I’m in the process of scratch building a Mossie 1/32 cockpit to replace the monstrosity that comes with the Revell kit, and I’m having trouble making the knobs on the radio box that’s sat behind the co-pilot on the “parcel shelf” [;)]
They’re basically palm sized dials (about 2mm at 32nd scale) that have 6-8 finger sized indentations round the edges. I’ve tried drawing a circle on styrene, drilling the holes and then cutting it out, but it isn’t working. I’ve also tried cutting sections off styrene rod & then using a file to make the indents. Again, no joy. How can I achieve the effect I want?
Also, how can I simulate the knurled (textured) edges of dials?
I dont know if you have access to a good LHS in your corner of jolly old England, but you can obtain styrene rod on the appropriate diameters and simply section cut knobs, dials whatever. You know like slicing a sausage…what. you can also look right at what you’ve purchased. The sprue trees can be sectioned in the same way. Use a razor saw or a number 11 knife and slice away.
To simulate knurling, just make small register cuts around the periphery with a # 11 x-acto. Two mils is fairly large, so you should have no issues.
Are you doing the modification, i.e. simulating the knurling and the finger holes, while before slicing the knob off the stryene rod? Just asking, because that’s the kind of common sense lapse I make at least once daily while modeling.
You can get gears for walkmans, they use gears of several sizes and could look like knobs if you sand a little the edges and slice it; I never tried it but could work for you.
If you cant find such a small torx,try this.
Use a rod a little smaller than your knob.
Press it carefully into plasticine.
with a smaller piece of sprue,try to “sculpt” the surrounding area.
you have to make a negative knob.
Then you just cast it with resin or even instant glue or liquid plastic.
If I use plasticine as a mould, would I need to use something as a release agent? Would GT85 do? It’s a solvent carried PTFE lubricant I use on my mountain bike. The solvent carrier evaporates and leaves a layer of PTFE behind. Would it work?
I was thinking of using 2 part epoxy resin as the moulding compound, but would that react with the plasticine? Suppose I could do a quick trial to test it out first eh?
The Torx idea sounds pretty good, but they have only six points. How about if you drag a razor saw or hacksaw blade down a length of styrene rod? When you are satisfied that the grooves are uniformly spaced around the entire circumferance, slice off a few knobs. Take a smaller diameter piece of rod and superglue it to the back for the shaft, but leave it long so you can work out the final shaping, then cut the shaft to length.
Let’s see some photos once you’ve decided what works best!
you dont have to use any release agent as you can clean it easy from plasticine with a toothbrush and a little gasoline!
For moulding those small pieces I always use instant glue with a help of a cigarette.The smoke from a cigarette is ideal as a kicker for instant glues!
I’m using these technique at my 1/76 tanks to mold tiny pieces as hatches and bolts!
Heres something I forgot.
We can use trimmed plastic trees from a kit.
Trim a big piece of tree from a kit(sprue) to a shape you want.In this case this one.
Then heat it just like the same with sprue.
The finished sprue was just like the bigger prototype but with a much smaller diameter!!!
Well, I’ve created a few moulds from blu-tak (used for hanging posters in the UK), and playdoh (that almond smelling putty), and used CA as the filling. Apart from the goop attaching to the finished item, they’re coming out ok, and I just need a little time & fiddling to get it done right.
It has made me a bit curious about casting in resin though, and I’ve ordered a starter kit from a sculptors’ suppliers here in the UK. I’m quite pleased with some of the parts I’ve been making (the radio boxes mainly), and was thinking of casting up a few copies of each for use myself & for sharing with a few people I know that have the 1/32nd Mossie in their stash.
It’d also make it easier to work with the casts, as I could sculpt them further, and add additional detail without worrying about bits dropping off!