I read some reference to this on the HS thread and wanted to ask here. Sorry if some of you guys are seeing this again.
Is it not a good idea to prime before using buffing MM metalizers for a NMF aircraft? I was planning to do this but have read that it could dull the metalizer finish. Apparently, one can spray a gloos primer and it will be ok.
How does this work?
Also, what about using putty as opposed to CA? I normally only use putty, but have read that it’s textures may show thru. CA will not.
I have no idea. I never used primer with metalizer. Just sealed it with the sealer. In my opinion, metalizer may disolve primer. Metalizers are laquers. I haven’t seen laquer primers, may Dupli-color auto primer. But I wouldn’t risk it on a good model. I;ve have insidents using testors primer then Krylon color then the plastic melting slightly getting a elephant skin look.
Not too sure about priming for MM Metalizers, not available here.
But on average I would say you can’t go too wrong with a gloss black undercoat.
As for the putty it really depends on the putty and how much you are using, I would not recommend to use CA as a gap-filler as it dries rock-hard and it is very hard to remove any excess without obliverating the surrounding details.
I got a general rule the putty/glue should dry to a similar hardness and texture as the Kit I am working on.
You might need to try a few puttys and different types too till you find one that suits you.
I used MM’s buffable Aluminum with no primer and it came out fine. Actually, the first coat showed some flaws (errant scribing marks and a bad wing filler joint (used squadron green on that BTW), so I just filled and wet sanded the the flaws and resprayed. Only problem is that you have to respray the entire area or it will show where you just “spot” sprayed it.
I think I read somewhere where all Alclad colors require a primer of some sort, and some of those need to be a gloss black. I’ll try to find the thread where I read that.
Stinger, I sparayed a piece of plastic about a month ago and buffed half of it to a high sheen. I left the other half unbuffed. Two nights ago I sprayed some of both halves with Future and let it dry a few hours. The unbuffed half seemed to change slighly and look a bit more rough. The buffed half however seemed to have only got a bit more glossy. I then toke two pieces of tape, one covering the sealed and unsealed side of the unbuffed paint and the other covering the sealed and unsealed side of the buffed paint. I pushed them down good. As expected, the paint on the unsealed sides came off onto the tape. Not all mind you, just enough to show on the tape. On the Future sides however, there was none on the tape whatsoever.
I’m planning to try this same test again using the Metalizer sealer and see what happens. But I can tell you that, right now, I’m planning to use Future on top of the Metelizer and then after it has complelty dried, mask off sections I need as normal. According to my test, I shouldn’t have a problem.
Oh, I’d also like to add that no primer of any kind was used. In fact, the plastic model parts I used were in no way prepared before my tests.
I haven’t yet decided myself whether to stay with MM’s metalizers or switch to Alclad. I think I will try the MM’s once more and use Future as the sealer. MM’s look great when freshly sprayed, but they can’t handle any handling, so to speak, especially the buffables.
I am so tempted though, to try the bottle of Alclad that I spent so much money on, and have heard such good things about. if I do try the Alclad, I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Just a quick question. Has anyone tried using a polyurethane car wax to seal MM metalizers? I was thinking about this the other day and my give it a try.