Bakster: Yeah, gotta agree with the guys here. I’m going to airbrush the whole fret of PE grey and then touch up the attachment points and anywhere else I chip the paint off. Personally I use ‘Gator Grip’ glue on PE, I’ve had much better luck with it than super.
Steve: Sorry! The Sherman started with the smaller mushroom shaped turret with the 75mm gun and later got upgraded with the larger T23 turret with the 76mm gun. If you watch the movie ‘Fury’ you’ll see both types in it. I’ll have to do some more research- I want to model the ship as my uncle served during the liberation of the Philipines. The L’Arsenal tanks are perfect for the earlier model if I need to replace the tanks. Thanks!
I’m going to look around for more photos to comfirm or deny if the bow is correct or not.
BTW, looking for those photo etch helpers, I found only 2 on eBay for a good price but outragous shipping from England or Australia and nothing on Amazon. Looking for other sources, under a diffrent name, this is what I found.
Thanks guys. That’s what i was thinking about the railings since the other stuff will get painted along with what ever they are guled to. The wood deck was the only thing I wondered about.
Speaking about PE. I got something new that I want to try out on the ship.
When I ordered the Flexy CA gule from VMS I saw the Metal Prep 4K. You brush a thin coat over your PE BEFORE painting and it helps hold the paint on better. I’ve always used lacquer primer and it’s been ok. Just wanted to try something new. Here’s a video.
I remember buying mine from China. Truth is a black “greese” pencils will work just as well. You can get them at Stamples of Office Max. Come to think about it, Those are mostly wax and kids crayons are wax too. I bet those would work but not hold them as good.
Oh boy–not good. Figuring that these are only .14ea I’d order 10 and make it worthwhile. They want to charge $2.99 shipping … for each pencil! $29 later–I emptied the cart. I will see what I can find locally. What a bummer.
Now, THAT–I can handle. I totally agree, you can’t beat that price. I will try what KC suggested and if that does not work for me, I will look into what you got.
The decals came from China, they are interesting. I ended up using only the hull numbers from China. I used the depth markings from the Skipjack kit. They are 1/230 scale and the Blueback is 1/200, so they are off a little. I could not find any that were closer.
I got them on tonight:
As near as I can figure the lower sonar dome was not on the boat for long, if at all.
I have some googly eyes I used for detail on another kit that will work. I’m just not sure
it was really on the boat. The onlt reference for it is a side drawing, but that does not
have the “H” tail.
The last thing I need to address is diesel snorkle faring.
Edit:
looks like I’ll have to try and reposition the port side sail numbers.
The carrier breakdown is odd. Unlike most aftermarket decals I’ve used, that are printed on a solid sheet of decal film and need to be cut out, or kit decals that have film around the graphic only, these are grouped together with a few graphics on decal small film sections.
They are also very thick, come off the paper almost on contact with water, and dry very fast. Lastly they dont seem to react to micro sol/set.
