I had used the Testors’ putty with alcohol with no problem. I will try the acetone method and let you know later. Another tip I read in FSM was using the white correction tape in a dispenser for fixing typos. It works fine if you are careful.
I use the same technique described by Swanny. I just go one step further by putting masking tape back on beside the seam prior to sanding. This helps protect the surrounding area from any sanding damage. It decreases the damage to panel lines and makes it easy to rescribe any sanded away detail. I even use this technique inside of intakes and other hard to reach areas. This is where a good set of needle nose come in handy.
I use Elmer’s Wood Putty to fill everything. It goes on pretty good and it sands quite easily. I think it’s easier than squadron. It’s a tad bit thinner than Squadron putty, also.
Ken
Does wood putty shrink, racingmaniac? How does it compare in that respect to Squadron putty?
Dan F
Hey, Swanny! I just did my first credible puttying last night following your instructions and it worked great! (Though i used alcohol instead of acetone…) the masking tape really helps! Thanks again!
Can you still remove excess putty after it has dried with nail polish remover etc.? I just applied some putty last night and was planning on sanding it today, can I still remove the access withough sanding?
That link is a gold mine. Thanks for “clueing” me in. It is funny that the same techniques we use to put putty on plastic models is the same as the Air Force teaches mechanics to apply sealant onto multi-million dollar aircraft. Guess even some things are to basic to change. You might think the Air Force would have some thousand dollar sealant gun, well ok they do but we like the tape and follow the lines much better. As you might expect it is much faster also. Great tip on the nail pollish remover, we don’t get to use this one on planes. [:D]