I recently bought a Model 250-2 Badger Basic Spray Gun Set. I also bought two badger propel cans, and an extra 3/4 oz empty jar.
How long do the propel cans typically last? Do they have to be sealed after each usage, or can they remain connected to the gun?
I was just wondering if anyone had any tips when using this spray gun or any spray gun. This will be my first time every using a spray gun, so if anyone has any tips they would be greatly appreciated.
Matt
Have a look at this page. It might be of some help. You should disconnect the cans after each use. Check out this page too. They will quickly become expensive. The 250 uses a lot of air. You might want to consider getting a compressor.
Don
This is true, but also depends on what you are building. 1/72 aircraft? The cans will last much longer than if you are building 1/32 aircraft or large ships.
I will probably be using the spray gun on models that are 1/25.
How much are air compressors anyway?
And after each use, when I disconnect the can, how do I properly seal it?
I should have given you a better answer. The adapter that screws on the can has a valve on top. Turning the valve clockwise releases gas from the can. If you turn it counterclockwise until it feels loose, the can will self seal and you can leave the airbrush connected if you like. The adapter is the blue thing in the pictures at the bottom of this page. I always disconnect my airbrushes after each use, but I know that many do not.
Since you specified 1/25 scale, I’m guessing that you will be modeling cars. If you are careful, you may get a couple kits out of one can. I suggest you practice first on some scrap plastic, like soda bottles, and that could use up a can.
As for compressor information, type compressor in the Search our Community box on the right side of the page. Select Painting and airbrushing from the drop down menu, and click on Search. You will find a lot of threads on selecting a compressor.
Best of luck with your new airbrush and welcome to the forum.
Don
You can also completely remove (as in unscrew) the can adaptor/regulator described by Don above when not in use without fear of leakage from the propellant can. Turning the knob as Don describes actuates a valve in the neck of the can, it does not permanently puncture the can in any way.
You may be thinking of how some camping stoves/lamps actually pierce the body of the gas canister, which then cannot be removed until the can is empty. This is not the case with airbrush propellant cans.
Ah, ok. Perfect.
Do you guys follow the tip shown on one of the links that said to put the can into warm water so the pressure stays consistent?
If you’re spraying just a little bit, you probably don’t need to. But, it you’re doing something bigger, like a whole car body, I would. If the can feels cold to the touch, you’re not getting the best pressure, and you may get spattering.
Don
What type of solvent is the best to use to clean out the paint jar?
Will paint thinner work?
I started with the compressed air canisters, however there is nothing more frustrating than running out of air mid way through a build.
Like a couple others have said I would make the investment in a compressor.
You can get a reasonable compressor for under $150. That isn’t exactly cheap, but after a few cans it will start to sound like a better deal.
How do I get the siphoning to work? There is enough paint and nothing is blocked. I tried sucking on the nozzle going into the bottle, but that didn’t even seem to work. Any ideas/tips?
I got it to work once before, so I know everything works.
Have another look at my review. There is a tiny vent hole in the lid area that might be clogged. Get it to work with plain water before you try paint.
Don
There doesn’t seem to be any clog. If the water works, what would that tell me? The paint is too thick?
Well, water is less messy. And, yes, if water works then properly thinned paint should too. You said you tried sucking on the nozzle. Try blowing on it. If you can’t get bubbles, then there has to be a clog. You can remove the nozzle and tube assembly from the body of the brush to do this. If there is a clog, you can clear it with a straight pin.
I don’t know what you are using for air now, but the 250 requires a fair amount to spray well. And, you know you have to adjust the nozzle up into the air stream to get any spray.
Don
Are you referring to the nozzle that dips into the paint?
Yes, the nozzle is attached to the Teflon tube that dips into the paint. If you still have the instruction book, it’s part number 50-028.
Don
I have used that trick. One time I did an especially long paint job. The pressure began to drop off. I picked up the can to shake it, and the bowl and water came up with the can. This is the truth- so help me- the cold can had literally frozen the water in the bowl. That is when I went out and bought a compressor.
If you do not mind a lot of noise when you paint, you can get an adequate compressor for forty bucks. But if you want a quieter compressor made for airbrushing you’ll have to go a bit over a hundred. My latest cost $120.
Do the $40 compressor’s have variable pressures?
Most every compressor can have variable pressure. All a compressor does is pump air. You attach a regulator and a water trap to your air line to regulate and clean your air.
Chris