Sanding/filing- Electric or manual

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Tools
1

I believe a great sanding/filing job ranks right up there with the paint job in determining a professional looking model.

Having said that I find manual sanding/filing (as on seams/putty work) to be very tedious, tiring, and time consuming. So much so that many times I find myself thinking that the sanding/filing job I’m doing is “good enough” when it fact I know it isn’t.

I have a regular Dremel tool but that sucker even on the lowest setting spins way to fast to be useful unless you’re removing lots of material. It makes a hot knife though butter slow by comparison.

Is anyone aware of a rotary-like tool that spins at a lower speed or designed for hobby work?

What rotational speeds do I need to be looking for to do sanding and filing of plastic models?

2

I have to admit I find sanding tedious as well, but my dremel either removes way to much material, or melts plastic. I always manualy sand filled seams, it is the only way I have found to have enough control to avoid removing too much material.

3

I’ve never heard of a machine that would turn slowly enough to do a good job. My belief is that sanding is a pain, tedius and boring, but if it was easy then everyone would be an expert modeler.

4

I have the old Dremel Solid State Speed Control for the 70’s and it works great. They on Ebay for about 10 bucks

5

I mentioned it before but . . . I use a dremel. And you’re right, it can, easily, do damage. BUT. You can, easily, get around that. I take the pin thats supposed to hold sanding disks, I cut sanding disks out of 1000 (or higher) with a circle cutter and use that, on slow.

It works because I keep the disks small, like inch or a little better, so your edge speed stays pretty low, and because 1000 isnt aggressive enough to really chew things up. With A or B weight paper the disks flex and the edge cant really dig in. And if you force more than a light touch, the disk folds and is useless, so you almost cant damage things because if you force it the disk wont let you. Its more for removing scratches and polishing. I tried it faster, not a good idea. I tried it with 600. Ditto.

It wont solve all your sanding woes, but it makes some of them a lot faster.

6

Do you just cut the sanding paper and put it on the post or do you put anything behind it to add some reinforcement?

I think if i just had a thin piece of sandpaper on a dremel it wouldnt give enough pressure to work?

7

Micro-mark sells an electric sander for modeling for about $70. It has different shaped heads and goes back and forth instead of in a circle. I’ve never tried it, but remember looking at it in their last catalog thinking “if only I had the $$$”. . .

8

No I dont back it up. That actually helps keep you from gouging, since the light paper makes you have a light touch.

9

Honestly, I don’t understand the problem. I have an old Bosch PSR 96, like the one in the picture, and it can go as slow as I want it. The stronger you pull on the trigger, the faster it goes; with slightest pull it goes like 1 turn every ten seconds. I have no problem whatsoever with it having “too much” speed - or “too little” for that matter. It can do pretty much anything, with the exception of it being a bit large; but I’ve learned to use it.

10

There’s a really simple way to slow down your dremel/rotary tool. Plug it into one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYEF6/ref=pd_cp_hi_title/104-9384501-9893542?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_r=09X2FXD669SAE1AVF448&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_i=B00004YUOJ

A simple plug in dimmer switch. Or if you want to sound super fancy around your friends, a potentiometer; a variable resistance device.

The idea is to limit the voltage to the tool. If you set the dremel to the lowest setting and you turn the dimmer way down, you should have a fairly slow tool.

-Fred

11

Here is what I use as a slow running sander and it is fairly inexpensive to make.

I have used this to sand/file plastic, all types of fillers (Squadron, Mr. Surfacer, Testors Red, and CA). I have also used it to sand photo-etched and other parts made of metal as well as wooden parts.

The three major items are:

1: A battery operated toothbrush one that has replacement heads (the one in the picture is an Oral-B Cross Action). Cost around $10.00 or in my case $5.00 as a clearence item.

2: A Marvy Uchida Craft Punch - 1/2" inch Hole. Cost around $5.00

3: Mounting Dots 1/2 diameter x 1/8 thick double sided adhesive form used in scrapbooking. Cost between $2.00 - $5.00

First I cut off all the brush bristles on the round brush head and filed the ends down till they were flush with the carrier piece (round disk that the britles are mounted in).

I the case of this type of brush head I removed the bottom section completely from the brush head unit.

Next apply one of the mounting dots to the face of the round brush head area and then using the punch cut off a circle of what ever grit sand paper you what to use and attach it to the other side of the mounting dot.

Also since the mounting disks are made of foam and the toothbrush was made to be rinsed under water it works great for wet sanding and polishing, which is kinda hard to do with an electric tool. Something I seem to recall from childhood science class about Electricity + Watrer = crispy critter [xx(]

Disclaimer: Test the adhesive on the dots to make sure it does not soften and get gooey in water, before sanding your model.

Also with the style of toothbrush above you can purchase replacment head units, so you can set up different types of grits and just pop them on the brush when needed.

Now gentlemen start your brushes and sand away. [swg]

Cheers,

Thom

12

I use a system much like Thom’s except I attach the sandpaper to the head w/velcro. I discovered that the local dime store had circular shaped velcor pads that were the perfect size to fit the rotating head of the toothbrush. Come in packs of 12 for something like $1.79 and have their own adhesive backin (which so far seem to be waterproof). I simply took the sandpaper, stuck it to one side of the velcro and trimmed it to size w/a small pair of scissors. I keep 3 or 4 each of fine, medium and coarse sandpaper on hand and just switch them when needed. Another benifit is that the velcor gives the sandpaper a “cushion” that lets me do some complex curves very easily.

13

Thom, Quincy,

About how long do the batteries last?

14

mitsdude,

I get about 3-6 months of usage, but that is also based off my build time. And I have a set of re-chargable batteries that I use.

Cheers,

Thom

15

Hmm, thinking laterally (and being a skinflint when it comes to avoidable tools) would the same toothbrush, velcro pad combination make a cheap paint tinlet shaker?

I’m thinking Revell/Humbrol type tinlets, attach velcro pad to base or side (check lid is firmly attached) attach

to velcro pad on toothbrush head (possibly with a small ball bearing added to the paint) and switch on.

Anyone tried this, any success?

Cheers,

OhOh

16

mitsdude,

I’ve had mine for about 7 months now and the batteries are about ready to be replaced - going to pickup a set of rechargibles. Of course you’ll have to get your own and determine aproximately how long the batteries will last - really depends on how much and often you use it. On a side note, I picked up 2 more electric toothbrushs yesterday at the Dollar General Store - on clearance for 50 cents each - going to set things up so I have fine, medium and coarse, each on it’s own toothbrush.