Realistic looking tank tracks

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Tank models are my favorite subject of modeling. On some real tanks I have noticed how the tracks tend to “sag”. My question is cna you do something to make rubber tank tracks sag like the real thing on tanks? Any tips would be helpful.

2

Try this:

/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=sagging%20tank%20tracks&f=&u=

then try this:

/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=painting%20tank%20tracks&f=&u=

3

Thanks for the websites. I am sure they will help a lot.

4

Modelfreaks: Glad to have you over here. Just don’t make the oft-repeated mistake of having sagging tracks on Sherman and Sherman variants. They had very taught tracks. Some other US armor had the same too – I don’t know which lines.

I posted this question HERE

5

I recently tried something new (for me anyway).I used two-part,5 minute epoxy to sag the tracks on a Panther G.It worked awesome.I applied the epoxy to the top of the wheels then balled up pieces of paper towels and shoved them between the tracks and the bottom of the upper hull to hold the tracks in place.I couldn’t have asked for better results.The tracks and wheels were painted prior to this and it’s still holding strong.I thought that would be a problem,but so far it isn’t.

6

I have seen two tricks. First is to tie a string from the bottom track to the top to pull it down. Second is to use pieces of black painted sprues glued under the sponsons at the points you want the sag. HTH

Mark

7

lol I just noticed my post there, years ago, stating that I would never justify buying fruils…you should see my modelling closet now [:p]

As for sagging rubber band tracks, that’s really kind of a difficult thing to do, especially if its on german and other vehicles that have return rollers. If they do not, and the track just hangs, you can glue it to the top of the road wheels. However, for vehicles that have return rollers, there are two methods that I’ve read about, and both seem to make sense:

NOTE, either of the two below methods work BEST if you do this part BEFORE gluing the two hull halves together. Thus put on all the road and drive wheels, but do not glue the hull top, so you give yourself space to work.

  1. One method is that you take sowing thread, thin and black, or you can even use very very fine fishing wire. Tie the wire in a loop around a gap in the tracks, and around the roadwheel suspension that is directly between it. Tension it and tie it off. Honestly, this is a difficult way to do it, and IMO, I’d go with the second method;

  2. Use pins to hold the track in place. You want to use very fine sewing pins. Drill holes into the sides of the hull, approximately where the trough of the track sag (the trough is the lower part of the U curve of the track sag) will be. Put together the vinyl tracks and put them onto the wheels. Insert the pins from the INSIDE of the hull and push them through outwards on the OUTSIDE of the hull. Use a drop of CA (super) glue to hold it in place. Just paint the pin in flat black, and then paint and weather it along with the rest of the track.

Hope this makes sense. I tried the second method on a T-72, and it worked fine, it just takes some time to test all the position of the pins, and take your time. If it doesn’t make sense, let me know, and I can try to draw a diagram, since explaining it in words is kind of difficult.

8

Thanks for the tips on Shermans. I’ll keep that in mind.

9

I’ll have to test those out some time. Thanks.

10

Thanks, the epoxy sounds like it should work well.

11

I’ve heard about using strings before but I have never heard of using sprues. Thanks for the help.

12

I used the wire method on my 1:72 Sturer Emil to give some form of track sag, so evident in the photos of the real machine.

One thing I would recommend is to run the steel wire through the whole width chassis to keep the wire from bending up from the pressure of the track trying to “straighten” or to attach some scrap sprue directly under and on each inside hull side to allow CA or 2 part epoxy glue more hold on the wire by increasing the surface the wire rests upon.

cheers

Mike

13

Here is a method that I’ve been using since the 70’s, I learned from Shep Payne:

The easiest way is to drill from the OUTSIDE after assembly. This allows you to pinpoint the amount of sag:

Use steel wire Tailoring pins. Make sure the diameter of the drill is not too large. The pins should pres fit thru your drilled holes:

Once finished, the pins are virtually invisible:

Hope this helps

Steve