Work in progress shots. Next stage for the body is decals and clear coat.
Nice progress so far.
Beautiful. I have that kit? How is it going together? What blue did you use? Looks awesome!
Wonderful detailing on the engine. Are you building the 1/16th scale Mustang?
Thanks. It’s the Revell 1/12 kit, and very nice it is too. I have had the Doyusha 1/12 Countach and Corvette in my collection for years so I thought this would be a good test run, especially with the gloss finish, which in this case is a mixed result. The top surfaces of the body, the front and back are nice, but the sides ended up with an egg-shell finish. I hope that once it’s decalled and I do a clear coat these problems will be reduced. Just looking at the model now it looks quite good anyway, shiny in all the right places. I re-chromed the wheels with an auto-spray which worked out well.
The colour used is Testors Grabber blue. Next time I’ll use a proper high pressure spray gun, because spray cans seem inadequate for painting a large scale car.
Decals going on, couldn’t be happier with the result so far…
Tamiya clear coat goes on.
And this is the point where I pack the kit away in a box for a few years while I move onto something else…
WTF happened???
That really sucks!
Tamiya clear over not fully cured MM Enamel. Happens every time. I despise Tamiya clear and have not used it for a while now. It’s just hot enough so It eats decals too.
I went back to plain old MM Gloss clear enamel in either spray bomb or AB. I let it sit for a month and polish it out. To me it’s worth the wait not to have something like this happen.
G
Ok, I gave it 4 or 5 days to dry before the clear went on. I did lay the MM blue on pretty thick, so that might be part of it. I’ll see if I can sand it and do a retouch later on, I’m lucky it only occurred on some isolated areas away from the main stripes.
well, i like how this looks. the engine is awesome. it’s good they’ve added a bit more detail (normally their 1/12 kits are same as the 1/25s)
Thanks, I was happy with the engine. Although it’s hard to display with the way the hood is hinged. I hope I can save the paint job, I’ll soon see anyway.
Use Testor’s Wet Look clear over enamel, it will not attack the enamel and works better than Tamiya clear…
I thought it was Testors Enamel-
not trying to be hicky-picky- just trying to understand the various solutions offered, vies a vie, the brands vs the type of paint/clear.
Though regardless, any enamel that is thick, will take a longer time to dry; which is problematic when covered with another coat.
Anywho don’t give up on the car its looking like a fine project so far.
NOTE: This is a good example of why NOT to mix paint brands. If you use Testors paint then use Testors clear coat. While you can use a laquer primer and spray enamel over it, you generally cannot spray laquer paint over enamel. Even some enamel paints are “aggressive” and will attack other enamels. Some paints will attack the plastic, e.g. real automotive paints not made for plastic. A good primer and or barrier can protect the plastic. Also note that some paints are hazardous and can attack your lungs or poison you through your skin. If you are not sure stick with paints made for models and use the same brand of thinner, primer, paint, and clear coat on any given project.
Testors is enamel? Or laquer? Is the problem here that I sprayed clear enamel over laquer?
Testors produces enamel, acrylic, and lacquers and thinners for each. You generally CAN spray enamel over lacquer as long as the lacquer is dry, but you generally cannot spray lacquer over enamel. There are some other variations like varnishes, urethanes, and varithanes, etc. and they are not all compatible with plastic. The safest thing to do is use paints made for plastic and do not mix types of paints and use the correct thinner.