ive got a dio n a couple fig vignettes coming up, n im plannin on doing som reworking on them, changing poses and what not. some of the figures r resin, while some r regular plastic. the changes will range from just slight corrections like fingers gripping something, to full surgery on changing arm and leg positions.
the thing is, i havent really done much work on that kinda thing. i realize ill havta get the positions down with gluing pieces together with wire, but sculpting arms n legs (specially the baggy german smocks) seems daunting. im figuring on using milliput, n i have several sculpting tools already from othr prjects. just need some pointers on this stuff. like how to work the putty, make it stick, and when its a good time to sculpt and with which tool. could someone clue me in on this one? i don’t wanna go in without som second hand knowledge to back me up…plz help! thnx[8D]
gringe;
Reference Reference Reference. Photos, Books etc. That is the starting point. Once you know what it is “supposed to look like” you are of to a good start. A second aid is a copy of Bill Horan Model Figures Master Class, Osprey Painting Figures, World War II figures. A third aid is a sculptors’ poseable figure these are usually made out of wood or plastic and are a basic figure shape that you can bend and turn in all the directions required so that you can determine the pose of the figure properly prior to cutting any of the existing figures. Personally I use a 12" GI JOE figure from the '60s I picked up at a flea market for a dollar. It was of no use to a collector for the shape it was in. It still had all the limbs and feet and hands attached no hair and really scratched up from years of play, but it really works for me. The use of the figure is it helps when you want to “figure” out the end pose you want before you start hacking plastic or resin. The “filler” I use in the joints or cuts can be cuts from previous figure conversions or spare resin from the mold plug or even flash if only really thin shims are required I save every little off cut (you never know). You will also need a set of mini drills and a pin vice to drill into the two surfaces. I find it is easier to reinforce the cut with thin gauge wire that is superglued into the holes and bent to the shape required for the pose. I use two part plumber epoxy ribbon from LePage it comes in two colour strips to a package. You combine the two pieces (only what you need) use it sparingly it goes a long way. With the two colour pieces kneed them to a uniform colour in your hand or with a “rolling pin” I use an old hobby knife handle once this is done I press small amounts at a time into the joint or create the required clothing piece or accessory (bandoliers, empty canteen carrier etc.) by rolling it out thin on a piece of glass to layer it on and shape it like real clothing. (I use a Glass Drink Coaster I got from Bombay Gin drink set [:D] ) Start with this and if you need more info email me.
Cheers;
Gregory
wow, lots of info, thnx a lot gburdon!!! it really helps here. u covrd a lot. ill keep this post handy while im working. thnx again my friend!![:D][:D]
Matt;
My pleasure. Basically this was all regurged from the pages of several different books. If you need anything further just email. The two things I forgot to mention above. Sources for the Two Part Epoxy check Home Depot or any well stocked plumber shop. The sculptor figure can be found in any well stock arts and craft store usually around the “Life Drawing” or Oil and Watercolor Paint section. Another good book for the reference pile is and I can’t believe I forgot this one. Modelling and Painting Figures by Sheperd Paine it is a great book for all aspects of figure conversion and scratchbuilding. The best though in my opinion is Bill Horan Modelling Figures Masterclass. I think you can get the Horan book still in print on line. Unfortunately the Sheperd Paine book is “out of print” but I have in the past year bought two copies out of the United Kingdom. No I’m not greedy my car got broken into at work and the first copy was in my briefcase that was stolen with other items [bh] the worse part was I had not even had a chance to read it I had just picked it up at the post office and was all set to read it that night when some non-model building un appreciative stealing for my next fix [censored] [censored] [censored] smashs my rear passenger window and steals it. Anyway I found another in the UK the book is published by AIRLIFE Publishing in the USA it is published by Kalmbach. Check eBay or even a local used book shop. Lots of good references turn up in these spots and sometimes cheap enough to buy several. That’s it for now. Email any questions you have my reference library is at your disposal.
Cheers;
Gregory
sorry bout the break in greg, tht really sucks tht u didnt even get to read it once before someone stole it. NEways, yes, thank you very much for tht info. im goin to look into gettin some of those books and accessories. thnx a lot again!!
I use milliput extra fine white. It is nice and smooth, is easily smoothed with water. I find it is best once you’ve mixed the parts and got the milliput into roughly the right shape, to leave it about 30-45 minutes. it firms up a bit and is a little easier to work with, keeping the detail better.
One more thing Matt, I’m not sure if you’ve noticed, but that thing in front of your computer that you use to input letters, yes that’s right the keyboard, actually has quite a few more keys than you seem to have located. It’s not a cell phone, so spelling words fully shouldn’t be such a chore, and it does make your posts easier to read.
Um, thanks gunnie. If you’d like to know, that’s just a short hand. It makes typing something in a lot faster, and no one else seems to have had any problems reading my posts. I know many people, both here and elsewhere on the internet whose use the same system. In fact, nearly everyone here uses some form of shorthand when typing, simply to make it go faster. This is just a casual forum, it’s not a site dedicated to fine language and typistry. These aren’t essays we’re writing, they are just posts asking and answering questions of what is a casual hobby for most people. The shorthand is fairly easy to understand if you just follow the sound the composed letters make when verbally pronounced. For instance, ‘thanks’ sounds like thnx. Furthermore, there are some phrases that are simply abbreviated on internet sites like this one. The most commonly used phrases here would be ‘lol’ for laugh-out-loud, or laughing out loud; ‘lmao’ is taken to mean laughing my ****** off. ‘HTH’ means ‘hope it helps’
I thank you for bringing to light the fact that I don’t always spell out every word I type, but it’s part of a system that practically everyone here uses, and I do suggest that you acquaint yourself with this method, as you will encounter many, many others using it, and it will become a necessity if you wish to understand what people are trying to communicateto you here. Otherwise, you will find yourself having a very difficult time when you visit.
I also suggest that you aren’t quite as cynical in your pointing out of other peoples mistakes. It won’t win you many friendly voices here.
My intitial comment was meant fairly tongue in cheek, but you obvioulsy didn’t have the sense to take it that way.
I have no trouble understanding your post, since I’ve been using the internet for something like eight or nine years. It’s just lazyness not to use language correctly, after all, this isn’t a live chat room that requires instant replies.
Well, you give no intimation of how you’d like your comments to be taken. There was no suggestion of your post being a simple poke in the side. Instead, you came across as flat and cynical.
If you’d like to get into whether I have sense or not, we can take this elsewhere, but I’d rather we didn’t. I can only ask that the next time you wish to make that sort of statement, you add some sign that a person can recognize that it is meant with good intentions, instead of the almost arrogant style you gave it in your post
Couple of tools you might want to think about are very close at hand. I have found that an upholstery needle works well for doing creases and folds. Also some toothpics with superglu on the ends to “varnish” the working end. Thes can be shaved and sanded to make different shapes and the CA makes them hard and smooth.
I use aves apoxie sculpt and it smooths fine with water. A paintbrush moistened with water, blends and smooths the apoxie sculpt for seamless edges. It dries in a couple f hours or can be “rushed” by putting it under some lights.
Most of the big figure workers like Mike Blank, Alan Ball, etc. use some of the simplest tools. I’ve found these to be very handy and cheap.
do you know where i could fins some aves putty?? none of the hobby shops round here have it as far as i know, so is there a place where i could get it online??
BTW- thnx for the help renarts!! all advice and hints are appreciated![;)][8D]
If your local hobby shop doesn’t carry it, you can contact aves
www.avesstudio.com or 1-800-261-2837
they will have a dealer listing, or you may be able to get it from them direct.
awesome! thnx a lot renarts!![:D]