At 67 I am starting again on my childhoods passion. So what is your ritual when starting a new kit? I remember a ivory soap bath with two clean water dunks for rinses. Optional or necessary?
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In my 55+ years of building models, I’ll call that optional. If any cleaning of mold release agent is necessary, it’s usually pretty obvious. In those cases I’ll use something like Polly S Plastic Prep, which is now unfortunately long out of production. But there are similar such products available.
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I don’t wash models either,except for any resin pieces,I do put down a non-acrylic primer such as Tamiya or Mr Surfacer 1200
I have had no adhesion problems.
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A wash isn’t as necessary as it was when we were kids, SC. Back then, mold release agents were common. You can still do it, of course; it doesn’t hurt. If you build resin models, you’re more likely to find mold release agents used.
I would use something with a de-greaser, though. I don’t know that Ivory Soap has de-greasing agents. Dishwashing liquid with de-greasers is good. I use SuperClean, an automotive de-greaser.
Some will wipe down their model with a weak isopropyl solution before painting. I don’t, but that’s my preference.
Most will prime pieces before applying finish colors. I do this. Some don’t. Again-preference, no right or wrong. The purpose of priming is to improve paint adhesion. Priming can also serve to reveal flaws that you want to fix before you apply your finish colors.
After priming and fixing flaws as necessary, then I apply my finish colors.
Hope that helps!
Best regards,
Brad
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At the beginning of my setups, I didn’t wash anything (30 years ago), nowadays not much has changed, I wash when I remember, that is, it’s random for me. When I wash, I use water, detergent, and a brush. When I finish the assembly and prepare for painting, I use an electrostatic brush to remove plastic shavings and dirt and apply primer; in my case, I use Ammo’s black primer.
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The first thing I do is read the instructions. This will determine my planning for the build.
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There is mold release agent all over the sprues of my new tool Airfix 1/72 F4F Wildcat. I gave those a good bath in warm water and dawn dish detergent. Just make sure you give them a good rinse as dish soap does not provide good paint adhesion either 
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That’s interesting,I never had that,they feel greasy to the touch? if that’s the case,I would wash them,but I have never had that.
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I did not do further investigation beyond what my eyes told me. I saw a visible substance on some areas of the parts that appear to be a very light weight oil. It’s really the first time I have noticed this on any kit. After the dish soap bath, it was not there any longer. It was a new kit in a sealed bag so I am ruling out 3rd party contamination.
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The greasiest IM plastic kit I’ve built was the IT-28 Soviet Bridgelayer from ICM. I had to submerge the entire sprues of parts in denatured alcohol for a soak then agitate until dissolved clean.
A true classic
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What is this electrostatic brush you speak of? That seems like a handy cleanup tool.
@Southern_comfort
You bring back memories when I first started. The advice online and in magazines was to always wash all plastic parts in soapy water to remove “solvents”. I don’t do that anymore. There’s no need.
Instead, I start by making sure all pieces are there and planning out the build in my head. I actually study the assembly guide and parts on the spruce before I start any assembly. I try to anticipate potential problems and difficult areas. But most IMPORTANTLY, I am looking for an assembly sequence that makes the most sense for a smooth build. Therefore, I almost always never follow the assembly sequence from the manufacturer. This comes with experience.
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Tamiya make this one.
I’ve had one for years- a very handy product.
I have a Tamiya one identical to Karl187’s. the Jury is still out on it’s effectiveness.
My usual set-up is to immerse the sprues in a bowl of a mild soap detergent in luke warm water. I use a soft kiddies toothbrush were necessary. Re-immersend leave to soak overnight out of direct sunlight or heat. Rinse the sprues in clear water and place them between two tablecloths until dry. The same technique is used for resin bits as well. For metallic pieces, aftermarket, etc, I use for the flat panels a fibreglass pen and/or as stated by others on here, a de-mineralise spirit. Happy return to the hobby.
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Thanks for that. I find it hard to sometimes overcome static cling from seam removal. Another tool to put on the list.
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