Hi everyone
I’ve been reading this forum for a few months and have got some questions for people. I’m just starting out with modelling and have so far built a couple of planes, a not very good sd.kfz 223 and have just completed my first ‘good’ (for me) kit - a Tamiya Universal Carrier Mk.II. Anyhow the questions I have are:
1) What’s the big deal with colours?
There’s loads of stuff on this forum about colours, and I don’t know if I should be more concerned than I am about them. I mean, I want my kits to look accurate but at some point one dark green becomes pretty similar to another dark green, and so I just use a couple of dark greens for everything and randomly mixed with other colours if I feel like it. So how important is it to people to have the exact shade of German grey used by troops on 15th May 1940 instead of just something approximate? I’ve read that since in the field troops used whatever they could get their hands on it wasn’t uncommon for armour to not have the same colours uniformly over one vehicle never mind the whole unit, so I dunno.
2) Decals
I hate decals. So far I’ve found them much more likely to get stuck to my fingers, become completely lopsided on the model and generally be a pain in the u-know-what than anything. But I’ve also seen a ray of sunshine cos people are talking about setting solutions but I don’t know what they are - is there some particular brand that is good for all decals or do different decals require certain solutions?? I seem to be sticking aith Tamiya kits at the moment so what’s good for them? Which leads me on to…
3) Tamiya
Is it generally agreed that Tamiya make superb models? Even for a beginner like me they are so well made that they fit together exactly. Some of the figures are a bit rough but on their newer kits they seem to be much better. I quite like making small vehicles so far - my next is a Kettenkraftad - but can someone recommend a good tank to start with? I like WWII kits more than modern armour! And are there any manufacturers as good as Tamiya or am I entirely mistaken?
4) Dioramas
Now that I’ve built a model I’m pleased with of course I want to make a mini-diorama to show it off in. I’m thinking just a small section of land enough to hold the model, so more minor scenery than diorama. Anyway can someone suggest a list of things that I need to make the landscape with? I have some wood, sandpaper and…that’s it apart from some putty. Can i just put wood glue on the wood and sprinkle some sand on it or how can I easily make a more natural earth effect?
Everyone here seems pretty knowledgeable and I’ve seen some really excellent work on these pages so any help appreciated! Thanx in advance [:)]
Nick
Welcome to the board, dubchild. I will try to answer the questions as best I can, and I expect you will get quite a few more replies. With colors, a lot of people discuss it in a quest for accuracy. You are correct that shades of armor tended to vary, depending on methods of application and environmental conditions. Some color discussions revolve around which colors were actually used. It can be difficult to pick out from B/W pictures whether a dark color is brown or green or something else. Second, there are a few decal setting solutions out there. Solvaset, Testors, Microsol all have products. Personally I use Testors setting solution (for complex surfaces) and then I only use it when I really need the decals to curve around an odd shape. For flat surfaces, I just put them on. The key is to put them on a glossy surface so they don’t silver (the carrier film shows.) As for a beginning tank, most of Tamiya’s new offerings are good to start with. Their Panther G (avoid the Panther A), Tiger Early (no zimmerit), King TIger, Shermans, Pz III and IV, their T-55 (these are just ones that jump to mind) are all very nice kits with little in the way of difficulty. Dragon’s new kits are very nice as well but tend to be more complex. Dioramas I will leave to the experts there.
A few things I’d like to add about decals and solutions. If they are curving around your fingers, a solution is not going to help any. They are used after the decal is on the model and, for the most part, in the correct position. Soak the decal in water then hold it, backing paper and all, about where it needs to be. Use a brush, toothpick, etc. to move the edge of the decal from the backing paper to as close as possible to where it should be on the model. Then lolding the decal to the model, gently slide the backing paper out from under the decal.
Different solutions react differently with different decals. About the mildest is MicroSet. Some modelers wet the area of the model where the decal is supposed to go with a bit of MicroSet before putting the decal there. MicroSol is a bit stronger. About the strongest is SolvaSet. If you use one of these, once the solution is on the decal, do not try to move it. You can poke and prod it a bit to get it to form around something if you are careful and gentle. The decals become very soft and will tear to pieces very easily. The decal may get very wrinkley. Don’t assume all is lost. Some solutions do that normally and the decal will flatten out as it dries. Leave it alone and see what happens. You may need to apply solution two or more times to a decal before it totally conforms to where it needs to be. Let the decal dry between applications. If you have any air bubbles under the decal, pierce them with a pin or the point of a modeling knife and apply a little solution to that spot.
Good luck and keep asking questions. They are good for all of us!
[:D]hi,wellcome to the forums,i think Jwest ansewerd most of the qustions that you had,for the decals i use micro- sol,and i find that it works great for me.but that is your choise.if you go back on the forum pages you will some pics of the carrie i just finished tell me what you think of it.[:D]
(1) colors - Any shade of green will work fine. Works for me. However as you get more experienced you will find that concern about more exact shades will creep in. I don’t know why , it just happens. [:D] People who have been in the military and ACTUALLY DROVE THE STUFF (cool) will know exact details about everything and they know colors very well most of the time.
(2) Decals - (a) future (or any gloss you prefer), (b) decals, (c) solvaset (d) glosscoat again to seal. Works everytime, hasn’t failed me yet.
(3) I’ve never built a Tamiya model. There is a certain sense of accomplishment that goes with putty work.
(4) wood glue and sand - yes but afterwards wash it with browns and tans and add spots of woodland scenics or some other brand of “ground foam”. Here is a link to one I did with that method:
Thanks for all your answers! This forum is insane, it’s the busiest I’ve seen I think…posts are coming in so fast it’s easy for a thread to get lost! Anyhow thanks again, any more replies are welcome!
Cheers
Discussions of colour are irrelevant, at least to me. I know that there are many purists out there, but the fact of the matter is, there are so many variables that account for the appearance of a certain shade, that being able to actually correctly identify one is ridiculous. I model for the sake of modelling first, and accuracy second.
2)Cartograf is considered to be quite good, but I’m not sure who manufacture’s tamiya’s decals. They are a pain-in the-…, but what are ya gonna do. I have been moving more and more into making and painting my own markings instead of the kit decals.
Sure Tamiya is good, but you gotta pay the price. Myself, I find it unwarranted for the most part, but some of the kits they make are just not offered by anyone else, or if they are, they are such horrible offerings, that you’re left with no choice but to cough up the dough. If I may suggest, any of the old Tamiya T-34 tanks are very good vehicles to start with. They’re enjoyable and very simple to build.
4). You can do as you suggested, but you will not like the results. The best thing is to actually have some contouring. I use actual mud. I mix a half/half (or around there) mixture of white school glue with water, and make mud with fine sifted earth from my back-yard. I’ll spread this evenly over my base (it can be flat, or contoured in general shapes using styrofoam), and allow to dry. While it’s drying, imprint any track marks and whatever else is going to be on later. Once dry, it can be left as is, or painted, but be prepared to waste a lot of paint, as it’s quite thirsty.
Welcome dubchild,
As the guys have said pretty much all the good stuff i’ll just add that
as a rookie myself if im ever stuck on something i ask these guys and they are so willing to help and alway know what they are talking about. My 1st kit last year was a panther G from tamiya it was a good kit to start off with but now i find that i enjoy building dragon kits.
So have fun with your modeling and hope to see some of your work
the excact german armour colours were lost after ww2 i’m pretty sure. so no one know the exact colours.
i have always had trouble with those evil things. i use to always end up with us airforce and insignials on my fingers. last year i finally got some to work. what i did was:
run the decal (after being cut) under water for 10 secs
use a hobby knife to try to get the paper off, if it doesn’t easily come off, run under water again for a few seconds more.
after you have the decal off of the paper and one you knife, put one side of the decal ont he model and slidee the knife from under it.
use the knife to gently smooth any bubles out of it.
i used this method on my 1/72 hobbycraft hind, and they all worked.
Tamiya is a great company for beginers because all the parts go together well. i buil the panther A that JWest21 mentioned. it is very inaccurate, but it’s price makes it a good kit to start on. i had no problems building it. i would recomend it as a good beginner model to test out methods and technices.
i’m horrible at dioramas, so i’m not he one to ask.
Welcome!! I think every one has covered most of your Q.s well.Tamiya kits are the standard bearer in my opinion,esp. for beginners. Do yourself a favor and find a craft store and get some Celuclay or Sculptamold. Mix as directed but add alittle white glue and a touch of dish soap.Lay it down(you might want to sand the wood rough under) and let it dry.Then you can paint it a good ground color and wash it with a darker one. When it drys drybrush it to add realism. Once it’s all dry ,coat it with a glue water mix and add your grasses. Before the celuclay sets up don’t forget to add the vehicle tracks.Have fun!!![2c]
All of your questions have pretty much been answered. I’d just like to add my input to #3 and #4.
there are better models than tamiya. Dragon and AFV club both make superb models. However, they are not as good for begginers as Tamiya is. Dragons models include inividual track links and some contain PE. Italeri is another offering but, they are always a surprise in the box. (some are good, some are not) Id stick with tamiya for awhile.
Stug61 pretty much nailed the base thing. I like to use celluclay. what you do is, for a pretty basic base is:
Mix the celluclay and add some cheap brown acrylic craft paint and a couple of drops of dish soap.
then apply the mix to the wood. and spread where desired.
use sand, railroad ballast and/or some plain kitty litter and sprinkle it them onto the base. These will simulate the rocks and gravel. Press the bigger rocks into the ground for realism.
4.Now is the time to add your vehicle tracks. just press the tracks into the celluclay before its dry.
when the celluclay is dry, add a black wash to the base, then when it is dry, drybrush the entire base to bring out the raised effects.
For bushes you can use clump foliage and lichen.
For grass I use their product called Static grass. just place it on the base and spray it down with a mixture of 50% water 50% white glue. then, let it dry over night, and finaly take it outside and gently blow off all the excess.
It may seem like a long process, but It is a pretty much garanteed way to make a decent base. And I can assure you you wont be too satisfied with just sand on a wood base.
good luck with everything and Welcome to the Fourms![:D]
