Here are some pics of my latest project. Its a 1/72 Revell M-2A2. I got into a little snag trying to backdate the Revell kit into an early M-2, so I decided to build an A2 variant first to try to iron out some kinks.
Most of the modifications and stowage were made from scratch. The MREs are Kraftwerk carton cutouts. I took a shot with the old matchbook for size reference.
Thanks for sharing allan… looks great
your right about the MILES System, stands for Multiple Intergrated Laser Engagement System. Basicly a very expensive laser tag game. (some time I think the laser tag game was more accurate, and cost much less
The newer system can detect laser hit and from what kind of weapon its being fired from so you dont have M-16’s shooting M-1 and scoring hits When your vehilce is hit it causes that little orange light you have on the turrent to flash in strobe to indicate a kill. I’ve noticed that your model doesnt have the sensers on it?
You should be warned, I find myself finding avenues of attack to your house so I can “liberate” your Bradley. It would look great rolling out the back of one of my C-130’s
allan:
really nice work on the Bradley !
the stowage looks so great… how did u make all that stuff ?
i’d like 2 add some stowage 2 my 1/72 M1,
so any tips u could share would b welcome.
and it’s good 2 see the old matchbook again ! [:D]
Thanks for the info! I put on a band around the turret to simulate the sensors. From my references I didnt see a similar band on the hull so I didnt put any on this one.
Btw, Im dusting off several interceptor models just in case that attack comes. [:D]
Michael,
Thanks! Always great to know more Braille scale fans. Theres quite a following of the scale in our club, so the encouragement and the challenge are never in short supply.
Frosty,
Thanks! The packs, bags and roll are made from Epoxy Clay (marketed here in the Philippines by Pioneer Adhesives). The stuff is quite similar to epoxy putty except that its considerably cheaper and easier to carve. After kneading the stuff I shape them into their general forms, allow them to rest on the model surface (to simulate sag) and press on some creases using a putty applicator. After drying (takes from a few minutes to a couple of hours to fully cure) I then use an X-Acto knife and carve out more details and creases. Takes a lot of time but its a sure way to keep a bag or roll unique from the other stowage.
The concertina wire came from a fine metal mesh. I picked out one end and started unravelling the whole strand, which I then rolled into a loop.
Some of the bed rolls were made from the tin lid you find on powdered milk or coffee cans, cut into shape, and then rolled.