Much-thanks.
Three color camouflage (and weathering) is all that is left to do.
I will " test fire " my airbrush this weekend (with any luck) and shoot the camouflage paint.
CG
Much-thanks.
Three color camouflage (and weathering) is all that is left to do.
I will " test fire " my airbrush this weekend (with any luck) and shoot the camouflage paint.
CG
I spent the day looking at camouflage patterns and radio-antenna stuff for the sdkf250
there is a great set of three books on the 250 from “total detail”… out of print, but available from rapidshare download. Countless pictures of 250’s you will not find on Google.
To do the three antenna sdkfz250 correctly, requires a “box stern, drivers side”…
I have one on order from Mike Standard. More parts for the project, and more money and another delay…
CrapGame
Yesterday I started the camouflage for the 250.
Tamiya hull red and nato green both cut with white, then an over spray of there TS-3
what is great about German camouflage is that you can do just about any sort of pattern you like.
I finished half the machine before running out of time and paint.
in black and white
more soon
CG
Paint job looks great.[t$t] Can’t wait to see the weathering.
[dto:] I’ll seccond that.
Phenominal painting.
Actually that is a 250/5 not a 250/3. So if you want to make it a 250/5 just lose the overhead antenna frame and go with the antenna.
Thanks for the information Mikeym. I love the shower curtain antenna, I have to use it . I know your going sdkfz 250 (1) to (12) by the book … BUT check this out :
Clearly shows three antenna(s), check out Rommel’s machine
Clearly shows the second antenna on the wrong side and in the wrong location.
I believe both of these machines started life as sdkfz253’s… Field mods made them sdkfz250’s. The armored visor on the back door of my model makes mine a field-mod 253 as well. Which gives me “lee-way” with antenna placement. Make sense…?
The paint. As I said I ran out. I ordered more, which I should have in a week or so. I am prettty happy with the pattern, although I will still “tweek” it a bit. That is what is fun about German camouflage. As long as the color’s are correct the pattern is " anything goes". Here are a few pictures of some wild ones from my collection
I would not have the guts to model any of the above patterns.
More soon
CG
Over the weekend I finished the three color camouflage, I only need to shoot an over-spray of Tamiya TS-3. I should have the paint tomorrow. Then I can move on to some vehicle-markings and weathering.
I am always looking for cool 250 pictures for ideas. I found this " artists interpretation " of the 250 @ Arnhem.
I like this look a lot. Original gray paint on the drive/road wheels, with a bit of winter white-wash that was not removed. Only the body receiving the late war (field applied) camo-repaint. IMHO, paint like this is very possible.
First step:
airbrushed Tamiya colors nato brown and flat black.
flat white
Real-deal drive wheel
notice the bolted rubber pads around the wheel
I found these resin bolt heads to add to the project
cut and painted
real-deal road wheel, notice the rubber outer ring
my version :
More soon !
CrapGame
Back-side markings and rust :
rust
then
I need to pick a number
More soon
CG
Decided on a vehicle number “217” … Why, no real reason it just looks good.
drivers side
passenger side
and rear
Three options, leave the numbers as-is ( white outline) or add black inside or red inside…
Not sure what do you think?
I also did the front L-plate box. The numbers will be water slide decals, the only decals on the model. (on order)…
Then the curb finders and rear view mirror
Fritz hit something on the passenger side and bent this one
drivers side rear view mirror
real mirror
Please let me know what you think about the “217” numbers …
CrapGame
The numbers look perfect.[t$t]
Thanks jet. I will leave them as-is.
tracks
license plates numbers
front
–
weathering is all that remains…
Today I added the sdkfz250’s tools
jack block
jack
shovel and jack handle
wire cutters
small axe
pad lock for storage bin
and rear mount tow cable
I am getting close, weathering up next.
CrapGame
I carried this thing into the kitchen to shot these shots ( no easy deal, this models weight is about 30lbs) to show you the contrast between the camouflage body and the gray running gear. I got the idea from this painting of the Arnhem 250
please bear in mind the machine still needs a (weathering) wash…
IMHO, the gray running gear and camouflage body make for an interesting sdkfz250. I also think this was a real possibility with field repainted machines.
That is going to be “it” for a while. I have a 52 hour work week ahead of me. I will not have much free time in days to come.
CG
I agree with you on the gray running gear. It really gives it some interest.[t$t]
Hi CG,
I’m about to start the same project, the Monkeydepot delivery just arrived yesterday. I am impressed about your work and i hope that you don’t mind if i follow your footsteps. I could not find what “mike standard” is ? Maby i did not search enough ? I will make mine RC and also with working suspensions. I will post it and give you the link. I also have a Tiger 1 project going on and also a Dragon kettenkrad which i finished to make it RC. I will scratchbuild a lot of the parts if i get good info on them. Looking forward to your input, thanks
tigertiki
CG…Your sdkfz 250-3 is really like good.[Y]
I really appreciate your up close “VISUAL” tutorials. I picked up some valuable techniques that I must use.
Thanks a bunch for sharing.
Great build; love the 250’s, too. Have a 250-9 coming. U should do an article. By the way, how did U choose interior color & what color is it? Also, how did U do the ruxt? Thnx [:D[
Nice photos. I’m currently building several sdkfz 250 neu in 1/35 scale and I need those nice reference books. Do you have the rapideshare links to these books?