This is my latest project, a 1/48 He-111. I got it for $20 at a model show. I am also adding some Eduard PE for the cockpit. Most of the construction is done, just have to put the cockpit in and start the painting process. Most of it fit reasonably well- the usual gaps in the wing roots/nacelle regions and deep defects in the plastic where the sprues attached to the fuselage. The instructions recommend a “dark gray” for the bottom surfaces- it did fly at night, but I will paint this one with the usual light blue. The dark paint was used as a “dark-wash”, applied with brushes/brooms and was water soluble. I want to be able to see the stencils and the markings, which would have largely been painted over with the dark wash.
Wow, that pit looks great!! So this will be the typical 65/70/71 splinter camo?? Can’t wait to see how it turns out. Kinda got bit by the 111 bug when I saw this kit built up at a friends house with the cowlings off and some resin engines in there!!
You’re bang on- I’ll follow that scheme, although I’ll use RLM 75 for the blue- I believe that colour was used later in the war. It would have been nice to add some resin engines. I hope to also cut out the pilots hatch on the canopy to allow a better view of the cockpit- I just have to figure out how to do it safely. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Well I cut the sliding glass out of the canopy of my current Hs129 build and it came out nicely I think…
I just drilled a hole close to each of the corners. The using fermis’ thread technique, I threaded a piece of doubled up nylon thread through one of the holes and proceded to “saw” my way to the next hole using the panel line as a guide. When I was finished I cleaned it up with a #11 blade and there it was. And no the cloudiness in that pic wasnt caused in the process.
Jester: That looks great! What size of nylon thread did you use? Did you place the canopy in some sort of vice to hold it? Or did you use a “wand” like that used for dental floss?
Good lookin’ He 111 you’ve got there. I’ve just started the regular kit (not the pro kit), and am at about the same point you are, but haven’t attached the wings just yet, I don’t like the way the trailing root looks, I thought it was a much smoother curve at the rear root, not as sharp an angle as this kit has, to me this is the plane with the sexxiest wing of all and it’s due to that smooth curve at the root, not your fault just a bad kit design, so I have to figure how to correct that. I do however like your cockpit detail, I’m not doing it open so not so much time spent in there on my part. Have you decided if you are going to mount the V-1 or not, I keep going back and forth on that one myself.
I see what you mean about the wing root. I too love the shape of the wing. I’m going to mount the V-1. I put the olive green camo on the upper surfaces this morning, unfortunately had a minor leak around the mask that I will have to fix tonight. I think I will complete the V-1 entirely before commencing on the plane. At least there will be no weathering on the V-1! I’ll post a pic in a couple of days when I’m done. I’m a little anxious about cutting a panel out of the canopy, but it should look great.
Hey Rob, I didnt use any type of vise I just held it with my fingers. The thread was just normal nylon sewing thread that I picked up at Krogers here where I live. Not sure if you need it to be salvagable or not but the inner piece on mine was destroyed in the process and will be replaced with some thin acetate. You do have to take your time cause if you try to go to fast the thread will try to wander instead of following the panel line. HTH!!
I finished the V-1 -which was a small project in itself. Had major issues with the decals- one fragmented to pieces. I used the microscale decal film which worked perfectly. It still took quite awhile to do the decalling, but I was happy with it in the end. Now onto cementing in the cockpit, masking the glass parts, cementing on the canopy, then painting.
Nice V-1! If the He-111 comes out half as nice youll have a fantastic build! I couldnt help notice the price tag on your thinner bottle…yikes! I primarily use Tamiy paints and use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to thin them and get beautiful results. I get mine for the best price…free (from work) but I think a 16oz. bottle is under 3 bucks.
Len: I too use isopropyl alcohol. I bought that thinner about a year ago to see if there was a difference- and I didn’t see any. I also bought on the weekend the MM clear gloss acrylic to compare to Future. I always have trouble with Future- it seems to go on pebbly have the time. I had no problems with the MM gloss- which I may stick with.
I also bought on the weekend the MM clear gloss acrylic to compare to Future. I always have trouble with Future- it seems to go on pebbly have the time. I had no problems with the MM gloss- which I may stick with.
Rob
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MM rattle can, correct? I had trouble with Future doing the same thing and found out it was a pressure thing. I use 15-20 psi for everything and it doesnt happen anymore. I use Testors Dullcote rattle cans…tried the stuff for the airbrush but never seems to work right for me.
I almost bought that Tamiya thinner to test it myself but I cracked open the bottle at the store and gave it a sniff…smelled just like alcohol to me…[:D]
