The Arizona is on hold until I can clear up some paint issues I’m having. Not the ship or color, just learning to use a new paint. Old dog, new tricks kinda deal lol.
Awh ;
You’ll do it .Have faith in yourself !
Thanks Tracy :
I couldn’t ,for the life of me, remember what type of guns were supposed go there ! T.B.
Going to have to get some primer looks like. Darn it, another trip to the hobby shop…
Thanks Tracy. I’ll be sure to pass this on, Joe
Managed to get some Tamita rattle can primer, both white and grey. Used the white, went down perfectly! The MM Acryl 5-L Light Grey also went down without a hitch. Swapped airbrushes for the red, from my Badger 200 to my Central Pneumatic (Harbor Freight) double action and, well, managed to make a mess of things. Lack of practice with the airbrush showed when I managed to pull the trigger back too far and shoot way more paint on a spot than I intended. Now I have a nice, big run to sand out and redo. May just redo the entire bottom while I’m at it, only this time with my Badger, despite the narrow spray pattern.
I built that same kit last year. Here are some pictures of it. I hope you like them. If you have any questions just ask.
I was just looking at this book review…
…I know so little about that ship, just looking at the online sample photos is a help for building my Revell kit.
Those out of the box builds look really good.
Fascinating stuff. The drawings in those Kagero books are really outstanding.
My only complaint with the series has to do with the titles. (Warning: this is from an Olde Pharte who’s on a crusade to eliminate “quarter scale” as a substitute for 1/4" = 1’, and practically barfs when he sees “build” or “etch” used as a noun.)
Folks, if a drawing is printed on a flat piece of paper, it isn’t 3D. Those drawings are either isometric or in perspective.
I’m not going to let that curmudgeonly caveat stop me from buying the books, though.
I helped a wee bit with the Kagero book - I can’t get Spru-ce Goose’ last post to come up but I presume that’s what’s being talked about based on the professor’s response.
It’s not completely accurate, so I would use it as a good start and then compare details. Waldek and I didn’t find each other until two days before his CAD was due, so there was only time to correct some gross errors (he had wood on the top level of the superstructure for example, when it was metal. There are a couple of shots earlier in the book that are “distant” where you can still see this if you look for it).
That’s a great thing about ship models though, you can build a great looking ship with just basic skills, but if you want to go all out and really learn about the ship and crew, there’s always opportunities to find details to add or improve.
It would be fair to say they are in “3D”. The title conveys the idea well.
The books are printed such that the images are 3Dish when viewed with supplied 3D glasses. In my opinion it’s a gimmick that adds no value to a reference material. It certainly doesn’t detract from their utility as such, but there’s nothing about a 3D view that helps a model builder more than straight up plans and isometric views.
Ain’t that the truth!
Impossible to scale from. I suppose it does explain certain spacial relationships though.
Always wondered why Playboy never went 3D.
Been trying to get back to this build and finish it up. After a disaster painting the hull I need to strip it back to bare plastic and start over. Before I do I need one bit of advice regarding the black strip around the waterline: Should it be the same width regardless of the underturn of the hull at the stern or should it have the same visual width as viewed from the side? Curious minds (and frustrated painters) need to know!
Known as boot topping, the black stripe was designed to hide the black stains that would cling to a ship from oil and other harbor scum. As such, it was the same height as viewed from the side. Masking this on a curved hull can be a P.I.T.A., but I give some tips here that might be of some help.
My MO is to paint the red first, mask off, paint the black, mask off, and then paint the hull color/camouflage. Due to the way most hulls curve (Arizona’s ram bow is a bit different, but shouldn’t really factor in this case), I find it easier to handle the curves and bubbles tape wants to leave this way. “Best practice” is to paint light paints first, and if that was our primary concern, we’d do the hull red and boot topping last, but by going top to bottom, the paint “step” (due to paint creating an edge against the tape) is down as you look down, and is less noticeable than might otherwise be the case.
Well, as the Kagero book was available at Squadron Shop and would be my only reference on the ship ( unless I get hold of an old Cagney movie on DVD ) , I will use it as a starting point for building and painting my Revell kit.
If you can point out any other gross errors in the book to watch out for besides wood decks, I’d appreciate it.
Thanks for the input.
Nice work, both Tarasdad and Jsmyth!
I stand sort of corrected. I didn’t know about the 3D glasses. I guess what we’re talking about is something conceptually similar to the old “stereopticon” photos.
I’ve got a book of Civil War stereo pictures (complete with cheap viewer). Fascinating - but I agree: the idea doesn’t have much use for model building.
Indeed ![:D]