What’s the best way to do soft camo lines when painting two different colors. I’m doing a 1/32 F86 Sabre and the bottom color is PRU Blue and the upper colors are Gray and Green. I have two different references for the colors and one shows hard demarcation lines and the other shows soft lines. The soft look a little better so I thought I would give them a try.
Thanks
hi… here’s a thread to an earlier post that should be of help:
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5383&SearchTerms=mask,roll,tape
If you don’t feel confident about free-handing the camo demarcration lines check out FSM issue: March 2002. This issue features an expanded lesson on airbrushing camo, expert tips, trouble shooting and more. Also the issue takes a look at recent airbrushes for modeling-some are better than others for control and capability. When I have an intricate camo job to replicate I thin Model Master enamel 2:1 plus aprox 5 drops of an oil paint medium from Winsor &Newton into the mix. The medium improves the flow and deminishes clogs. I drop the psi down to 10 and free-hand spray the demarcration lines with an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Depending on the scale, and stye of the demarcration line on the real machine- I get in close to the models suface for a very tight (nearly hard) line or back away the nozzle for a more feathered edge. Once I drwn the camo borders, I fill in the areas with the appropriate colors. With practice you’ll have it licked! Happy modeling!
Right on the money, though I’ve never tried the oil paint medium, plus I find it easier if I thin 50-55% paint and 45-50% thinner. For me the paint atomizes and flows better.
spray first color (the lighter). use silly putty to mark the demarcation border just a few milimeters (2-3) short to the inside of your intended border line. Put a cover (which is contoured to the exact shape of the camp pattern, which when view from above should be spot on to the intended camo line.) on the base colored areas and spray the rest with right angles to the surface or slightly to the outside. If your gap (between the putty and shaded by the cover area) is too wide and you spray towards the inside you will get a mixed shade thats no good…otherwise you get a soft feathered edge.
I like to use paper masks, if I can, to simulate soft edges. I lift them off the model by gluing sections of q-tip sticks under the masks. This raises the mask just enough to make a soft line. It won’t work for every situation but it’s an option I use whenever I can. Works great on “blotchy” camo.
-fish
Masking is too much work. Get an Iwata and do it freehand. With mine I can get really tight, but still soft, edges.