I work in a school so I had the last two weeks off, during that time I bit in to my stash completing 6 builds. I chose simple kits because I wanted to do lots of work without it being too difficult. Since getting back in to the hobby I have some stong feelings on some things.
All aircraft tires should be rubber. I hate painting the plastic wheels. Only one of my AC so far has rubber tires, an Academy P-38.
Not all instruction manuals are created equal. Some are so vague and confusing. Wasn’t there a time when there was some instructional text included?
Resin and photo etch parts. I know I’m not the most experienced here and I’m probably the worst, but I find these overrated and not worth the trouble. I admit I should have listened to some advice I received here regarding working with these type parts but I wanted to tackle my Fairey Firefly. The part content was low and it appeared to be a very simple looking kit. The resin was almost impossible for me to work with and everything had to be sanded down etc. Not worth it to me. I found myself wishing it had been a normal kit. I salvaged it and it turned out nice but far from perfect.
Here is something we probably all agree on, not having enough time to model. The time off was great and often I modeled for over 5 hours a day. On the last two days I started my first armor kit. Since being back to work I have had no time at all.
Zar, at the risk of being ostracized, I have to agree with you! On the tire thing, I would be happy if they came with tire and hub molded separately, but on the rest of your rant, count me in as well!
In the early days, Accurate Miniatures’ instructions were the best: informative, concise, great drawings and even reference photos in some cases, but their later issues leave a lot to be desired.
I find myself avoiding the purchase of kits with resin and photo-etch included; if it is there I feel bound to include it in the build, and it always elicits foul language and greater stress. And I see that as defeating the purpose of modeling, which for me, is to RELAX.
Last weekend, I slapped together Otaki’s 1/48th Ki-44 in 3 evenings. Didn’t detail the cockpit, left the canopy closed, used the kit decals and for once, experienced a sense of accomplishment. It is a sad testimony when one goes to the shelf to pick a kit to build, and finds nothing that does not require a month-long, super-detailing marathon, so you just walk away and find something else to do.
Some kits are better than others … they are what they are.
See #1.
Some people can afford to get their cars washed once a week for $25 a pop, others due it on their own and maybe get to it 1-2x a month. Sure they’re nice to use, and some kits add exceptional detail to your build, but then there’s always to ever-improving art of scratch-building … and sheet styrene is pretty cheap.
YOU ARE NOT ALONE. I own my own business (thank God today its raining … YEA MODEL DAY!!!) but you model when you can. That’s everyone’s story. Being new here, the first thing that I noticed was that the forum was explosive with replies on the weekend. Yesterday morning hit (Monday) and it was like a dang ghost-town. I personally get up with my wife everymorning (as she has to be up at the hospital VERY early), make coffee and toast, and do a little modeling before she leaves … about 30 mins worth. By finding, little bits and pieces of time here and there, you’ll be surprised at how quickly things will come along. And just so that I don’t have to be “away” from the wife if I decide to work in the evening … I sucked it up and put a reading chair and reading lamp in the corner of my study just for her … Yep, even my man-room had to give something. The things we’ll do to model …
We all grouse from time to time…its human nature. In my experience, modelers tend to grouse the most when they are frustrated with themselves and their abilities. I too did this in my earlier novice years of building. It wasn’t until I got involved with others who were masterful at the craft, watching, listening and learning from them to beat the grousing demon back. Yeah there are things that I still find frustrating from time to time during my builds. The challenge now is to overcome them. Beat the demon and the satisfaction from the process is wonderful. As Gunny Highway says: “Adapt and overcome.”
Tires, I guess it depends on scale, but I’d hate to deal with rubber tires on the 1/72 aircraft I build. I could go for the seperately cast plastic tires, but I’m ok with them as the are. I do however hate it when they split the wheel / tire in half so you get a seam right down the center of the tread. What a pain just to save a bazillinth in an ounce of plastic, I bet there is more plastic in the shrink wrap on one small kit than they save in 100 kits by not including solid wheels, I’d gladly pay the extra nickel to cover the material cost.
Instructions, I wonder how much this has to do with the international market vs getting sloppy. I’m guessing some of both, I can understand relying on images over text, but when instructions are reduced to 4 pages and 2 of those are for painting and decaling it does get confusing at times.
Resin and photo etch parts. Personal choice here, use them or don’t. If you want to detail an older kit that came with minimal details, resin an PE are really the only way to go. Injection molded detail sets coming out is very unlikely because the small aftermarket industry cant afford the costs involved. Resin and PE can litereally be done out of the home, injection plastic can not.
Time, I don’t know anyone that doesn’t have that problem. There was a movie year ago with the girl from Mork & Mindy where a guy had a watch that could alter the speed time flowed, I’d love to have a watch like that. Put it on super slow and just build. [:)]
This is the only point I disagree with. Plastic parts are much easier to paint and modify. You can’t easily make a flat spot and weight bulge in rubber. Rubber is also harder to weather.
I only read the instructions as a last resort. [:)] Most of the time, I look at the kit, decide what I need to paint or modify in what order and choose my assembly based on that. In a very complicated kit, I look at the instructions to see in anything needs to be inserted in a location I can’t get to. But on almost every kit, I leave parts off at certain steps and need to go back and attach them after painting or sanding. I use the instruction sheet more as a reference than an installation guide.
I agree 100%. I’ve gotten pieces with kits (A.M. and Czech kits for example), butI don’t go out and buy resin or PE unless I can’t make a piece, modify the existing or steal one from another kit.
Here, here. Something to look foreward to when retirement comes. [;)]
Rubber tires. From a manufacturers experience, they would add to the base cost of the kit, requiring separate tooling and a third material (opaque and clear plastics counted). Sometimes I sand down my aircraft tires to make them look under load. Or armor builders chip and wear the road wheels. Rigid plastic is much more workable than rubber in these cases.
Instructions. I find that most instructions are adequate. Indeed, visual diagrams are the only option for paint reference. Modeling is a visual art. Text is mostly unnecessary. This also helps control printing costs, as you would have to use individual printing plates for each language. Models are a global hobby.
Photo-Etch and Resin. An airplane without seatbelts looks wrong. Yet I have never found ONE SINGLE 1/72 KIT that includes proper belts (or ejection pulls for that matter). I also just wrapped up a pretty little P-40 with lots of PE cockpit and radiator detail. The responses I have had are all very positive. I would gladly use PE on every kit I build. PE and resin are only overrated if you don’t enjoy using them. To me, they add immeasurable value to my build. Also, I have worked in the model business and therefore have good experience with part prototyping. This means mastering, molding, and resin casting. I know that one can achieve far more detail from a silicon mold and poured resin than is possible with a cut steel injection tooling. Resin and PE also open up markets for small producers than cannot invest in large scale operations. This opens up possibility of unique subjects that are not otherwise mass manufactured.
Time. Amen with that. I had the best 4 years working in a model shop. Not only did I have the time, I was REQIRED to have the time and I got paid for it. I do notice that since I left that job (for complex reasons), in the past year I have completed twice as many models as I did during the four years I worked in that shop.
Those are so easy to scratchbuild. Cut some masking tape for the seat belts. Use some stretched sprue or wire bent into a circle or oval for pull handles.
A few packages of styrene sheet and some various junk saved (bits of foil, wire, etc) are way cheaper than even one PE or resin set.
All aircraft tires should be rubber. I hate painting the plastic wheels. Only one of my AC so far has rubber tires, an Academy P-38.
Get yourself a circle stencil at Michaels or your local crafts store, paint the whole thing rubber, find a hole that matches the hub size and spray the hub the appropriate color. Perfect every time.
Not all instruction manuals are created equal. Some are so vague and confusing. Wasn’t there a time when there was some instructional text included?
Instructions have always been a mixed bag. Some are great, some suck. Never follow their painting instructions/decal placement guide without verifying it first. I’ve seen too many mistakes on them to find them even partially reliable.
Resin and photo etch parts. I know I’m not the most experienced here and I’m probably the worst, but I find these overrated and not worth the trouble. I admit I should have listened to some advice I received here regarding working with these type parts but I wanted to tackle my Fairey Firefly. The part content was low and it appeared to be a very simple looking kit. The resin was almost impossible for me to work with and everything had to be sanded down etc. Not worth it to me. I found myself wishing it had been a normal kit. I salvaged it and it turned out nice but far from perfect.
All resin and PE are not created equal, and PE requires a lot of practice and patience. Some people find the results worth it, some don’t.
Here is something we probably all agree on, not having enough time to model. The time off was great and often I modeled for over 5 hours a day. On the last two days I started my first armor kit. Since being back to work I have had no time at all.
Modeling as well as how you do it is a personal choice. The individual has to find what works for them and do it. And leave out complaining about the rest of it.
I’m not exactly sure where your modeling fruustration comes from, maybe you just had a bad day, but modeling should be relaxing and enjoyable. I don’t really see the purpose of “ranting” on modeling. There’s all levels of models and aftermarket items, and as others have pointed out, it’s up to the individual to select the stuff that works for them. You may not like resin, and that’s fine, but please consider that many others enjoy going that extra mile for their own personal satisfaction, and there’s nothing wrong with that. I realize not everyone is easy to please, but ranting on modeling? Is it really called for or relevant?
Who’s whining? My point is that I ENJOY adding PE sets to my planes because they answer what I see as a consistent failing in 1/72 scale aircraft kits. On that basis, I cannot agree with the statement that PE and resin is overrated.
I have done my share of scratchbuilding, moldmaking, casting, prototyping, and designing.
I have time to put in around 45-50 hours a week at the bench… The problem is not having too much time, it’s too much time is spent staring at a build and drawing a total blank on what to do next… Modeler’s block, perhaps…
I actually disagree with the “no need stinking instructions” part… I LIKE instructions, well detailed, explaining and NAMING every part. Best way to learn about your vehicle, compare to references, etc. I can then choose the build order, paint colors and what to add/omit. I miss the old revell/monogram instructions…
