Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "FINAL REVEAL!" (9.13.15)

Hello Guys, This will be my first entry into the “Battle of Britain 75th Anniversary Group Build” being hosted by fellow modelers on YouTube - the Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa. I plan to do a second build to accompany this one- the Eduard 1/32 Messerschmitt BF109E-3. Introduction to the kit: The Box Art: The Box Contents The Box Contains 3 clear bags of light grey sprues; 5 in one bag, and 4 in each of the two other bags making a total of 13 light grey sprues. There is another small clear bag containing 3 small clear sprues. There is a 12 page black and white assembly/painting and decaling instruction booklet that includes two options of paint scheme and squadron markings, and lastly, a sheet of cartograf decals; Sprues A + B: Sprues C + D + D- NO, that’s not a mistake, but it is one by Revell of Germany!! I have two sprue D’s which are the portside upper wing sections and no Sprue E which is the starboard side upper wing section! Aaaarrrrrggggghhhh!!! I went to Revell’s website to order the missing sprue E and it can take up to 8 weeks to be delivered from Germany!!! Bloody hell!! Sprue F Sprue G Sprue Q Sprue T Sprue S (x2) Sprue H (x2) Clear Sprues I, R + U A 12 page black and white Assembly/Painting and Decaling Instruction Booklet Front Page 1 and Back Page 12 Pages 2 + 3 Pages 4 + 5 Page 6 + 7 Pages 8 + 9 Pages 10 + 11 The Decal Sheet The molded parts are very crisp and clean with zero flash apart from a couple of little areas. The parts have nice fine recessed panel lines and lots of rivet details. The clear molded parts are very clear with zero aberrations except for one side of the sliding canopy which is slightly “glazed”. The decals are excellent looking with zero carrier film beyond the decal edges. The black and white instruction booklet appears to be clear and concise, but the two paint and decal options would be better in color. The color call outs are in Revell colors only. I will make a final report when the build is complete indicating any issues that I come across. In the meantime, thanks for taking a look and I hope you enjoy following along with my build. In the meantime, if you’d like to see my “in-Box-Review” video for this kit, here is the link: https://youtu.be/SWiiFXlU6zA Let the build begin!! :slight_smile: Cheers! Martin :slight_smile:

Can you just take it back to where you got it and exchange it for a complete kit and let them deal with the wait?

In any case, I look forward to seeing this one come together.

-BD-

That’s weird. I guess it happens. Agreed, take it back. Should be a beaut…

I got one not long ago and just inventoried it and all is complete. I would take it back to the store and exchange it for a complete one. This happens once in a while. Last Christmas I ordered a Kitty Hawk F-94 from Squadron and the pe fret was missing. Squadron sent me a replacement 2 weeks later.

Hey Brandon, thanks for taking a look, much appreciated. I bought this kit from my local hobby store (LHS) in March. I called them when this came to my attention and asked if they had another in stock…they said they had, and so, I said that I’d like to come in a swop the kits, because of the missing part. The owner replied “We have a 30 day return policy, but you’re more than welcome to come in and buy the kit we have in stock and return the one you have”!!! Great customer service, NOT!! Especially when I’ve spent around $1,200.00 there in the last 16 months. They won’t be getting y business anymore and from hereon, I’ll be ordering from my nearest online distributor which is a lot cheaper and will save me money…I was just trying to support my LHS, but they seem to not want to reciprocate!

I’m going to start my second build entry for the YouTube “Battle of Britain 75th Anniversary” Group Build on Monday, and today, I did my “In-Box-Review” for it which I will be posting shortly. I will continue with this Spitfire build when the parts arrive, but, I d have my “Build Update #1” report to post…which shows how far I can get without missing parts…

Cheers,

Martin :slight_smile:

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa “Build Update #1 Well, chaps, during the last few days, I managed to get some work done on this build, but during the build, I came across another issue that prevents me from going any further; more on this as we get into this update… As always, I started off by washing the parts and letting them air-dry. I then started the assembly off by fitting the wheel well wall sections into the lower wings, followed by gluing the portside upper wing section into place. I couldn’t fit the starboard side upper wing section, because as discussed in my “In-Box-Review” it was missing from the kit and instead, there were two portside sections… Next, I assembled the halves together for the ailerons, flaps, elevators, horizontal stabilizers, wing-tips and rudder and after they were done, I assembled the halves for each exhaust stack… Next, I moved onto the undercarriage by assembling the wheel halves together followed by the wheel struts/axles and wheel doors… I then assembled a couple of air-intakes and glued them into their corresponding locations on the belly of the fuselage and beneath a wing… After that was completed, I temporarily stuck the spinner and back-plate together using putty and inserted a cocktail stick in preparation for painting. I then glued some small blisters onto the sides of the front ends of the fuselage halves… I was ready to start painting, and so I started off by airbrushing a black base-coat onto parts followed by interior green… I then airbrushed aluminum onto the propeller spinner assembly, the propeller blades, radiators and wheel struts followed by painting the spinner Sky color and the propeller blades black toned down with white… I could now make a start on building and detailing the individual sub-assemblies of the cockpit and place the two instrument panel decals into place… Following the cockpit sub-assemblies, I moved onto the fuselage side walls… This next step is where the second issue with this build became apparent. I assembled the rear wheel and then went to glue it into the portside fuselage half and was shocked to see that the tail end where the wheel was to be fitted was distorted as if it had melted due to heat!!! AAAaaaarrrggghhhhhh!!! I was bamboozled, how did this happen? I have been modelling at a table next to a large bedroom window to aid my poor eye-sight with the direct sun-light, as working at the dining table was causing me eye-strain. The average Vicat softening point of Styrene is around 97C and the melting point around 210C!! Could the 93`F sunlight have been magnified by the window enough to do this? And if so, that type of heat is enough to start a fire! But, this was the only area affected, no other parts on the table suffered and neither did the plastic table they were all sitting on? It’s a strange one?!! Anyway, I ordered a replacement portside fuselage half following the starboard side upper wing section that I ordered last week, but I have to wait 8 weeks for them to be delivered from Revell Germany… The last thing I did was to mask the tips of the propeller blades and paint the yellow tips on. I then glued the propeller assembly together permanently… This was as far as I could go, and so, I laid everything that I completed onto my table and took photos of the progress so far… I’m not going to lose any sleep over the two issues and will continue with this build when the replacement parts arrive from Revell Germany. in the mean-time, I will move onto my next build for this Sig- the Eduard 1/32 “Weekend Edition” Messerschmitt BF109E-3. Look out for my “in-Box-Review” for this kit, coming soon! In the meantime, if you’d like to see my YouTube “Build Update #1” video for this update, then here is the link for that… https://youtu.be/6WW3OHnKniQ Thanks in advance for following this build thread, leaving comments and watching the update video, much appreciated! :slight_smile: Until the next update in 8-9 weeks time, happy modelling and have fun! Cheers Martin :slight_smile:

You’ve done a stellar job, like you I await the parts from Revell of Germany. Great job!

Toshi

Looks really cool! May be a ‘jinx’ kit though, I’ve been modeling almost forty years and only had the wrong sprues like that less than half a dozen times luckily. And the only melted parts were where I set a model down in front of a small space heater with the heat turned down to try to dry the paint faster- well seems the heat wasn’t turned down nearly enough!

Hi Martin

Just wanted to let you know how helpful and appreciative it is that you take us through a build step by step. Our young builders as well as the rest of us learn SO much. I remember when my brother and I had the old British Profiles series as reference and would have to go on verbal advice from others.

Thelearning curve was slow and long NOW it is exponential keeps the kids focused and interested and their builds look great and keeps them in the "game’!!

Best wishes Martin !!

I was going to say how it’s shaping up pretty well, but after seeing that mishap with the vertical stabilizer…yeeesh! I looked back up above and saw how it was in the your inventory of the build and it was as it needs to be from the beginning…so it had to have happened some how after it came out of the box. Tough break. =[ Without another source of heat via friction from a dremel/sander or heat gun of sorts, the only other explanation might be the sun. I mean hell! You need some kind of source of heat to do that, and it had to have been localized as the rest of the fuselage is not deformed.

Stay on top of it Martin. Looking to see you get back on your feet with this one. =]

The damage to the plastic possibly looks like something very hot sat on it like a cup of coffee for example. Sometimes we do things without realizing it. At least its not an OOP kit and your replacement parts will eventually arrive. I have dealt with both ROG and Revell USA and both are excellent. The parts from Germany do take a while to arrive.

You did the right thing by not shopping anymore at that LHS. The least they could have done to accommodate a customer was to take the kit back and give you a replacement. All they had to do was to return it to the supplier for a credit or replacement but they are too lazy to do that.

Great job so far on the Spit.

Martin - My only hobby shop in town is 4th generation owners, I was once a bit scolded for not simply returning a kit with defective parts, rather just making it right myself. They said “just bring it back,” I said if I can set it right I’d rather not trouble the shop. Their response floored me, the owner said if the suppliers and manufacturers aren’t made to deal with their screw ups rather than the customers doing it, they will never be more careful with what they deliver to the folks that ultimately purchase their goods.

So, in order to hold them accountable defective kits should be returned to the shop, they in turn should feel obligated to replace the kit. Telling a loyal customer “sorry, 30 days,” is inexcusable and an insult. Did the kit develope the defects after the thirty days expired??? NOPE, the kit not only left their shop with the defects, the kit left the manufacturer with faulty bits. Hobby shops such as that don’t deserve any sort of continued customer loyalty.

Still, very nice work that you so far have accomplished, once it’s finished you’ll have a super Spit.

Patrick

Hey Brandon,

I tried to return it, but because it had passed the stores 30 day return policy they wouldn;t swop it out with a new kit that they had on their shelf. I’ve spent a lot of money with the store, and so, because of their failure in customer service that day, I;ve stopped going there and now order everything off line…which turns out to be a lot cheaper. But, I wanted to support my local hobby store as I know it;s tough for them to survive.

Anyway, I ordered a new kit on line and am back here to post my “Build Update #2”!

Cheers,

Martin [:D]

I took it back but they wouldn’t accept it because it had passed the 30 day return policy…no more going to my Local Hobby Store to support their business. I ordered a new kit off line and started back on her on Monday. I’m on here now to pst my “Build Update #2” rport!

Cheers,

Martin [:D]

Oh, man! I just saw the rear stabilizer damage. What a tough break. Hopefully the boat gets a favorable current, a tailwind and a captain eager to visit his lady in the U.S. who pushes it here as quickly as possible.

-BD-

I called the store where I got it from- HobbyTownUSA, and asked if they had another in stock and they said yes. I then told them that the one I had bought from them previously had the issues outlined above and I’d like to swop it out. Their response "You bought it more than 30 days ago, it’s gone beyond our 30-day return policy! So, after using them as my Local Hobby Store for 19 months and sepending more than a $1,000.00 there, I decided that their poor customoer service practise doesn’t warrant my money anymore. So, I ordered one, much cheaper from Hobbylinc.com so that I don’t have to wait weeks for replacement parts from Revell Germany and I can just replace the parts I remove fro this new kit with those parts when they do arrive. Anyway…I made more progess and I’m about to make a post…

Cheers [:)]

Thanks Toshi, greatly appreciated! I couldn’t wait any longer ater completing my BF109E-3, and so, I just got a new kit and will replace the parts that I take from it with those that i await arrival from Germany! New posting of progress to date coming shortly!

Cheers [:)]

Thanks Gamera! It’s was definitely a jinxed kit, no heaters involved it was 93F outside the day it happened...and I only drink bottled water, so no hot mugs of coffee or Tea left sitting on the tail. I'm guessing just a freak magnification incident where the magnified heat, through the large window I sit next to, was concentrated onto the tail area? That said, that's quite worrysome that the window can magnify the heat to a temperature great enogh to soften styrene....the Vicat softening point of the average Styrenes is around 200F and the melting point is around 430`F!! Those temperatures can start fires on other materials! Blinds closed on hot days from hereon!

Cheers,

Martin [:D]

Thanks for your kind comment BT! And, you;re welcome for the step by step build reports, i enjoy doing them and they help me fill my free-time since retiiring two years ago, along with the uilding and making videos for YouTube! If what i dod helps others, then I’m honored and happy that they serve some usefulness!

Thanks again!

Cheers,

Martin [:D]

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa “Build Update #2

Hello Chaps,

Well, after completing my Eduard 1/32 BF109E-3, I couldn’t wait another 3 to 4 weeks for replacement parts for the missing upper wing starboard side and the damaged portside fuselage half, so, I just bought myself another kit! When those parts finally arrive from Revell, Germany, I’ll have another full kit in the stash, but, I’m giving it away as a prize to a group build that I have been hosting on YouTube since May 1st and which ends on August 31st.

Anyway, that aside, continuing on from “Build Update #1” I airbrushed a clear coat onto all the parts that I had previously painted in preparation for cockpit decals and for applying a dark dirt wash and some chipping:

After finishing the cockpit decals and wiping off the excess of the dark dirt wash, I then gathered the cockpit tub parts in preparation for building the cockpit assembly:

I started the assembly by fitting the pedals and steering column sub-assembly into place, followed by fitting the seat assembly and rear bulkhead:

I then applied a matt clear coat to the cockpit assembly and the starboard side fuselage half, and when dry, I then moved onto fitting the starboard side cockpit wall section, followed by the portside wall sections around the cockpit interior assembly:

It was time to take the two parts from the new kit that I needed to complete this kit that I was working on. So, I took the starboard side upper wing section and the portside fuselage half from the kit and airbrushed a black base coat onto the areas that are visible. When that had dried, I then airbrushed a interior green onto the black base coat, and, when that was dry, I airbrushed a gloss clear coat in readiness to apply a dark dirt wash and some chipping:

I had to remove the oxygen cylinders and the radio parts from the original portside fuselage half that got damaged and glue them into this new fuselage half. After that, I applied a dark dirt wash, allowed that to dry for 30 minutes, then rubbed the excess off with Q-Tips leaving some on to give a desired effect:

After that was completed, I sealed everything in with a matt clear coat, along with the cockpit door, radiator housing and the flaps:

It was now time to assemble the cockpit assembly into the starboard side fuselage half. I used super-glue to fix it solidly and quickly:

When it was set, I temporarily taped the fuselage halves together and dry-fitted the fuselage assembly into the wing assembly to see how it fitted. It fitted well on the starboard side, but on the portside, there was a gap at the wing root to fuselage joint:

I removed the tape from the temporarily fitted assemblies and then glued the starboard side upper wing section onto the lower wing assembly, followed by gluing the two fuselage halves together and taping them until the glue had set:

When the assemblies were set, I then did a second dry-fit of the fuselage into the wing assembly, and as before, there was still a gap on the portside at the wing root to fuselage joint. I cured this by cutting a piece of sprue to a length that I could push into the fuselage assembly between the cockpit tub side panel and the portside wall section. This forced the wall section outwards enough to close the gap when checking again with a dry fit. Once happy with how it fit, I glued the piece of sprue in place with super glue. I then glued the fuselage into the wing assembly. A little filler was required on the underside where the rear area of the wing assembly joined with the fuselage assembly:

Next, I glued the belly and air intake assembly onto the underside of the nose of the aircraft:

This was followed by gluing the portside and starboard side wing tips into location. There was a small gap on the starboard side that would require some filler:

I then assembled the ailerons, the horizontal stabilizers, the elevators and finally, the rudder:

I’d now gone as far as I wanted to go for this update, and so, I laid everything out on my table to see how everything looked;

Well, that’s it for this update, and until the next one, if you’d like to watch my YouTube “Build Update #2” video for this build, here is the link:

https://youtu.be/TLyeM8M-jZU

Thanks in advance for following this build, watching the video and leaving comments, both on here and on YouTube! [:D] [Y]

Until the next update, happy modeling and have fun!! [Y]

Cheers!
Martin [:D]