What do you gentleman think? Compare with my T-90, I know this is lacking something, don’t know what though. I will let you gents be the judge of things.
If I can suggest, the only thing that looks for me a little bit odd, is the green you used for the cammo. I think is a little bit too bright, maybe some more dust will tonned it down.
Overall I think it’s a good job. SOme things I would have done differently:
German WW2 aerials were fluted rods – not capable of bending like US antennae.
Most of your On Vehicle Equipment (OVE) is painted along with the tank. Sometimes this occurred, often, not. The tow cables would never be painted but kept oiled – paint might hide defects and wear – a very dangerous situation when talking about tow cables.
Finally 3) the loader looks kinda stiff. Don’t know how to remedy that however.
OK …So this build is primitive as far as finishing techniques. Please do not be offended by this post, as I will share my build and my only motive is not to criticize, but to improve your skill level. Let’s make your next project “pop”…and elevate you to the next level…
Zimmerit:
The fundamental error is SCALE. to make the zim believable, it has to look as if 1/35th scale hands trowled it on…I chose the hot knife technique, but there are various other options…AM, putty etc…the point is, it has to reflect the same scale as the model:
Figures:
Uniforms and faces require shading to provide depth and realism. Simply applying gray paint to a German uniform, makes the figure mannequin like and detracts from the model presentation. My trick with Feldgrau is to add some acrylic dull coat to the paint mix…first paint the figure overall black or dark gray (pre-shading)…then paint the mix over to get the realistic fabric tones…same for the faces. The real trick is to paint the figure as if the sunlight is hitting it in a natural setting:
Weathering and finishing:
AIRBRUSH…practice. Small details as to subtle weathering are big in the finished product. Proper assembly of tools, paint chipping at wear points (hatch handles etc.) are necessary. Read up on techniques to apply weathering and use photographs to mimic actual wear points on vehicles in the field.
Remember, paint the tank as the sun would hit it, lighter tones on exposed surfaces at the top, working down to darker shades on the sides and at the bottom.:
Obviously, this build is not perfect, but it does present well using techniques as described above. Feel free to PM me with specifics and I will help as much as I can.
A good effort on your Tiger, but you can elevate your output by applying and practicing.
No, I am not offended at all. I myself is not happy with this. It is like you said, primitive. At one point while building this, I became unhappy with the kit that I wanted to scrap it but I’d rather finish one kit, even if it is full of mistakes and imperfection, than throw it away. I soildered on regardless of being unhappy. At the very least, I learned.
I am very very bad with figure. My figure painting experience is zero. I have just started to learn in-depth about it.
About the light, I actually prefer to paint my models without consideration of the sunlight. That way, when I take photos, the sun light will be on it naturally. I would just like to call it my style. Most of my models have a bit of highlight and contrast ( as in, lighter shades in the middle of the panel and such ) but non were ever painted with respect to where the sun is shining.
And sadly, like you pointed out, I have a problem with keeping to scale. I don’t know, maybe it’s just my eyes. I am trying to work it out though. Hopefully it will improve soon.
Many thanks for all the feedbacks, helps and support. All the feedback that I have been getting helped me with my T-90 and Dicker Max. What you just said would come in very handy for my Nashon, Challey 2 and Tiran 5
I can’t really add more than what crockett gave ya there, but I did notice the weird antenna-bending and the strange moss-green color. Definitely paint the tools and cables too.
