I recently used Micro Mask on a canopy and did get what appeared to be a good seal. I then primed the model with Rust-oleum sandable primer and plan on letting that settle before I begin painting. I lifted the Micro Mask and did see that a bit of primer leaked underneath the Micro Mask onto the canopy. Is there a safe and effective way of getting the primer off without damaging the canopy? And if not, in case of marking up the canopy, do any of the Clear parts buffing kits really work? I picked one up from Micro Mart a year or so ago and have never used it yet. I believe they are designed for light scratches and the sort but not for removing paint or fogging.
Suggestions?
Try either a toothpick or a piece of sprue cut into a wedge shape. I would guess that since it is primer it will stick pretty good to your canopy and will be hard to get off. As far as polishing it get some polishing sticks and then dip it in future, you’ll never even know you had an issue. Good luck with it.
[dto:]
another reason why dipping in future is a good idea…same thing happend to me,washed the canopy in windex…it all came off…dipped again and good to go.
C
Was told on another forum that denatured alcohol should remove the primer with little or no effect on the canopy. And yes, I realized I should have dipped the canopy in Future before I even attached the piece to the model. Damn my forgetting memory!
It may work but I would bet it would fog the “glass” and if you use too much it may melt it. Future may fix the fogging but won’t fix melting.
yes…careful…that happened to me once…a dip in future helped but there was still a slight foggy effect…thats also why when all possible use acrylics for canopies…they wont eat away at the plastic like enamels.
good luck
c
OK, I read and followed all the instructions on this canopy repair kit and did as follows. First I picked away as much of the primer as possible then lightly sanded with 3200 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Kit actually recommends starting with 400 grit…I thought this to be way too low for clear parts…then worked my way up slowly to 12000 grit. The key to these steps is to go back and forth in one direction with the low grit, then progress in the opposite direction for the next highest grit, etc, etc… There were five or six progressing grits leading up to 12000 grit that feels so much like silk. Next was to dampen a buffing cloth that is provided in the kit , with water, and wipe the area clean of any debris and dust from the sanding. The final step is buffing the affected area with a substance called Micro Gloss which has the consistency of Elmer’s glue. Small circular motions are good on this step…sort of like waxing a car (insert Pat Marita jokes here) I have to admit, for the first time I ever used this stuff it worked pretty well. Now don’t get me wrong, the canopy is far from perfect, but it looks far better then it did after the masking came off. Somebody with more experience would do a far better job.
Then again someone with far more experience would have:
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Waited to put the canopy on last
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Dipped the canopy in Future first.
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Both one and two, not necessarily in that order.
Yet another example of why I free-hand canopies… In the future, you might try removing any errant paint or primer with Simple Green all purpose cleaner…
And forget about priming too, BTW… Canopies (and most other non-metallic part) seldom, if ever, require priming…
I usually paint the canopies with acrylics as well, since they’ll scrape right off with a toothpick…
…and dont forget that the first coat of paint should be what ever color the inside of the canopy frame will be …it will show up on the inside of the clear plastic …then paint over that with the exterior color .
Shell
Hello;
Denatured alcohol wont fog clear canopys. I use it to clean the canopy before dipping in future.
Bill