Resin track lengths

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

I just bought some accurate armour resin track lengths for my m24 chaffee as the italeri rubber tracks were horrible.
the intructions though were really scetchy and i was wondering if anyone had any tips for molding the lengths.
i’m unsure if i should glue them all together into one length and then mold, or to mold them each individually.
love to hear from you. cheers.

2

Have you considered making a jig, using a straightedge and double stick tape to make manageable lengths?

Use a slow set ca glue and accelerator could help mould them around the idler and drive wheels, and help set the sag.

3

Cheers Mgartner, I mustn’t have explained my self very well.
the resin track comes in lengths of about 20 links rather than individual links. the instructions described heating the resin in hot water and then bending them round the drive sprocket and road wheels to mould them into shape.
how best to do this has left me wondering. i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this type of track?

4

I’ve got a set of them, but I haven’t tried to install them yet. My current plan is to bend them in the sections they come in and then glue them together on the vehicle. If you find a better way to do it please don’t hesitate to share.

5

cheers spamicus. do you reckon you’ll paint them first? i’m personally worried about aligning each section once it has been bent. i’m not sure if they’ll line up with the two adjacent sections. that’s why i wondered about glueing them all together first. but i’d have to paint them first that way.
i’m almost ready to do this part so i’ll let you know how i go and i’ love to hear how you go too.

6

Probably best to paint and weather them part way before mounting them. Then touch up paint and finish the weathering after they are mounted.

7

If the freak says it i believe it. i’ve already learnt that much from my short time here.

8

but more seriously, thanks a heap. i appreciate it.

9

Might be a while before I try them as they are for my easy 8 and It’s a project for the future right now. Anyway, I’d paint them after fitting them, then glue them on. I think it’ll take some care to be sure to get them lined up, but that’s what modeling is all about. Or so I’m told by someone.

10

Sure thing. I’m going to try to fit them tonight, so i’ll let you know how it all goes. i’ve dedicated the entire friday night to my modelling as i’m buggered and i can’t be bothered with anything else. TGIF

11

Padawan,

Only problem I had was closing the loop. With US tanks and not a lot of track sag, I had to glue the termination joint to one of the road wheels in order to get good grip. ( you’ll see what I mean)

Those are nice . Wait until you hit 'em with the hairdryer and they bend right around the sprockets. Takes a little adjustment, but what doesn’t.

Good luck

12

Javon Kearse builds armor?[;)]

13

I’ve used resin tracks before and the best method I have found for wrapping them around the suspension is:

  1. Assemble the tanks suspension.

  2. Assemble all the links you will need for a total run (it’s a guess at first, but don’t worry if you guess wrong. If you need more, add the sections, if you need less, just cut away what you don’t need.).

  3. Test fit the track on the tank. I usually start at the last tooth on the drive sprocket and then mark with a pencil where the first “curve” will form. I usually start with the top run, but this is not necessary.

  4. Use a R/C Model Airplanes Covering Heat Gun to heat just the section at the first curve.

  5. Quickly place the track section on the tank and hold the track in place around the curve.

  6. When the track sections have cooled (they cool pretty quickly), mark with a pencil where the next curve will be.

  7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 until you are all the way around.

Don’t fret if you get the curve wrong. Just reheat the section and go again.

One word of warning though. There is also a glove sold with the R/C supplies which will help to protect your hand while you are covering with the heat gun. It’s a good idea to have either one of these or something to protect your hand from the heat. The R/C Heat guns go up to 400 degrees F.

As far as painting them goes, I leave the tracks where I can lift them off and paint them after they have been “bent” to shape.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!

14

thanks latch66. that’ll be heaps helpful. i’m going to print that out and keep it beside me.