I’m working on a BMF aircraft model. After finish, I will need to clear coat the model for decal application and weathering. I would like to use a clear acrylic. My options seem to be Tamiya X-22 or “Future”.
What’s the experience?
You don’t use clearcoat on bmf.
My concern is having a smooth base for a considerable amount of complicated decals. It’s an airliner (cargo version) and has fancy cheat lines and pinstripes.
GM
I do believe from all the writings on the subject that is not necessary to do so. I forgot where I read where after years the foil will weather itself becoming less shiny and a bit more oxidized. Makes sense since it’s metail foil to begin with. Clear coating it may also put a damper on the true matallic effect of the foil.
I haven’t tried foiling but as example, Alclad high shine paints can be decaled and even Solvaset be used over it without any issues even though Alclad says not to use decal solutions without prior sealing.
Bumping this. Wouldn’t it make sense to bare metal as much of the model as possible before assembly, avoiding the obvious spots like wing joins. Or am I overthinking the whole thing?
Just a few suggestions regarding BMF:
- Never coat BMF with a clear coat. That will make the BMF look like a painted surface. The beauty of BMF is that it is not a painted surface.
- Decals are easy to apply to a BMF surface. Just put a few drops of dishwashing detergent into the warm water and the decals will slide easily over the BMF.
- It is important to trim the carrier film from the decal.
I also cut the larger decals into single letters. That way there is no carrier film.
- It is easy to cover the joint at the wing root, Just bend a strip of BMF in a 90 degree angle and apply it to the wing and the fuselage. The result is an invisble joint and perfectly mimics the way a real wing root joint is covered. The wing root on my B-29 looks like the real thing.
I don’t clear coat Alclad either. Decals stick great to bare metal and to Alclad, and I have never had a problem with them coming up later for either base.
Thank you, very helpful.
The leading edges of everything have de-icing boots. The trailing edges are mostly fabric covered control surfaces, or the metal flaps which are separate.
So I should be able to make major sub-assemblies like wings, stabilizers and the fuse. Foil those, assemble and use that method on the joints.
Also I get that the carrier film is very visible. Does Micro Sol stain the foil?
A challenge will be that all of the cabin windows need to be filled. However, the aircraft has a red stripe over the area, so normal putty and sanding should be sufficient.
Thanks again.
Bill
Over clean plastic or over primer? I’d prefer over plastic.
I recommend that all painted surfaces such as de-icer boots and fabric covered trailing edges be painted prior to applying BMF. It is not possible to mask BMF as masking tape will lift BMF. There is a lot that can be done with BMF to enhance the final appearance of an aircraft. Following is a main wing of my B-24J. The de-icer boots and fabric covered areas were painted prior to BMF. BMF has a natural grain and overall apperance of the wing can be improved by changing the direction of the grain. Also, try using two different colors of BMF (Chrome and Matte Aluminum). The entire wing was finished with Matt Aluminum except for the areas indicated as Chrome. I find that the Matte Aluminum has too much shine. I lightly spray it with Simple Green and wipe it dry. That reduces the shine and reduces fingerprints. . Adding rivets enhances the apperance of the final product.
Regarding Micro Sol. A year ago I finished a P-51 with BMF. For some reason, the Micro Sol darkened the foil above and below the national ensigna on the fuselage. I think that it looks good. HOWEVER, I have not been able to duplicate this effect with recent purchases of BMF. I have no idea why. I drybrushed Tamyia Smoke to weather the BMF.
Super helpful.
Yes I wondered about the boots. The decal set includes them, but I would also prefer to paint them. My control surfaces are all separate parts too.
There is the anti-glare panel on the nose. It might be a decal- I’ll have to check.
Are you asking if BMF should be applied over clean plastic or Primer? If so, the answer is clean plastic. One more thing, keep the plastic spot clean. Make sure there is no dust, hair, grit, etc. That all telegraphs through the BMF.
Yes, that was my question. Good, because I think the primer would add unwanted texture.
Since I’ve got an expert here on my hook, another question if you may. Will a transition from paint to plastic show through? My guess would be yes.
Ha, ha - an expert I am not [8-)] Just a lot of experience.
The texture of primer will show through the BMF. If a primer is necessary, such as at that nasty joint at the engine nacelles of Revell’s bombers, then it must be sanded smooth. If you you need to remove a piece of BMF you will need to remove the adhesive before applying new BMF. Use rubbing alcohol to remove Matte Aluminum adhesive and use Simple Green to remove Chrome adhesive. Be careful, the alcohol may soften painted surfaces.
If you need to apply BMF over the edge of a painted surface you will need to sand the paint to a smooth taper.
What are you using to burnish your BMF? The absolute best burnishing tools are paper stumps (burnishing sticks) available at craft stores. They are perfect for smothing and removing that funny pebble texture of BMF. They are soft so you can press really hard to produce a super smooth finish.
I also use a flexible strip of plastic to guide my Xacto knife when trimming BMF aroung curved surfaces. I am using my old lettering guide from High School.
I also use a rivet tool from RB Productions to make rivets. It works great on 1/48 scale models.
Last but not least, I use a piece of 0000 steel wool to enhance the grain of the BMF. Just rub it very lightly (do not press hard) over the foil. A single pass only.
And this makes the tedious task of BMF much easier.
I found some q-tips that had tapered tips that tapered to a point. These seemed to work pretty well for burnishing BMF. It was especially nice on the stuff I ‘engine turned’ to use on the cowl of my Spirit of St. Louis.
I’ll have to borrow a stump from my wife’s craft room and see how that works.
Nice work, there. I like the steel wool idea. I’ll steal it! [:P]
Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
Thanks for sharing that! New ideas all the time here! Never thought of it. I just use them for cleanup. Great advice!
Mmmmm. Whiskey
Not just any whiskey. Burbon Whiskey [:D]
Having spent a small inheritance on eight sheets of Matte Aluminum, I’ve realized that I also need contrasting metal. I just ordered two sheets of Chrome.
The subject at hand.
Makers Mark man myself. Keeping it simple.
Love those old DC-s. I have a 144 -4, -6, and of course that 1/72 -4 in my stash. But I am an Alclad fan.
GMorrison, I’ll be following any thread on your build.