Primer??????

What kind of primer does everyone use??? I use a sandable aautomotive primer i by from Wally world… is this ok??? what do you use???

Hi Ron,
If it works, its ok! :slight_smile:

I use Dupli-Color automotive sandable primer (#1692 - Gray Hot Rod Primer) which has worked great for me. I also have some no-name stuff called Weekend spray paint. On the can it just says fast drying interior/exterior. I’ve used that too with no problems. As long as you test it before-hand to check compatibility, like I said before, if it works, its ok.

Ray

use steel wool to “sand”, then use like gloss blakc for nmf. no commnet

I have just recently started using Alclad Gray Primer and Microfiller. I REALLY like it. It is easy to apply – it’s a lacquer.

It filles those pesky VERY small sanding lines you sometimes get. And everthing sticks to it really well.

I get it from Squardon.com

They also make a gloss black primer.

I use Duplicolor sandable auto primer. You just need to remember it is laquer, and should apply it in light coats so you don’t craze the plastic. Never had any problems with it.
Lee

I use Dupont , Fill’ and sand, is very smooth after you applied it, and if you use a 600 sand paper, is even better, very smooth finish

cheers

I recently had a bad experience with Duplicolor, but I think it was more related to the plastic than the primer. I’ve used Plastikote as well and lots of people swear by it. I also recently used some Mr. Surfacer 1000 as a primer. It worked very well and filled in lots of minor scratches just as Naplak describes above.

M.

I’ve been using Tamiya’s “Super Surfacer” primer.
Works great, no problems!

I use Krylon gray primer,and I’ve use the flat white primer as well. I haven’t had any problems with either one. Cheap, too. Got mine at Wally-world. -Ed

If my model is all injection molded plastic, I usually don’t prime it. If it has resin parts, or if I’ve used much putty or superglue filler, then I sometimes prime the whole thing, and sometimes just the filled areas.

I don’t prime injected molded plastic UNLESS I’m going to paint it white, yellow, or something like that (such as a trainer airplane). Then I’ll use a light gray (lighter than the plastic’s color). By giving the white, yellow or whatever a lighter shade to cover, it doesnt need to go on as thick or in as many coats. Also I make sure and use a FLAT gray so there’s some “teeth” for the final color to adhere too.

I would like to know if priming an airplane model is as necessary as priming a car model? I have a Minicraft model of a Catalina PBY-5A I would like to build.
Aleady washed in anticipation of the several color’s of paint that are
recommended. Also, since I’m painting with Testor’s enamel or Model Master’s enamel, which would be the best primer to use. I agree with the above that Krylon is cheap, but is it appropriate for enamel? Also want to know if you can use enamel paint over a laquer primer. Thanks very much for the help.

I’ve grown quite accostomed to Armory Primer, available in white, grey, or black. It’s mainly used by miniature painters, especially metal ones. I just like to have a completely uniform surface before shooting the actual model. Black primer is great for models that need a darker base color, such as most tanks and a few planes, while works well on brighter colors.

In answer to your question, mannyhern, I’ve used laquer primers and painted over them with enamels with no problem. Just don’t reverse it, or the results will be disastrous! As to whether priming cars over A/C is more important, it’s totally in the discretion of the modeler.

demono69

I guess technically priming an airplane wouldn’t be as necessary as priming a car model because one of the reasons for priming is to locate ‘trouble areas’ and surface irregularities that will affect the look of the glossy paint job. If you’re painting a ‘warbird’ in flat camo colors it’s probably not as imperative but if you’re doing something with, say, an alclad finish that you want to replicate polished aluminum or metal panels you may want to prime first to help smooth out the surface.
One other reason for priming is to give the paint something to bite into and helps it stick better. As long as you wash the model off real good before painting and rough up the surface a bit with some sandpaper or something you could probably get away without priming. Depending on the type of paint you use though, sometimes you need a primer/sealer to keep the plastic from crazing. That’s the main reason that I always prime. I use a lot of automotive type paints and I don’t want to have any nasty surprises. :slight_smile:

Ray

The best primer is none at all! If it isn’t going to be seen on the model, don’t bother to use it! It just wastes money that can be spent elsewhere!

Should I prime if I’m going to brush-paint a model.

I would say more so. The brush will “push” and “pull” paint along the surface. As was said before, the primer gives it some “tooth” so it will make it easier for the paint to adhere.

Mike

Thanks very much to heylonghair and demono69 for their insightful answers to my question as to whether to prime an airplane model. Since I will mostly paint by brush, I think I will prime. Thanks again.

Krylon sandable primer in white and grey as required. Never knew before how much of a difference primer could make, especially with those faint little sanding marks!

What I meant to ask was if I should prime if I’m brush-painting Polly Scale or Tamiya acrylics?