Has anyone used this? I used it years ago when I was originally modeling, only because I couldn’t find the “good” toxic stuff. At the time, it didn’t seem to bond as well. Has that changed? I distincly remember it smelling like oranges, as opposed to the toxic smell of the toxic glue (go figure).
Anyway, I was curious if anyone’s used this and what the results would be?
i really don’t like the stuff, takes for ever for the stuff to set and dry, it gets everywhere, and the little opening dries up alot and when you try to sqeeze out the glue, it sometimes gushes out every where from the pressure. so i only use liquid cement or super glue. so i would say don’t waste you money.
Mate,
The very best liquid glue to use used to be the old Humbrol Liquid Poly. It’s main constituent was 1:1:1 Trichoroethane - a substance that is now banned in Oz. The stuff had a viscosity lower than water (the best capillary action I’ve ever seen), would weld any type of polystyrene in the blink of an eye, flashed off very quickly, and cleaned brushes better than anything I’ve ever come across.
But it’s been replaced with a non toxic variant - which isn’t quite as good.
I’d try Plastruct Bondene or Tenax - some types can weld perspex (Humbrol Liquid Poly wouldn’t touch it) and are fantastic for creating fast, permanent, strong bonds on styrene.
Forget the unwieldy bottle with the tube applicator - it’s just too hard to use.
I agree with the others. When they went to the “Non-Sniff” formula it went to junk. I can still see those old Testors tubes from many moons ago, but it’s not the same now.
I use Tenax for joints where I can let it hop into a seam or Zap cyanoacrylate when I can’t use Tenax. I’ve also heard that Ambroid is very good but I’ve never used it.
Maybe I am the odd ball but it seems to work for me. I use just a little at a time and it seems to stick pretty. I do let it sit overnight and it seems to stick pretty good. I bought the blue tube, since I do have three year-old son that like to help daddy.
David
HEY,
First i would like to say that in my experience, the blue tube tends to dry slow, dry weak, and it just doesnt have the effect of the good stuff. The only reason i even got it was because when i was in the hospital, they let me bring in my model stuff as long as i used the non-toxic glue and no spray paint. Understandable considering i was in ICU. But i have found that the testors liquid cement works nice. It also has a metal needle that the glue comes out of so its easy to fit in tight places.
Randy
I haven’t written in a long while, but I couldn’t pass up this thread.
Regarding Ambroid and Tenax (I think): They contain methylene chloride as the active ingredient. This compound evaporates rapidly, and as a result, the potential for overexposure via inhalation is pretty high. The reason is that methylene chloride (also called dichloromethane) has been implicated as a known animal carcinogen (cancer causer) within the last few years, and because of that, recommended exposure levels have also been dropping. In many industries, substitutes are being found for methylene chloride, and in some cases facilities are completely restricting any materials containing methylene chloride altogether.
When using glues containing this stuff, it is imperative to have good ventilation, and keep the cap on when not in use. Use only minimal amounts. Personally, I would consider substituting Testor’s liquid cement (contains MEK) for products containing methylene chloride.
Hope this helps someone.
Gip Winecoff
All I can say is, man, Chocolate is toxic but man it tastes darn good!!!
I just picked up some of Microscales ‘non-toxic’ cement. Haven’t had a chance to try it, but it’s a liquid, just like Tenax or Tamiya’s.
BTW–Gip, does Tamiya’s cement contain MEK or methyline chloride? I can’t seem to read the Japanese on the bottle to tell for myself…'course MEK has it’s own list of side-effects, too.
Thanks,
Dan
Hi, Dan
As far as Tamiya cement contents, I honestly don’t know–yet. I will try to find out and post that info here.
You’re right. MEK is indeed potentially toxic, but observed adverse effect levels and therefore allowable exposures are several orders of magnitude greater than dichloromethane. In other words, it takes a lot more MEK to have a negative impact on the body than does MC. Moreover, MEK is not regulated as, nor is it considered a suspect carcinogen.
RustyFord,
Just don’t put Ambroid on your chocolate!! LOL
Gip Winecoff
I have used the non-tixoc cement one time and in the trash it went after I had built one kit .The glue crystalized and the kit came apart.Never again would I use that stuff.Now I use the testor liquid or tube glue also zap a gap,great plains and elmers.Digger.
hmmm… I just looked at my tube of Testor’s liquid cement and all I could find was that it caused cancer and birth defects in mice in California (seriously)… not sure if that had something to do with the dry climate or not…
I have been using testors liquid for a short bit now and like it because of the very quick set time, but still being malleable enough to slooooowly adjust the fit. Word to the wise if after the first few times you use it, it doesn’t seem to come of of the narrow tip, dont cut the tube. Try pushing the tube against something while applying constant pressure.
The first bottle I had, I cut the tube only to have it over coat the piece I was going to cement and thereby rendering it useless. I found that too much of the stuff tends to soften/melt the plastic… (and it doesnt take a whole lot to be too much.)
But back to the subject, I found back in the day when dad bought my cement for me… the non-toxic stuff smelled like oranges and seemed to crystallize really bad. I would prefer spending decent money to up my ventillation to using it again…
Although I remember this one brand that smelled of lemons… ::cut to dream sequence::
the non-toxic glue is still just a tube of smelly crap which doesnt work. I perfer the model master glue with the needle applicator.
As an old guy returning to my teenage years, I have been pleasantly surprised by Tamiya’s Limonene Cement. It smells good, and the slow-ish drying time is certainly better for me than the styrene tube cement I was using in the 1950s. It gives me enough time to make sure all the contact points are covered, and allows repositioning of parts for several minutes if necessary. I’ve even used it to soften “dried” parts that need to be repositioned. It seems safe in case of spillage. I managed to dump a third of a bottle on our dining room table, which is beautifully finished walnut. I cleaned it up as fast as I could, but I was amazed that the finish on the table wasn’t harmed in the slightest.
This will probably get a heads up fo a weird reason.
Knight, I have used the NON - TOXIC version for stuff. Funny thing though. Have you ever seen instructions that say " apply cement to both surfaces and then join together" ?
I tried that once with the stuff.Put it on with a toothpick( which I rarely use ) and spread it down the joints( both sides) Brought it together,and clamped it. Now fifty five years later it is still holding.No crystalization or weakness evident.This is one R.C.d hull that has a strange discoloration in a joint where the stuff was used.
Never has leaked or even cracked.But,the stuff was so stringy after about a half tube of use I threw the rest away and went back to my favorite liquid. I only use the tube style in the black Bottle now with the metal tube applicator for keel glueing.
Still the best for a good seal. Glue, Clamp,and let sit for a day or two. Fill with water after filling openings with plugs and let stand.
If it leaks dry the area and let the glue run from the nozzle and puddle in the area . It will seal excellently. I imagine that’s why Testors went into recievership and wound up a Rust-Oleum LIMITED selection paint and glue company.They’re still paying for all the bills generated when they tried to change stuff to make the Environmentalists Happy.
I could go back to Wood and usee good old fashioned Horse hoof Glue I guess.
I’ve been a satisfied user of Testors’ Non-Toxic Liquid Cement in the triangular plastic bottle, with a blue label, since I tried it in the 1980s. Like the blue label tube glue, it says it’s not toxic, but it is flammable. Neat trick, that. And has the fruity smel others have mentioned. Maybe it’s polymerized ethyl alcohol?
Whatever it is, I’ve built over 100 kits with it, never had problems with joints failing, or the tube version crystallizing or becoming stringy and ineffective. I did recently build a 1/72 kit just with the truce version, to double check. It worked fine. See what I’ve built, search “Flickr Bill Abbott non-toxic”. The 1/144 Minicraft Pan Am Boeing 377, American Airlines MD-80 and CPAir DC-3.show joint quality, with polished Metalizer finishes. Lots of 1/72 planes, some 1/48. And 1/24, 1/32 and 1/43 cars, old kits and new.
“Oooh! De mummy walks!”
I use store bought laquer thinner in a testors paint jar for 90% of what I build.
A quart lasts forever and cleans all the tools up perfectly. Never any problems.
Normaly, I would say something like…
" I have socks older than this thread ". But, I dont.
I have found that the “non- toxic” stuff doesn’t work for me. It doesnt cure properly, and leaves a weak bond.
( plus, the lemon peels they add to keep you from sniffing it , I find offensive to my nose, and it screws up my sense of taste… no I dont eat it …)
Tenex works for me.