THis is getting a bit frustrating. I’ve dunked my canpoies in future, and used ez-masks to mask off. However i have a hard time removing the ezmask without leaving adhesive on the pane, and it chipping the paint.
I’m really getting annoyed, this is why i love armor models. LOL
But i really want to “get this” I have been working on cheap kits, working on fit and finish, getting seams to disappear. It;s this darn canopy thing that is driving me crazy. Maybe i should stay away from complicated canopies like the zero and instead work on something like a thunderbolt.
Any hints would be great, even alternitive ideas for frames would be great.
Thanks Bill
I’ve used blank decal sheets painted the appropriate color and cut into thin strips with success.
Fred
Just switch over to WW1 bipes ; no canopies there ! [:D]
Seriously now, have you considered trying a liquid mask for your canopies ? Also what masking tape are you using ?
Personally I never use future (because I don’t have access to it), and I don’t mis it either, but if you use it, make sure that it hase cured long enough when you start masking, and very important as well, don’t leave the masking tape on for too long.
ps, Iforget the question about what tape you’re using, just saw the ez-mask sentance.
Tamya masking tape [;)]
And if you do get anything on the glass use a cotton-bud / cue tip with toothpaste to rub the offending mark of and polish the glass like new.
Goo-gone also does wonders to remove residual adhesive after you lift the masks. One thing I do before removing the masks is to go around the frame contour with a hobby knife to make sure the paint doesn’t lift with the mask. Not too much pressure, just enough to cut through the thin paint film. And as Dan said, remove the masks as soon as the paint is cured, the longer they stay on, the more likely they’ll leave residues.
Bill,
You might want to try and run a sharp No. 11 blade slowly around the outside edge of the mask before lifting it off it might help reduce the paint chipping when it is removed.
Cheers
Thom [:)]
I have found that black bare-metal foil is ideal for masking canopies.Just burnish it down carefully trim around it with a new #11 exato blade,lift off the excess with your tweezers,paint the interior color and finish with your camo top coats.After the paint has dried for a day or two,score around the canopy frames with a new #11 blade and remove the foil with your tweezers.Any residue left on the clear parts of the canopy can be taken care of with Goo-Gone and a cotton swab.
I prefer using Tamiya tape cut into thin strips or Scotch Magic tape used in the way described above for Bare Metal Foil. The key is to remove the tape as soon as possible. If there is some adhesive residue it can be removed with Goo Gone or lighter fluid ( Naphtha, which is also a dry cleaning agent). If there is some paint chipping, it can usually be touched up using a fine brush. A Zero is a pretty tough canopy to learn on, but if you master it the rest become easier. Until you try a Stuka [:)].
Regards, Rick
Also, you might try to spray a thin layer of Future over your masks before you put down the color. That way, if there’s any bleeding to do, it will be done with Future and not colored paint. Before you remove the masks, do like they’ve said above and run a blade along the edges really lightly. That should get you all set.
I might add that personally, I prefer to just hand paint my canopies. If you’re really careful and take care to brace your arms and hands you should be okay. That doesn’t work for some people though, it’s just a lot easier for me.
I had done the basic construction on my latest F-105 , (see thunderbird Thud thread) and was ready to paint, so I put liquid masking material on the canopy. I sprayed on a coat of primer and the first color and then got real busy doing some other more important things in life and didn’t get back to the model for over 6 months. When I finished the painting recently and removed the mask, the adhesive residue was pretty bad. The toothpaste and Q-tip took care of the problem. I buffed it out with a very fine grade automotive polish and then applied a coat of Future. It looks fine now.
Darwin, O.F. [alien]
The tips you’ve gotten here are pretty much the way I would do it as well.
o Tamiya tape (I use nothing else when it matters)
o Burnish it down very well (keeps paint from bleeding underneath)
o Paint in thin coats (buildup is what causes the paint to peel off)
o Enamel or laquer for the first thin coat (they adhere better than acrylic)
o Run anX-Acto blade along the tape before pulling it up.
Those should solve your problems.
I do almost 1/72 exclusively, the Battle of Britian Hurri I did was driving me to distraction. The frame work was raised…I used a blunted toothpick. The plastic was not prepped with anything other than soap and water. Any mistake were gently rubbed away up to the framework…I have also used the Scotch blue masking tape backed up with Parma liquid mask
Maybe this will help … http://www.swannysmodels.com/Canopies.html
You got a lot of fantastic tips here…the only tip I can contribute is…Do the canopies first before you do anything else on the plane. That way if you ruin it, you don’t waste too much time…lol Sorry couldn’t help it. Seriously I use the Black mask kits(could be the wrong name) if available. If not the Tamiya tape is awesome. It is slow and tedius, but what isn’t if you want everything perfect?! lol Good luck dude!
THanks for all the great replies. Here is where i may have gone wrong.
1st, i used a tamiya product for the intial coat, i think i will try a enamal next time.
2, lightly score around the edges with a new number 11. Ok, no caffeeenne that day, but i will give it a shot.
On the plus side, i have an extra canopy from the kit to practice on. SO i will maks, paint,a nd try all these techniques before i get another kit.
Thanks BIll
If you used Tamiya acrylic for the initial base coat, I think that is most of your problem. I use Tamiya acrylics a lot, but they just don’t have the adhesion of enamel or laquer. I have run into the same problem as you, painting a canopy with acrylic and then have it rip up when the masking is removed, but I have never had it happen since I started using an enamel to prime the surface before the acrylic. That one thing should help resolve your problem a lot.
If you used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, that is a laquer and should not have pulled up that easily.
Hey Bill,
I too am an armor guy, but I build a lot of wingy thingies…that being said, I used to struggle with the canopy thing, but I got it figured out, (for me, that is).
I’ve tried a lot of the techniques suggested in the thread, but, I just arrived at the simplest method for me;
One roll of Tamiya tape
One roll of scotch blue lo-tack tape
First I mask everything but the horizontal frames, shoot them, let it all dry (no future,etc.). Then peel it off, and mask everything horizontal and spray everything running longways, Touch up with the brush here and there…works everytime and simple. Here are some results;
LOL steve
Mate,
Three words…Bare Metal Foil.
It’s quick, easy, effective, easy, and did I mention it’s EASY???
- Cover the canopy - burnish down the foil.
- Use a new #11 blade to cut along the frames.
- Remove the bits that need to be removed.
- Re-burnish the foil.
- Paint.
- Re-trace the edges of the foil with the #11 blade and remove the foil.
Even the most complicated canopies can be done quickly.
Man, after you’ve tried it you’ll be kicking yourself for not having used it before.
Hey Guys,
I might be crazy…but am I the only one who paints these canopies by hand…?
I just use a great fine size brush…I like camel hair because its soft and is
easy to place the brisles straight after cleaning.
Another trick is to use acrylic like tamiya when painting them…this way if you get a bit
on the ‘glass’ it can be wiped off easily and cleanly…it takes a lot of courage to do it
with enamels.
I use good lighting, smooth paint, and a steady hand…go slow and work neat…i’ve done
a zero, corsair, 109, f-15…just about all of them…I know its slower and takes patience
and more than one coat of paint…but who says you have to rush?
I loved hearing about the foil method as well…something though about using a hobby
knife to cut while on the canopy scares me…but if you mess up there’s always…after
market…or some tamiya kits come with more than one canopy…
That’s just my opinion anyway…
Take care,
Tank
[2c]Hiya crossracer this is just an idea you may want to try,I mask the canopies with Tamiya tape and nothing else do the usual burnishing and cutting but my first coat of paint is an enamel polshed aluminium then I use the acrylic colours over (obviously when enamel is totally dry ) so when or if masking chipping occurs you have instant natural paint chip weathering it sounds silly but it makes mistakes look like they didnt happen
[:)]Cheers
Tony