopr the zimmerit.
Good luck with tearing it off without ripping a whole bunch of plastic along with it.
ehh well, see what happens, or maybe I’ll just putty right over it.
TONY, NOOOOO!!!
My god, don’t do THAT! Either rip it off, or just finish it as it is, and make the post of it!
Just my carefully considered opinion…
I ripped it off, came off just fine, the PE however is bent beyond repair, so its already in the garbage. The surface of the kit was left undamaged as well. As soon as I get the light curing putty in I will continue this WIP. Thanks for the concern Doog.
Ok here we go, without the PE zim, looked too cheesy, anyway first up is a picture of tank workshops resin radiators in place for dry fitting.
Next up we have both the radiators painted. I have to prime, then paint the upper hull before I can install it into the chassis for two reasons, if I painted it with the radiators glued too it, overspray would find its way down into them, and second they have to be installed before the the chassis and hull are glued because it would be very difficult to get them in otherwise.
And lastly for today is the PE grills, this is the only PE i’m going to be using on this kit, minus maybe some griffon clamps and clasps.
Road wheels sanded and PE screens added.
Are you interested in knowing the correct colours for the radiators?
David
Why don’t you just TELL us the correct color of the radiators since we know you know?
Because I don’t like to criticise a model unless invited.
David
Sure, I see that. Maybe something like “Nice work so far. By the way, you might want to change the color of the radiator to X as my documentation says it was the most likely color.”
Davic-an admirble intention, but we’re all about critiquing and helping here.
Welcome to the fourms, and never hold back with what you know and see!
Tony–I believe that he radiators should be in primer red? Correct, David?
OK, here goes:
David