Any of you guys try the Cookie Sewell silly putty method for hard-edged camo patterns? I shot the hull red on my E-100 tonight and I am mulling over how to get a hard edged scheme like on late war German vehicles, without having to brush paint it.
Any experiences to share? Does it leave a greasy residue?
I keep a bunch of that stuff. It does work. I do recommend that you take it off within 10 or 15 minutes after you spray so it won’t make any changes in your first color. They will not be major changes and can be all fixed up with a few coats of Future but I forgot about taking mine off for the whole night and it did lighten the green on my Ms262 a bit. The result are very nice and I did not notice a residue. After using I just roll it all back together and use it two or three more times. A great deal for the low price…
i’ve used it (that was my post), works great. no residue that i can notice and comes of clean and easy. the only problem i had was that overspray can cause raised edges of the masked off pattern but that’s really not a putty specific problem (it’s really me being a dumbass [:D])
Can’t really add too much more other than it worked great for me too!! I went to Wally world and tried thier elcheapo brand and it worked great. I tried to find the real stuff and they were out so I tried the cheaper stuff… no problems.
I guess I’ll be the odd-man out on this one. I used it once, and ended up with residue. I don’t know if it was because I used cheap silly putty or if I left it on too long, but it was a real pain in the backside.
I’ll take it a step further Larry, I used PlayDo (from my grandaughters stash) on this Panther…
The great thing about the PlayDo is it is more maleable than the silly putty and not quite as “adhesive”. Silly putty tends to lift paint when applied to a surface, PlayDo does not.
[2c]
I used on a hummer with great results. Just use slim pieces or you might get a soft edge camo. I recently used it on a tornado for masking the cockpit with PE parts: it worked great. Only one seat belt was slightly bent and I think that was me not being careful while taking it off.
Oh, but not even try it for geometric camos (like the one on the STRV 103C) it’s almost impossible to shape it precisely.
Yes it does dry out, but it takes about thirty minutes. When I used it, I would apply, spray and discard. Then grab some “fresh” goo and roll it out, cut the pattern with an exacto, apply …etc. The stuff is great as it lays down in those nooks and crannies and can be manipulated once on the model. The best thing is no residue.
What’s the worst that can happen… repaint? paint over it? strip it down? who cares… the suspense is killing me I want to see the pic of your silly putty paint job!
Just wanted to tell all that the Strv-103C dont have to be painted in camo. Some were not, i dont know why. If someone wants i can put up a few pictures of none camoflauged C-models.
I used the play-doh method that crockett suggested, and I like it. I recently painted up the E-100 and a 1/76th scale G6 “Rhino” SPA, both using the play-doh method, and will post pics of them when they are done.
For geometric shades you can try to cut it with an XActo.
Just put Xacto above Silly Putty and press it down to plastic surface.
For curved surfaces use Xacto like trying to scribe lines…
No, the Play Do is no good for construction material. When it dries it just basically turns to dust. Water is the binding ingredient, so if you use it as filler or something like that, you will be in trouble sooner than later. I mean it dries hard as a rock but then disintegrates into dust.