Sometimes it is difficult to separate the technique from the tools. Good sanding is essential to making seams look good, and I’ve been using Testors sanding films
( http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1528 ) to do most of my sanding.
They work well, they’re inexpensive, and they last a long time. However, I’m working on a kit now with very hard plastic. I had a very hard time sanding with the sanding films, so I thought I’d try the sanding sticks I’ve been reading about (Squadron sanding sticks: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/squ/squ30506.htm ). They’re a bit more expensive, but they help give me extra leverage and I’m very happy with the results.
The biggest thing I’ve discovered is that I much prefer wet sanding to dry sanding. To wet sand, I keep a small cup of water next to me, put the part I’m working on on a paper towl, and use a few drops of water on the area I’m sanding. The water keeps the dust from getting everywhere and I get a smoother finish.
Lufbery…couldn’t agree with you more about the sanding sticks…and wet sanding…
in addition i would advocate for compound curves that sanding system (Flexi-file) ?with the metallic “U” shaped handle and the varying grades of sanding strips used with that handle…
oh…yeah…before i could access those sanding sticks, i made my own with pieces of one of those styrofoam egg cartons, two faced tape and the sand paper of your choice…cut-tape-cut-sand & voila…
…until this forum i had 3 sources of learning and sharing:
trial, error & experimenting…
“How To…” books…
and the 1 v 1 encounters at a not so long ago LHS…
Coffee filters are GREAT for buffing plastic. I use them between sanding grits to make sure I removed the previous grit’s scratches. Even after using the buffing side of Squadron’s tri-grit, coffee filters will shine it even more. Fibers will be left behind, but it’s always a good idea to wash the model after sanding. Plus, you really can’t beat the price !
But Pix, don’t the coffee grounds make a mess on the model ? [:D]. In addition to all of the above, I find the Micro-Mesh sanding pads to be indispensable.
The Flexi-Files are fantastic for curved areas. They are basicly the same material as the testors sanding film and last a good while. The frames are a little on the expensive side, but at least you only have to buy them once.
Pix, I need to try the coffee filter idea that sounds like it would work really well on my current project. Thanks for the tip!
I’ve always been impartial to the polishing abrasives myself. 8000 grit (or even higher) is great for the final touch and to rub those darn finger prints out that always find their way onto the model.
The absolute BEST tip I ever got from this maganize is one I’m very happy to use all the time. I use the Testors films too, so I know this works for that.
An electric toothbrush with the ocellating (back and forth. I can’t spell.) head works great once the bristles are gone and you put some sandpaper on it. I just glued some foam rubber on the head and stuck the sandpaper on that, so it conforms to curves. It’s a very handy electric sander, and it works very good.
I use scouring pads a lot. They come in sevaral different grits (and colors) and I’ve found that the ones I like best are a dark charcoal color. I’ve tried some of the ‘kitchen’ type scouring pads (usually either blue or white) but they didn’t seem to work as well as the charcoal ones. I usually pick them up at a hardware store or ‘home depot’ type store. They’re about 5"x7"x0.5" and I cut them into smaller pieces about 2"x3".
I like them because they’re very flexible and can get into seams/edges very easily. They’re cheap, and once they loose their grit, just toss-em. I always use these to clean up surfaces prior to paint, or do the final buffing on seams/filler. It’s just something I’ve gotten used to, and know what to expect re: results.
There’s one downside - they shed a fine charcoal powder. This has never really bothered me because I always wash parts before painting anyways. However, I do know others that have put these pads in their ‘bad-books’ for this reason. Some of the other colors (white and blue) don’t shed as much (or at all), but they just don’t seem to give the same results that I’m used to.
PS. I’ve also made my own ‘flexi-files’ (not the pads, but the curved sanding strip holder) for very low $. They’re a good tool, but not worth the obscene $ they sell for (at least in my part of the world…) If you’re interested in further details, send me an email.
I’ve found that on occasion (hard plastic, lots of rivets to remove, lots of putty to sand) that things seem to go faster and easier if I go to the sink and sand under running water - sandpaper doesn’t clogg up near as fast and you don’t get sanding residue in left in recessed areas. My Airfix B-29 is starting to think it’s really a submarine!
Not sure if this come under the heading ‘Sanding’ but I use a selection of jeweller’s files for initial seam clean up etc, as I find these work very qucikly, followed up by wet sanding the area to remove any maks left by the file, as well as the fault that required cleanup.
These can be a bit harsh if you are not careful, but due to the variry of shapes, and their small size, they will often fit where sanding sticks et al won’t.
The other trick I have learnt, is to stick a piece of wet’n’dry to the end of a piece of dowel, for use as a sort of twist sander. Ideal for those ejector pin marks in the centre of gear doors etc.
Quincy and Karl: thanks for the tips. I can see how the running water would help – currently I wet the surface, sand for a while, then wipe it off and start all over. But for really tough chores, the running water would save time.
I’ve used needle files, but I tend to gouge the plastic and they clog pretty easily for me. I guess the right technique will take me some time to develop.
I’m finding that the coarse sanding stick I’m using is really taking a beating. I’ve worn down the ends on it a couple of times now. When that happens, I simply cut a little bit off with scissors, and the sanding stick is as good as new (but shorter).
Drew,I to use sanding sticks or twigs and found them at hobby lobby.A big bag is about $2.99 and they are very flixible.So if you have a hobby lobby around you my want to check them out.I fine that the testor sanding flim are ok also I use a sponge paper the I found at wal-mart.This comes in many grits and can be wet or dry.Also they clean up with soap and water so they can be used again and again.Because they are a sponge they will contoure around parts.You can find this at there paint section.Digger