My son is near completion of a Tamiya 250/9 half track with 20mm turret, and is about ready to paint. This kit includes a top deck for the turret, that when seated in place, leaves a gap on two sides, and sits slightly higher than the side walls. I know the major gaps should be filled, but the rise of the top is the concern. Now, I have not seen any photographs that conclusively demonstrate how to handle this BUT, I have seen photo’s of completed models showing two very different finishing treatments.
a) Leave the top deck with a slight raise and a filled “weld gap” to simulate a welded in place finish.
or -
b) Top decks that have been meticulously seated, filled and sanded in place to appear totally closed and semless with no gaps or appearance of offset in height.
Now I know I’ve seen pic’s of those rare 253 half tracks based on the 250 that appear to have a smooth deck top on them. However, my gut tells me that this plate was probably welded on with either exposed weld beads or welded in place with a slight rise.
Any conclusive photo’s, or reco’s from credible sources on the best finishing method for this top deck?
I’m looking at a photo of the topside of a 250/9. It shows no gap or rise in the fighting compartment roof plate where it meets the hull sides. Everything appears flush and smooth. I’d post the photo for you, but Ron’s site is not letting us in at the moment.
Thanks for the very prompt response. Of course the Tamiya instructions don’t illustrate anything about how to handle this. The photo would be helpful when available, at least to provide a suggestion for how to address this. The entire top would have to be shaved off, or the inside side walls bevelled out a bit to make this thing flush up. To me, this type of fit thing is a pretty significant issue for this kit, especially without clear photo evidence in any quantity on what this vehicle actually looked like on top.
So although the FC-roof is flush on top to the side walls, is there no weld-bead present?
Thanks, that’s good enough. It does look like there is a line that could be a weld seam, albeit flush level with the sides though. What do you think, maybe leave a gap, but with the plate as flush as possible?
While it doesn’t show very well, there is a weld bead, there has to be one since that’s how it was assembled. I have not built this kit, so I’m not familar with the problem. What is preventing the roof plate from sitting flush? Are there some part locator tabs that are simply too high? If so, they can be trimmed down. Or is there some other part in the way that is the problem? If there is only a gap to fill, try using some Evergreen Plastics styrene strips glued to the edge of the roof plate to fill the gap. This is a preferred method rather than just using putty as it is more uniform, (assuming the gap is) and it doesn’t shrink as it dries. This extra strip stock can be carefully sanded down to produce a perfect fitting roof.
Well, the gap isn’t so big that some Squadron white putty can’t fill it. That really isn’t the issue. It’s more that the top sits up above the sides around the entire perimeter. There are no specific obstructions, it’r really more of the overall flanged edge that’s not allowing a good seat. It’s almost like they didn’t mold in a deep enough recess around the edges for there to be a flush fit of the top. There is one photo on Missing-Lynx of a guy who did a good job fitting his top down into position. I suppose he just worked the edge down to allow it to seat properly to the correct depth. Ours definitely sits higher in profile compared to what he has there.
Sounds like some classical bad fit problems. I would get the ol’ micrometer out and start taking some measurements to find out where the problems are, that way you get a better idea what needs to be beaten on…ah, er…adjusted. [:p]