I started doing some 1/35 military figures (WWII infantry). The kits are good, and I’ve enjoyed learning to work with acrylic paints, but one thing that bothers me is that the kits lack rifle slings and helmet chin straps. How do you folks model these? What do you use for material, and how do you paint it and mount it to the figure? Thanks in advance for any help.
Dan H.
Wine bottle foil, used on some import wines, is excellent for this. It can be cut with a #11 and a straight edge just about as thin as you want. It holds a natural droop. You can paint it with any paint and attach it with super glue.
Is there someplace where you can buy just the foil without the wine?
I once got a piece of 2"x3" lead foil in an AM detail kit, that I really like for making seatbelts and straps for rudder pedals. I just wish I could find more of that stuff.
-Fred
The foil on the tops of wine bottles is becoming increasingly rare as they go to plastic.
The aluminum used in TV dinners and their ilk is a little thicker, and more work to get—assuming you can stomach the original contents.
There is another source of thin, flexible, and preprimed heavy foil: metal toothpaste tubes. We use Tom’s of Maine toothpaste, which comes in metal tubes, not the wasteful plastic ones so common in the major brands.
What you have to do with these is not roll them up as you use the toothpaste. Just flatten them against the countertop, pushing the contents toward the cap. When the tube is empty, use electrician’s or similar heavy scissors to cut off the top inch or so near the cap, as it is too wrinkled to be useful. Save the cap—it makes a great container for a small amount of paint. Cut off the bottom end at the fold, then cut along one edge. Carefully (the edges are SHARP!) open the flattened former tube and rinse out the remnants of the toothpaste. The resulting sheet can be burninshed flat, and is useful for straps, bands, clothing, etc. on figures. It can also be used to replace panels on aircraft or vehicles.
I have two boxes of this stuff, and nobody dares roll of fold a toothpaste tube in this house! [(-D]
I found this place here that has both lead foil sheets AND PE slings and other harnesses for 120mm figures (I don’t know if that’s 1/35 or what) http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplies_folder/ScratchBuildingSupp/Scratch_Building.html
If I can’t find another place that has it, I may get a selecton of lead foil from these guys.
-Fred
I’v never used any of the stuff above. I dont know how thick the foil is on a bottle or the toothpaste. If someone has a mic. around I’d be interested.
However I (at work) use various foils for shim stock and working with some harder steels. We use a differant brand than this, but, it’s the same stuff. You get quite a bit and can order what thickness you want down to .0005". Even in verious materials.
I know I’v been meaning to try it in this same situation. You can cut it with scissors and even an exacto if it’s the smaller size. I plan to try it as straps, slings, belts etc. Anyway food for thought. BTW usually suppliers of this stuff are also great suppliers of punch and die sets though usually bigger than modelers use.
Wine bottle foil seems to be almost the norm up here in Canada. I keep plenty around (the foil, not the wine), and just measured it at .003".
Hey thanks for the info ruddratt. Not much of a wine drinker myself so never had any to measure or compare to the shim stock.
I did figures for several years and initially used paper to make slings, belts and Load Bearing Equipment - actually worked quite well
Then I got about 25 lbs of thin lead sheet from my dentist - the small x-ray film he used was packed in it - came in two sizes 1"x1" and 2" x 1". Made great slings, belts and LBE and does a better job of molding to the model on installation - still use it (25 lbs is a near lifetime supply) for seat belt on my aircraft models. Check with your dentist to see if he can help you (one suggestion - if you do get some from your dentist, take it home and boil it for a few minutes - just as a precaution - my wife insisted on doing that)
Speaking of precautions…
Lead is quite toxic, and is surprisingly easily absorbed. One of the most readily absorbed forms is “white lead,” or lead oxide, once called sugar of lead (because it forms on lead and tastes sweet). This is the whitish powder that forms on lead surfaces, and is very soluble in water.
Always wash your hands after handling lead, especially before eating, drinking, or smoking if any of you are still addicted to nicotine.
Boiling the lead sheet you get from the dentist is almost certainly not necessary, as no modern dentist is going to allow lead anywhere near a patient’s oral cavity.
Cool idea - I just can’t see paper hanging right, and lead foil seemed like a good idea. Recycling toxic lead from medical supplies sounds like recycling at it’s best. Thanks.
Dan
I’ve been modeling WWII figures for over 40 years and came up with this idea from another source and still use the idea. Masking tape, cut off about two - three inches of 1/2inch wide tape, lay it flat on your workbench, paint the tape the color of chin straps, slings or what ever. Cut strips that are the width of straps (approx 1/32 of an inch) with a razor knife and attach to the model with Superglue.
I use the following method to detail the figure’s helmets; The U.S. soldier rarely buckled the chin strap so I let the two halfs hang down, photos make a great reference for this, and in the case of attaching the chin strap around the back of the helmet, that is great looking as well.
Rifle slings are easily done as well. The slings usually had loops at either end so simply overlap the ends of your “strap” back onto the long part to make it look as if there are loops. Attach with Superglue, or as I am starting to do now, with Elmer’s Glue, which works fairly well.
I use Acrylic paints exclusively for all of my models including my HO scale RR. To speed up the drying on any model whether figures, armor, Aircraft or dioramas I use a hand held hairdryer set on LOW heat which actually sets the paint faster, creating a very strong coat of paint.
See what you think,
johncpo
I took your suggestions, and here’s the result. I used metal foil from a toothpaste tube, cut it to size, then folded the ends over as a sling would be and glued the ends down. Then I cut the loop on each end so it would slip over the solid sling swivels on the figure. the metal slides are tiny pieces of masking tape. Glued it to the figure, and painted with acrylics. Not too shabby, if I do say so myself. This pic was taken before the final coat of flat acrylic, but all in all it looks pretty good.
Dan H.
I like to use the tube from dried out Testors contour putty. It comes apart in nice layers. It also cuts very nice with a razor and straightedge.
SST