In deafpanzer’s Chaffee thread, Roy posted a link to Steve Zaloga’s magnificent dissertation on Olive Drab. It can be read here, for those of you who missed it or didn’t check out the thread:
However, for those of you who didn’t bother reading the whole thing, there was this one very interesting section which, naturally jumped out at me. You all know I’m a big proponent of “scale effect” and of lightening and “post shading” finishes, and that stressing yourself out about “exact” colors is unnecessary. I thought it was really interesting what Zaloga had to say on the “scale effect”, as he had observed and tested it. Admittedly, I have highlighted the passages that support my opinion on this matter…[:$]
"Having matched the colours to actual colour chips, how about use on models? There has been a long running argument between two contending camps, who I shall dub the scientists versus the artists. The scientists argue that a colour is a colour is a colour, and that hobby paint should exactly match the official colour chip. The artists argue that the use of an exact match creates an unrealistic looking model due to scale effect. A full-size vehicle painted in Olive Drab viewed from some distance away will appear to be a lighter colour than a small chip examined at close quarters. I tend to side with the artists over the scientists on this issue, as I think that models painted in precise matches of dark colours like Olive Drab look unrealistically dark.
To test this theory, I primed and painted a 2 foot x 3 foot panel of Plexiglas (Perspex) using Tamiya Olive Drab. This is not intended to be scientific proof, but to provide at least some rough evidence on the controversy. After establishing a proper white balance for the camera, I photographed the test panel from a distance of 15 feet using a high-resolution digital camera (Nikon Coolpix 995) under direct sunlight on a day with low humidity. I then transferred the image to my computer along with the Olive Drab colour chips and the various hobby paint colour chips. Using Adobe Photoshop for measuring the colours, I compared the sample panel with the colour chips. This supported the scale effect argument. The Olive Drab on the panel when photographed from a distance had the appearance of a colour about 15-17% lighter than the Olive Drab colour chip, and with slightly less colour saturation. This effect changes with lighting conditions, the angle of the panel to the sun, reflectivity, etc."
Interesting article! I don’t really have a horse in this race though. To me, modeling is getting more and more complicated. To be honest, I don’t take anything into account regarding color. I mix my own for the most part and if it looks good to me then that is how its going on the model. Most of the time, my colors get lightened during the post shade and weathering process. I’m either not a stickler for accuracy or I’m just lazy…I haven’t decided which yet.
I agree with you Doog about “scale effect” on colors , but i’m also in agreement with Ron about mixing my own colors and if it looks good then thats fine . I like to see a well weathered model but i also like to look at a museum quality paint job … they both are representative of the actual machine . Then there is the " what if " factor , i like that also .
For me the lighting when the picture is taken and photo editing are big factors in what the finished model color will look like .
I haven’t the skill to worry about scale in paint colors and I’m not anal enough to count the number of bolts on the road wheels of a Panther D vs the number of bolts on the road wheels of a Panther A.
Amongst historical re-enactors, there is a sub-species called “Khaki Nazis” or “Stitch Nazis”. They actuall obcess over the number of stitches in the cuff of an M1941 field jacket and believe that the accurate color for WWII G.I. uniforms is a golden khaki.
I see this in model building. For the most part, if the final result is pleasing to the eye of the constructor, then mission accomplished. We all focus on certain things when we build a model. Some tank builders are obcessed with rust and mud (golly gosh, I thought were building a model of a Jagdpanzer IV Lang, not a pile of mud and grease). Aircraft modelers obcess over the interior paint color of a disposable suicide Baka/Oka flying bomb.
Get a grip, folks. Its supposed to be fun. Enjoy the historical research and the sense of accomplishment. But really, does it really matter how many bolts are the road wheels of a specific model of tank? Sheesh! [:^)]
I find that article to be very interesting…I think I fall somewhere inbetween the two: scientists and artists, leaning a bit more to the artistic side. I don’t obsess over exact shades most of the time but I also don’t subscribe to the “anything goes” as long as you are happy with it point of view either…
I lean toward the artistic side my self. I am a proponent of scale effect, and feel that panel fading and weathering contribute to the overall presentation.
Many folks have devoted many years to research, essentially proving what? US tanks were OD, Panzers were dark gray then later, dark yellow. There are so many variables that to me, close is good enough. Field applied camo is just that, random. There were no patterns per se, and the painting was performed by whoever had the sprayer, brush or mop.
Building a model is essentially taking a 3D photo. We capture the subject forever, in that particular moment in time. Who’s to say that my PzIII is incorrect or Doog’s magnificent Hetzer isn’t properly painted?
We had a saying in the police department: If you weren’t standing next to me when it all went down, don’t question my actions.
None of us were around 70 years ago, 1941 is truly the dark side of the moon. I feel we are only paying homage to those folks who, so long ago, fought bravely for their ideals. I continue to do so with as much artistic talent these old hand s can muster.
While I agree that the ‘scale effect’ undoubtedly exists, I don’t really give it much thought. I fall into the ‘if it looks good enough’ camp. I’m not going to agonize over whether or not my paints are lightened enough to represent what the model would look like in full size from X feet…
Considering the degrees of weathering that most go to these days, I think the impact of the scale effect is often lost once all the weathering is applied…
As usual (no sucking up, just sayn’) Manny prettty much nails it. I’m sorta in the middle myself. I use MM enamel becuase they seem to be pretty accurate, but I’m not overly anal about. I like the historical research and don’t apply divisional markings to vehicles never issued to those units.
But still, unless you’re interested in entering competitions (I’m not), then build it to your satisfaction. Besides we tend to be our own harshest critics.
I have another take on scale effecdt . Have you ever taken a Macro setting close up of your model , an area that is 2 inches square on the actual model , then after loading it into your computer that same area fills up the entire screen … all a sudden you see every piece of fiber / hair that was within 300 ft of your model attached to your work of art and making your model look like it was drug across the floor of a barber shop ! Now thats Scale Effect !!!
I remember a story about scale effect. This railroad modeler made a friend with someone that worked at Santa Fe. From his friend he obtained a small can of Santa Fe blue. When he painted his diesel engine that colored, it was way too dark, looked almost black the blue was so dark.
The paints offered to modelers are tinted down to represent this. I beliee to a scale of 1/35 or 1/48. I was told by older hobbyists to add white to color for 1/72 scale kits.
Interesting to read all comments! I am glad I read the article before I went farther with my Chaffee. Now it made me wonder if there is similar articles about Panzer Grey and Dark Yellow too? I’d like to read those… [:D]
I myself think that if it looks right and I’m happy with it, then its good enough for me. I’m the one who will see it every day on my shelf. If I think its good enough to post then I will do so and will take any advice and critique…or not. If I’m going for historical accuracy then I might be a bit more anal. I guess I side with the artists.
I have the exact issue when takings pictures of my braille scale builds. Even a thorough dusting just before a photo session does not get all the fluff either!
