Well this is a first. While building my Trumpeter E-25, I have managed to glue (w/Testors liquid cement) the suspension units backwards! This morning I was trying to fit the previoussly “correctly” built tracks to the frame when I realised what I had done, AHHRRRGGGG!!! [censored]
The first thing I thought after that was don’t panic, go to the guys for help. So, what do I do to dissolve and release these parts without damage? Ben Kanobi (guys) your my only hope!
I HAVE done this, believe it or not!
Get a good channel locking pliers, protect the plastic with paper towels, and twist gently. Testors is not necessarily the strongest glue; you might be able to pry them without too much damage.
Unless they’re stuck fast–in which case, you’re out of luck!
Write to Dragon Customer Care,and explain the situation, and get a new hull.suspension arms. There mat be a small fee.
Doog, Thanks, I glued them with a pretty good dose. I thought that I have read somewhere how to weaken the glue for removal, although I am at a loss as to how to do this.
You shouldn’t need to order new parts. Unless it will really destroy details, you should be able to pop them off, or cut them off with a razor saw and reglue them in the proper positions. Putting the model in the freezer for a few hours will make the glue more brittle as well and may help. If you need to strengthen the joint for reattachment, a hole drilled into the boggie assembly and a corresponding hole in the hull with some plastic rod inserted in them works well too.
Good luck.
Plus, add this.
Before you go a twistin !http://forum1.hkgolden.com/faces/donno.gifmake sure to re-apply a small amount of the same glue to the joined area to weaken it. Give it a minute and then twist gently as described above. After you get it off, give ample time to re-dry 
(you don’t want to turn it to mush) before attempting to reattach it. I’ve only had to do this a few times in my earlier years but it works perfect.
Model glue works by melting the plastic together kind of like welding. Weakening the joint with the glue is just the opposite of putting it on.
Think of it this way, if you were to weld something together, taking the torch back to it would be the best way to get it off.
DISASTERMASTER
Disaster is right - a small amount of the same glue will help loosen the old. Also, a little heat and humidty helps - but don’t put it in the oven (I that once - bye-bye model). you could use a hairdryer - but you better be as skilled as the Zohan. My porch can get up to the 90’s in the summer - that seems to be perfect.
Also, this might be a good time to point out that CA has it’s own chemical debonder (convienently sold in hobby stores). That’s why I like using it. Part in the wrong spot, little dab of debonder, wipe clean and start over…
what about the old old trick of freezing the model? does that work only for ole testors glue?
Repaired!!! Thanks for all of the responses to my S.O.S. You guys are always there with solutions to the challenges of our hobby. It’s great how we can benefit others through past challenges of our own.
I was able to remove the suspension arms with minimal damage to the locating pins, by Doog’s sugestion of using a good set of Channel Locks with Scotchbrite to buffer the teeth between the jaws and the parts. With a little twisting back and forth the parts were released and with minimal sanding reattached in thier correct positions. Now I can move on thanks to all of you for your input, Doog, HeavyArty,DisasterMaster,IA Novice & JMart.
HURRAH!
Very happpy to hear that, doc! [:D]
I can’t add anything that Disaster or Heavy hasen’t already except…it’s never over until it’s over…calm down, don’t panic, keep the blood in your brain. Try a combination of the freeze and fresh glue the try to make them move. Take out a few…put it back in the chill and so on.
If they break, you could use Heavy’s method, my only idea would be instead of a plastic rod, use a brass rod and hold in place with CA glue. More strength from the metal.
This is part of modeling…not only making the model…some scratch building…but being able to fix any mistake and we all make them.
Good Luck
Rounds Complete!!
This happened to me before. What I did was scribe aorund the joint to make a little canal. I then applied Tamiya extra thin cement to soften the bond. While the liquid cement is still soft, I started twisting the arm (arm twisting is it?) until I finall got it separated. I hope this works for you.
Here’s a picture of the corrected assembly after plastic surgery.
[tup]
Wow, you made it sound so bad in your other posts, I was expecting a lot worse than that! You did a fine job there, I think I can only see a couple of scratches. Those should not even be seen under a coat of paint and some dirt/dust/grime.
Excellent! I can barely notice any damage - and that’s cause I’m looking! Glad it all worked out for you.
Ahh!
What frustration when we screw up… but, what gratification 
in the ability to overcome and fix it.
This will never even be noticed, so, 
reload, advance and fire!
Good Job!