Hey, Matt90, if you want some yippee decals in 1:48 give me a shout at toomanyslurpees@hotmail.com, I bought a hasegawa version of yippee 'cause it was on sale and bought aftermarket decals for it, if you want them they’re yours, other folks on here have hooked me up with bits and pieces in the past so it’ld just be returning the favour. Mike.
Hey Matt, I got your E-mail but for some reason I get a delivery failure notive when I try to reply. I’ll fire those into the mail tomorrow, no worries about trades or anything, I didn’t have any plans to use these.
I tore apart a few old monogram and revell 60’s kits I had built way back when to rebuild them with all the new decals, and accurate paint schemes. Modified them a bit, that’s half the fun.
Buy cheap on ebay for practice…Hey I’d rather goof up a $5 kit then a $50 dollar kit!!
You know what?, instead of bellyaching about a forty year old kit, which by the way, is still a pretty good model, why don’t you see if your skills can do justice to this out of date dinosaur? If these old molds are that devastating to you, use your superior 21st century skills to bring it up to your expectations. Look at it as a challenge! I grew up on these models, and in this case, it looked like a P-38 in 1970, and it looks like one now.
If you are going to shame Revell, you should elevate from a soapbox to a podium, because-a lot of manufacturers do this…welcome to the real world, and in the words of the great one, “just shut up and build”.[:)]
(Now, before all your defenders and lawyers start flogging me, Notice: I’M JUST KIDDING!!)
Speaking of Revell/Monogram and the copyright marks…on my newish 1/48 Monogram F-16, it says that it’s Copyright 2000, on the underside of the mainplane (wing). Except, this mould is from 1975, or thereabouts. If there is one thing to be cheated about, it’s that they haven’t even updated the decal sheet, and the error from the 1970’s is still being repeated, that is, it has two digits of the aircraft designation number the wrong way around. It should read 01567, but actually reads 01576. Damn good decal sheet otherwise though, better than the Tamiya one for the same aircraft. Where the Tamiya has a solid line, the Monogram has the tiny words instead.
Sometimes I would rather take those old kits and turn them in to nice models than build the newer ones that cost two or three times as much and are still not accurate
Well first off most of Revellograms kits are the Monograms kits from the late 60’s through the late 80’s, and in the early 90’s (Revell & Monogram merged) when Pro Modeler came out that’s when their quality caught up with the rest of the kits out there, and yes most of their WWII kits are from the 60’s, 70’s & 80’s but there are alternates for details out there, I’ve been using True Deatils cockpits for their older kits to make them more intresting, and they only cost around $10.00 on top of the cost of the kit but with the AM stuff they are still less expensive the the Japanese releases, and like the R/M P-38 it’s a good kit but is a little out of date, with some TLC and time it’ll be a show stopper, most people forget that Aroura & Monogram set the 1/48 scale standard, and Monogram set the standard for Highly detailed kits in this scale and that P-38 is the first one of the whole line of detailed kits from Monogram (now Revell/Monogram) but with Hasegawa & Tamiya around they pretty much make fairly detailed kits that are of the new “Shake & Take” (throw some glue & paint in the box, shake and wella a nice kit falls out to display) but with that type of modeling there is no room for imagination anymore, no kit bashing ideas, no scratch building details like landing gear bays, weapons bays, engine compartments, or even scratch building complete cockpits, yes there are AM Resin or PE stuff out there but it’s for the folks to pump them out fast to get to the next project,
What I recommend is that with your R/M P-38, if your unhappy with the cockpit get the TD P-38 cockpit ($8.69 at Squadron, but it’s for the Minicraft kit though, but with some mod’s it’ll work just fine) and graft it into the kit this will make it look awsome inside, and then maybe think about rescribing the panel lines and/or scratch building the wheel wells, I’ve done my R/M P-38 with the Eduard PE set (but I think I should have gone for the TD cockpit set) for the Monogram kit, then scratch built the wheel wells and rescribed the panel lines and it still looks just as good as the newer Lightnings that are out there!
Very interesting thread! About 8 or so months ago I was in a hobby shop in a part of town I don’t often frequent and saw on a shelf Revell’s Red Bull B25J Mitchell. I fell in love with it but at the time could not justify buying it. It was still there a month ago, so taking this as a sign and now able to justify buying it, it found it’s way onto my workbench. I started on it last week, and was astonished at the presentation. The box is about 2 ft x 2.5 ft x 5 inches and is actually a sleeve. The sleeve has a hinged cover held closed by a velcro strip, which when opened, gives you, in no less than 16 languages, the history of the B25 and also the Red Bull collection of warbirds. When I slid the box out of the sleeve I found it contained the following: A bottle of glue, a bottle of thinners, 2 paint brushes, 3 tins of Humbrol paints, 2 aerosol cans of chrome laquer, a superb poster of the plane in flight, a dvd and a can of Red Bull. There is also a kit. On starting it last week (and this is why I found this thread interesting) I thought it to be a pretty aged kit. It has raised panel lines but not a single rivet anywhere. The plane itself is completely chromed and the rivets stand out quite prominently. What would be the best way to recreate these please guy’s? There are literaly thousands. If anyone is interested, the website for this plane is: http://photoka.info/b25/index.htm
I don’t want to give away exactly how old I am, but I recall buying the original NEW Monogram P-38 in (I think) 1962. It was superb compared to the Hawk and Lindberg kits of the day. BTW it cost 1 (One) dollar! When I compare them aginst Hasegawa and other high-dollar kits, RM still stand up when you consider the value factor. The wheel wells can be easily scratch-modified so they display better. Just cut some thin flat stock to shape for the ends and sides, also do the same for the boom radiators as well. Now all those hollow problems are gone. I believe the RM P-38 and other 60’s kits will always stand up to any new release when you consider the price.
In Europe the Tamiya reboxes are twice the price of the original Italeri boxes, so it’s the other way around! (it just show how much the whole import/export trade makes!)
Revell has boxes on wich it says that Frog molds are beeing used but that indeed is not the case for a lot of there reboxings.
I don’t understand. How could it say “Revell 1964”, when Revell never made a 1/48 P-38? Could it be 1/32 scale? Even then, Revell didn’t make its 1/32 P-38 until 1970. Something’s fishy here…
If it is in fact the MONOGRAM kit, then it is a nice model.
I am just about done with this kit. It is painted. Just need to add a few details, give it a little bit of weathering, and decal it.
Ill post pics when its done. The kit came in a Revell box, but the plastic was clearly labled “Monogram 1964”
I enjoyed putting it together (this is my 2nd build of this kit). Yes it required trimming, sanding ,etc, but nothing terrible. The worst thing about it is the mistakes I made during painting! I smudged the front antiglare panel with some masking tape while the paint was still soft. D’oh!
I used Testors MM enamels. I used regular Enamel Aluminum instead of the Metalizer. The regular enamel was alot duller (compared to the metalizer) than I had hoped.