Hey guys,
I want to simulate Road Wheel damage, but i don’t have a motorized tool. Is there any other way to simulate reaslitc roadwheel damage?
Thanks…
Hey guys,
I want to simulate Road Wheel damage, but i don’t have a motorized tool. Is there any other way to simulate reaslitc roadwheel damage?
Thanks…
Just use your hobby knife to scratch and remove little chunks from the ‘rubber’ bands. [8D]
IIRC from my tanker days in the '70s we ccould have 50% of the rubber off a road wheel before it was considered unservicable. that would be condsidered ESC Red (readiness criteria Red, Yellow, Green). i recall my CSC company commander getting annoyed when i left one of my mortar tracks behind in an alert because of this. (i was also the company motor officer). he asked if it was driveable. i said yes. he said you made your point. go get it.
BTW on M60A1s,A2s (my tank), A3s the roadwheels are aluminum so no rust. the insides have a steel wear plate to rub against the center guides and that will get a patina on it after sitting a week. 10 km road march cleans that right up.
However, it is still a relevant issue to any builder who needs to learn. As a teacher, we believe there are no bad questions.
Bill
The A3s and late A1 RISE/Passive tanks used a mix of aluminum and old style steel wheels.
In this photo of me and my A3 in 1988 in Graf, the idler and #3 road wheel are finned aluminum and the other visible road wheels are steel. The rule was the two wheels on the same road wheel arm had to be the same, both aluminum inner and outer or both steel inner and outer, never mixed.
You can scuff up the road wheel with an X-Acto knife, file or sandpaper.

good to know. it may have been that way on my 2 M60s and 4 A1s when i first got to germany in JAN75. we transitoned to A2s in JUL75 and i took the mortars in JAN77.