sealing my models

Was just wondering what the best way to seal my models would be. I like to use enamel paints, and am partial to model master. Any advice on how or what to use would be great. Thanks guys…

Hi Duogrey,

I’m the same in that I like to use Model Master enamels. I’ve never ever had any problems using the Model Master line of sealers such as their flats, glosses and satins right out of the rattle cans. I’ve also used the Tamiya line of clear coats and, again, I’ve never had an issue with them.

Hope that helps!

Eric

Recently got into airbrushing. Do you know any good products to use through an airbrush?

I use “Future” to seal the paint jobs on my models. It also provides a good base for adding decals and then a good sealer. It can be brushed on or sprayed right out of the bottle. It gives a semi-gloss shine, so if you’re going for a flat finish, you’ll have to use Testors Dullcote (rattlecan) or other flat clears. If you haven’t heard of it before or used it, Future is also great for dipping canopies on aircraft and any clear parts for autos. It takes out fine scratches and protects the plastic. Hope this helps.

Jim [cptn]

It does. I was reading that future is more for acrylics and not that great for enamels. Is that true? But the fact that it’s great on canopies may be worth having a bottle around.

I don’t know for sure, but, I’ve been using it on everything and maybe I’m lucky, I haven’t had any problems with the Future on any paints. I try to use only craft acrylics because they seem to work well for me. Another reason is that the craft paint is a lot cheaper. About $1.30 each minus 40% coupons @ A.C.Moore. One time they had a sale of 3 for $1! I got 30 bottles for $10.00. Sometimes it pays to be a cheap old senior citizen.[;)] The future goes on real well over them. Sometimes I use Model Master enamel paints under and over the Future with no problems. I always use several light coats with plenty of drying time between. The best thing to do is to use it on scrap plastic first. I have a few old models that I keep around to use for testing different paints on.

You might also get a lot of help if you ask that question in the Paint Forum.

Jim [cptn]

I will give the other forums a shot. I used to use acrylic when I painted the old metal miniatures for role playing games years back. Those worked better than the enamels. Maybe I should check out the acrylics in the future. Is it bad that I don’t wanna switch because I like the smell…just kidding [;)]

Duo, I’ve had incredible luck with Poly Scale flat coat. I’ve only used it once and I was extremely impressed! I used it on the interior of my 1/48 B-17G and was surprised at how dead flat it really was. It went on beautifully through my airbrush and I wouldn’t hesitate to use it again when the time comes around. I think I thinned it with isopropryl alcohol but for the life of me I can’t remember the ratio I used. I think it was one of those deals where I just tried something and was simply lucky that I got it right.

Eric

I will have to look into that. I just started using my airbrush. Never used one before and I love it. Now I want to paint everything with it! LOL! I am not adverse to using the old rattle can stuff, but would prefer to have any excuse to use my airbrush. Can’t wait to post my F-18 when I’m done. The detail and ease that the airbrush affords is awesome…

So I went with Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer Finish. First I am from Rockford, IL (the home of Testors) and grew up using them. It also can be airbrushed. My problem is I can’t find anything on how much to thin it. Anybody have any good guidelines on how to thin lacquer in prep for airbrushing? Should it be the same consistency as airbrushed paint? Thanks for all your advice, too BTW!

Why, lacquer thinner, what else? That never failed me back when I used Testors DullCote and GlossCote lacquers. Clean up with the same. But, lacquer will stink up the house, and ya might need to be mindful of pilot lights and other open-flame sources. Those are the main two reasons that I switched to Future for my gloss coats. ymmv…

Cheers, Gary

LOL! But the smell is so good, and I usually work by a torch! [:D] Just kidding…hehe!

I got some lacquer thinner, just don’t know how much to thin it. Think I should just trial and error it? Or do you have a good ratio to use?

Just for future referance, you can indeed use Future over Enamels, i use it all the time. The golden rule is that Avcrylics should go on top of enamels.

Ok, thanks. I do want to use Future for canopies. Guys were saying it is good for that…

I hope someone can help out. I’ve never airbrushed the Testors clear coats on before but it would be nice to find out how others used it and how it turned out for them.

Eric

I am almost to the point of clear coating. Gonna trial and error it. I will keep you posted on what I find. Worse comes to worse, it will just be too thinned out. Then I will keep trying… will let you know.

Hi !

Believe it or not , I use a crafters product .I cannot remember the name . It comes in glosscoat and dullcoat as well as semi-gloss .

It puts out a very fine spray , does NOT damage decals and does a great job . Been using it for years . I believe it is put out by the same company that does the most common crafters paint .

you caan find it at HOBBY LOBBY . MICHEALS has it too . It’s less costly than anything we get at the hobby shop and won’t hurt acrylics or enamels .

This again is an example of crossover modeling .Using a product made for crafters instead of plastic models . Catchya Later - - - -Tanker - builder