“On the masthead, it’s–from top down–an all-around white light; an all-around red; and the 135° masthead white.”
Hey Capn, more questions. I plan to build all three lights but only light the 135 masthead white. I believe the last one is the one you said I should light. My question is this. For the red light, is the lens red or are they using a red bulb? Would you know?
I would. Lens is red until the last 4 years or so, when powerful enough LEDs became available.
Red lense means only needing to stock one kind of incandescent lamps for the fixtures.
I figured you would. Thanks for the info!
Btw. I ordered the PE. Will see how it looks. [Y]
If you decide to go with the motorized radar/ weather array …
I have a few of those “vibrating” motors.
They have an elliptical cam on the end of the shafts. That’s what makes the phone vibrate/dance. Their easily removable.
I used one to make working windshield wipers on a 1/87 scale locomotive.
They worked great … but I’m NEVER doing that again !!!
If you want, I could send some your way.
Cap is right, you will need some resistors to slow them down.
Thanks for the offer and I will let you know if I go that route. So you said that you will never do that again. Why?
Here is what I am up to.
I made and installed a bulkhead just forward of the last brace on the right. The reason for the bulkhead is that the model had it open and light would pour out from there.
LEDs are wired and installed. I went with three LEDs to distribute light more evenly. I went with yellow to mimic incandescent.
Sprue-goo was used to seal gaps on the bulkhead assemblies and to strengthen the connections.
I had to turn off the main light to show the effect. My camera phone was not capturing it. And of course, no light blocking is in place yet. You must use your imagination at this point.
The top deck above the cabin area is not attached. That piece is gonna be a bear to attach. Something towards the stern is causing it to not seat properly. I will need to look at that more closely. I wanted to attach that section after paint because I didn’t want to deal with masking the portholes and I planned to make the windows from the inside. But… in light of how badly that piece fits… I might have to attach it with copeous amounts of glue and that is best done before paint. Time will tell. If I can figure out the fit issue… maybe not a problem. Worst case I have punches that I can make masks and it should reduce the pain of masking.
Btw. I purchased UV resin to make the windows. I have not tried the stuff before for that and I want to give it a whirl. I will first experiment on some scrap.
Some pics of local trawlers for you. Will get on board a couple next week for some better shots.
Sorry about the quality of the photos. Just from my phone and some trouble with shaky hands. These boats operate from Lakes Entrance in Victoria’s far East. Their fishing grounds range from relatively local, through Bass Straight to the Southern Ocean on the far side of Tasmania. Bass Straight is acknowledged as one of the roughest stretches of water in the world, so they take quite a battering.
Hopefully these photos are of some use Bakster.
Dodgy
Those are some fantastic pictures Dodgy. They show alot of details that would be very important. Thank you for doing that.
Hey Ferg-- thanks for all the work you put into posting those images. I already see some things of interest. And you mentioned blurred photos-- they look fine to me!
Btw. In another thread you mentioned working on a trawler as well. Feel free to post pics here, if you like. Or maybe you want to start your own build thread! That would be very cool…
Thanks again my Friend.
Found this small motor (which likely needs a potentiometer to reduce rpm) that might be less work than a vibrator motor.
https://nfpshop.com/product/4mm-smallest-dc-motor-12mm-length-3-7v-dc-model-nfp-d0412-3978
There are some 3 rpm gearboxes for 12-14mm 3V motors, but noise could be an issue.
Using the Ross Jackal photos, a person could use juts the one “bar” radar.
Both Erikson & Phillips made marine radar that were in 0.5m “disk” style enclosures, if a person were keen on having two radar…
For that matter the “bar” radar could be replaced with a circular disk enclosure around 1 x 0.2m to scale. No visible moving parts required at all.
Might be some teeny motors from the railroad side of things–I’ll keep looking.
Hey Capn, very interesting. The size looks great. A couple of things I see off the bat.
Once again I am using a 9volt battery for the lighting. I’d probably have to install a separate power source for that or find a voltage converter of some sort. But the other thing I noticed it says it runs in a CCW rotation. What direction do radars rotate?
Hey Dodgy!
I thought In the “Land Down Under” The fish jumped into your arms, That’s what I was told! LOL, LOL!! Hey those are beautiful Trawler photos,my friend.
Hi Capn’
Dont forget Furuno made some nice commercial grade long and short bar radars too. I had Furuno Radars and Bell(No relation to Bell aircraft) Radios.
Clockwise except for when they go anticlockwise. CW may be more common, but, we are back to being a “representation” too.
Many motors will reverse simply by wiring them “backwards” too.
Or, model one of these:
My eyes ain’t what they use to be…
That, and my sausage fingers didn’t really fit into the locomotive cab… and therfore the project took on " HILARIOUS" problems.
( just imagine building wiper arms out of 1/16th of an inch long pieces of Brass … three pieces …EACH ! PLUS THE GEAR ! )
But, it DID work!
Thanks, Capn. I may buy a few to experiment with. They are cheap enough. If the stars align I might do it. If too much work, I think punt. Thanks for the work on this and your suggestions.
Oh I hear that about the eyes. Same here.