I was wondering. Thank you for posting that.
Thanks Stikpusher and Phil_H … I will increase the drying times as you suggest. Some of the paint manufacturers imply that the first coat can be applied just minutes after using their primer but perhaps that’s just a means of increasing sales. I recently picked up a bottle of Stynylrez “Easy App Surface Primer” and it says “Let dry 5 to 8 minutes (3 minutes if dried with an artifical heat source)”. Nevertheless I will follow your advice.
In your case, Tamiya’s Surface Primer, whether it be in the spray can or a 40ml jar, is a lacquer based product. At 30 minutes, I’d rather suspect it’s still outgassing, which may be detrimental to an acrylic color/top coat.
As an autobody/paint tech I agree. While you can top coat fairly quickly, paint will take at least a day or so to fully cure even though it is dry to the touch. Enamels even more so than laquers or acrylics.
I’d give acrylics at least a full day and laquers 2 days
I can’t comment about curing times, as I build so slow my club nickname is glacier!
I have noted in my own use of a dozen types of paint, some are considerably more sensitive to handling.
In my use (your milage may vary) Hataka def. needs a good primer (badger Stynylres or Halfords rattle-can), with Tamiya & MIG being the most durable to handling.
All paints need time to cure fully, so if, as above, the coats closest to the plastic aren’t cured, they can delaminate, with Valejo Polyurethane primers being the worst (imho) for this.
Flory says allow 24 hours for Acrylic, & a week(!) for Enamels.
Have you considered Flory Models Clay based washes, these are totaly inert and don’t react to anything.
Here he applies over a unspecified satin finish, but I’m having the least issues (I can’t gloss for toffee) with Windsor & Newton Galleria Gloss & Satin acrylic varnish.
Flory Models Tutorial: http://promodeller.com/weathering-wash/
US Stockist: https://www.highaltitudehobbies.com/flory-models-products
Those are mighty fast times on that Stynylrez, not to mention weather conditions, humidity factors etc… I cook it for 30-40 minutes in the dehydrator this time of year, maybe 20 minutes in dry winter weather or let it go a few hours if air drying. And overnight air drying in humid weather. After you work with it for a while you get a feel for it.
Edit: I just shot some Stynylrez this afternoon, thinned a little with 91% ipa. You don’t get any more humid day than today around these parts, the primer was still wet after about 8 minutes air drying or so and it’s now about finishing up in the dehydrator. There is no way you were putting anything over that primer today without the heat setting. I think it will be dry when it comes out of the dehydrator by looking in there though. 30 minutes @ 105 f and about 8 minutes dry time before it went in.
For a pin wash I always try very hard to keep the wash tight into the line I am applying it to, to minimize any cleanup. I find it is very hard to apply a solvent wash and clean up afterwards without affecting the sheen, even if the color does not come off.
After taking all the advice on board I decided to do a small test on the topside of the Spitfire which I had covered in one light coat of X-22 clear gloss about two weeks ago. The pin wash flowed much better than on the underside (topped with two coats of Klear) although I’m finding that some of the panel lines in this 1/72 kit are so shallow there is very little to flow into.
After letting the pin wash dry for 5 to 10 minutes I was able to remove the excess using mineral spirits without affecting the underlying layers. The only sections that didn’t work out as well were those shallow panel lines where removing the excess in some cases removed the panel line as well. Overall I’m pleased with the result and have learned a lot in the process.
Yep. Now experiment with length of time the pin wash dries for and the level your wiping cloth/cotton bud/qtip is saturated with the mineral spirits. You can probably let the spirits half dry out before you wipe. Something to play around with at least.
I’ve watched a few Flory Models videos on YouTube but I haven’t checked out their weathering wash. Thanks for the suggestion.
Ya, not too handy for cleaning up pin washes !
Check this out, I am working on a Mig 15. The tail is painted red (Tamyia laquer paint). I also used Tamyia “Panel Line Accent Color”, which is an enamel paint. I used Testors’ enamel thinner to remove the excess enamel panel line paint and the red lacquer paint was not effected by the thinner. “Strange days have found us” (Doors).
Thank you all for your feedback and advice. I managed to complete the Spitfire so I thought I’d post a photo. There are lots of areas where I can improve but I’m pleased with the result, especially since it’s been over 40 years since I completed the last one!
I have two other kits on the go (Airfix 1:32 WW1 B Type Bus and a Mr. Hobby 1956 VW Beetle) and will put your advice to good use. I did minimal weathering on the Spitfire but the WW1 bus will see its fair share of Flanders mud.
Thanks again!
Good looking model ! Glad you worked out the weathering wash. I too did the exact same thing only i used Acrylic color coat, Laquer gloss and than turpentine to remove wash…wow it removed paint down to the plastic. I now use acrylic color coat, future gloss coat (acrylic) and Mineral spirits for cleaning the weathering wash of oils. Works a lot better.
You should be proud of that, it looks good. [Y]
High scores for perseverance.
It’s quite a shock when it happens but at least it’s a lesson you don’t forget easily. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks Greg!
I had the same experience years ago: I painted with Tamiya acrylics; a week later I gave it a coat of future, decalled two days after that; gave it another coat of future the next night; then let that dry for two more days. I had read somewhere that enamel washes were superior to others, so I made a wash using Model Master paint with Testors’ enamel thinner, which then proceeded to strip paint away. It didn’t do it everywhere: mostly, I noticed, in places where it had pooled. The paint and clear coats came off when I disturbed it with my brush trying to remove the excess.
I though it would be safe to use over an acrylic coat, but obviously this wash hadn’t read the hobby magazines. I stopped using it and went to mineral spirits, and I’ve been suspicious of any kind of enamel wash, home-made or commercial, ever since.
Congratulations on your Spitfire!
Thanks very much! I’ve completed two kits since then and have another almost done.