Ok guys, I am working on my first piece of armor, a Tamiya 1/35 Panther Type G early version. I am a bit stuck on the road wheel painting. How the hell do you guys paint the black on the wheels without screwing up the rims? Is there a neat little trick you guys keep secret? I tried the thinner capillary trick with a paintbrush, and it got me nowhere. I tried to mask it, but the lip is too thin for the tape to stick well. And of course when I free-hand it, it looks like I am drunk at 3 AM using my paintbrush like a chopstick. I have 24 wheels I need to paint (8 of them are already assembled, the other 16 are halves) and so far have screwed up at least 15 of them…lol And how do you guys touch-up when you accidentally bump your elbow and paint a line on the lip?! Thanks for you help in advance!!
I use circle templates. Bought them at an office supply store. I paint the outter ‘tire’ first, then using the template I carefully spray the ‘wheel’ whatever color it should be. Works for me!
Glenn
Alot of the guys here use a black marker, like a fine tip Sharpie. It goes on glossy, but your final flat coat will dull it down fine. I also sometimes will put the wheel on a toothpick or the end of a paint brush so it fits snuggly (but not so tight that it won’t come off easily), hold it in my left hand and hold the brush with black paint to it with the other, then slowly spin the wheel, holding the brush still. Works well if you’re careful, just have to take your time.
You might find using a dark gray, such as Tamiya’s German Gray, would give you more a scale “black”. Circle template works great for airbrush…by hand? All I can say is stop with the martinis – and practice, practice, practice.
Bud
Hmmm…all the templates and other tricks sound good, but I’ve always just painted them with a brush…stick the wheel on a toothpick, and paint the rubber! Never had a problem with that method. Get a little rubber on the rim? Wipe it off immediately, or touch it up with the rim color later.
Couldn’t be easier!
I second the marker. Easy and it looks real nice after drybrush and flat coat. My hand shakes when I try to paint
IMO a brush works best, but whichever way you decide, you really need to brace your wrists against the edge of your hobby table to give yourself a stable platform.
My hand shakes when I try to use the sharpie! each to his own…eh?
Glenn
How very true!
My technique is the same as J-Hulk’s and is simple…an Optivisor, a good 20/0 brush, and patience. I don’t use masks, templates, or Sharpies.
I’ve always done it by hand with the old brush also. Been thinking about getting some of those templates.Not to sure about the marker thing.
I wasn’t either and the first time I did it (prior to flat coat) I thought I would have to go back over it. SPrayed some acrylic flat and all the shine and irredecent look completely dissapeared. Looks just like if you painted it flat black. Thats why I go back over with a quick dark gray dry brush and some weathering powder.
I’m on the J-Hulk side of the room. I usually let the molded rim be my brush guide and do it by hand–bracing my hands vewwy carefully of course!
I rest the backs of my wrists against the edge of the table. I hold the model or part in my left hand (I’m right-handed) and extend the last two fingers of my left hand to create a rest for my right hand. It may sound awkward, and it may feel awkward at first, but it keeps me steady!
Good advice, all!
And don’t forget, if painting the road wheels, applying the camo and decals, doing the indy link tracks, and doing all the weathering becomes too much of a nightmare for you, Tamiya indeed has the ultimate answer:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/masterwork/21007.htm
And people said there wasn’t a market! [;)][:D][:D]
Now to get a job making those and selling them! The ultimate dream
Whoa J-Hulk, I never said I screwed up the wheels enough to be that desperate!!! [:P][:P][;)] Thanks all for the awesome tips…I’m glad to know it’s not just me. I think that it is the fact there are so many…it becomes a bit overwhelming. I will keep pushing on those bad boys, and try to wrap them up soon. Thanks again all!!!
mount wheels on toothpick. spin the wheel slowly, sharpie in right hand braced against the left, gently apply sharpie to wheel, spin slowly… perfect every time.
I use the sharpie. There is a nrew dual end sharpie out now, one with a ultra fine point on one end, and a regular on the other. I do them attached to the sprue, then after clean up, hit them again to cover up any spots that I’ve sanded.
I used to fill in the rim section with playdo and spray over the mask, these are perfect everytime. The Panther wheels below were done with a sharpie; can ya yell???
Steve
The Jagdpanther here was also done the sharpie method
Better pics here
http://jasonwest7529.fotopic.net/c307100.html
Heh heh! [:D]
It was just a joke, of course!! [;)]
Ya know, sometimes I add the wheels to the vehicle, then paint later, particularly on kits where the wheels are free to roll. It’s easy to slowly spin them as you paint.
One more point to consider is that unless you’re modelling a showroom vehicle, the weathering is going to cover a lot of your rubber/rim separation. Thus, a perfect separation is not all that important. Look at ref pix…often you cannot even tell there’s any rubber at all! The entire wheel/tire combo becomes one solid earth-tone color.
Just some more angles to consider!